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Jan 23rd, 2013
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Lund LX220 adding battery #13637762 07/21/20 12:24 AM
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TXjoe Offline OP
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Hi, I have a 2019 Lund that came with a 27m-xhd cranking battery only. It had an empty spot next to it, so I got a 27 deep cycle with the intent of running accessories and the trolling motor off of it. It has a single switch with 4 posts on each side, accessories are wired along with the cranking, and there are pre-wired cables to go to a trolling plug up front. There's also a 5amp clean power cable connected directly to the cranking battery... not sure where that goes.

So, I have some technical skills, just not sure of my options here. Should I hook the new DeepCycle battery up to two posts on the switch and move the accessory cable there? Should I get another switch for the other battery? Should I link the batteries? ...should I call somebody? smile

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!

Attached Files 2020-07-15 17.26.39.jpg2020-07-18 11.50.49.jpg
Re: Lund LX220 adding battery [Re: TXjoe] #13638109 07/21/20 12:08 PM
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If it were me, I'd run accessories off the start battery and run trolling motor directly off deep cycle battery. Would not go through switch.


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Re: Lund LX220 adding battery [Re: TXjoe] #13638170 07/21/20 12:54 PM
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TXjoe Offline OP
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I appreciate that, and it definitely seems like that's how it's intended. I only started looking into running accessories on the deep cycle for nav and radio while trolling. No biggie? Thanks again.

Re: Lund LX220 adding battery [Re: TXjoe] #13642030 07/23/20 11:13 PM
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If you try to run anything except the trolling motor off the trolling motor battery, you are likely to get electrical interference, especially if you are running any kind of fish finder. Run everything off the cranking battery except the trolling motor.

Wayne


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Re: Lund LX220 adding battery [Re: lurenthewind] #13642225 07/24/20 03:03 AM
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TXjoe Offline OP
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Alright, deal. I appreciate the advice - it makes sense. Thanks guys.

Re: Lund LX220 adding battery [Re: TXjoe] #13642303 07/24/20 07:26 AM
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That "switch" looks to be one of many available battery cut-off switch models that typically allow the option of having a second starting battery as a back-up.

Those "4 posts on each side" appear to be bus bars where each of the posts in the group are electrically connected as they're all connected to a metal bar. I can't tell for sure, and you didn't say. You would never hook a battery up to those if that's a bus bar as you would be putting battery voltage on whatever is already there. One of the bus bars may be a common Ground for everything as many battery switches only turn the + lead on or off.

If you do decide to connect something to those posts, be sure you understand what you've got electrically before you connect a battery - the wrong move could blow up a battery, and that's a bad week. I agree with the others. Run the boat just like it is, unchanged - except that the new battery will be dedicated to the trolling motor only. As such, that battery should have the cables for the TM connected, and nothing else. You do need an appropriate circuit breaker for the TM. Does the harness have one already? What gauge is the wire for the TM? (Gauge will be something like "6 AWG" or "8 AWG" printed on the wire.) The wire size plays into what size breaker is appropriate. What outboard do you have? What TM do you plan to get? Let us know for more comment.

Re: Lund LX220 adding battery [Re: TXjoe] #13642630 07/24/20 02:47 PM
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It's a 24' Lund LX220 (Fish and cruise tri model). It has a 200hp Mercury, and I haven't purchased a trolling motor yet. I agree with you, and definitely had no intention of just hooking things up that I don't understand. If I got some advice and it made sense to me, I may have researched and acted if I was 100%, but I definitely don't want to fry my stuff or hurt anybody.

I'll have to get back on the cables for the TM, they're loose still and will be the only thing connected to the deep cycle - per the consensus here, and the sense it makes. The cables run under the deck and go up to the front section and terminate into a 3-pronged outlet. The battery is 12v, so I'm definitely going to have to keep that in mind when reviewing the line and of course getting a motor. As far as trolling motor, I want to get something with a decent length corded pedal, 12v, enough depth to clamp down to the deck and hit the water (just under 2'), 60+ thrust so I can hang out under the bridges.

I've driven boats forever, but this is the first one that's mine. I've learned a lot over the past 2 months. (like how to park in my slip in 20mph winds lol)

Again, I appreciate the feedback and advice.
Joe

Last edited by TXjoe; 07/24/20 02:53 PM.
Re: Lund LX220 adding battery [Re: TXjoe] #13642762 07/24/20 04:02 PM
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Joe, Your 200hp Merc has substantial alternator output, so unless you are putting a heavy accessory load on the boat, you shouldn't have any problem. Remember, anything on while the outboard is running above idle will be powered by the alternator (therefore not drain the battery during that time) and the alternator will also be charging the battery to help you make it through the day without issue.

I feel VERY concerned about your TM plans. A 12V TM is not going to be enough for your 24' boat. It's almost 3000# without motor, batteries, fuel, people, and other gear. It also has a big wind profile. You're not limited by just what battery trays the boat has - if you can fit 3 batteries (total), you can have a 24V TM, and that will be much better for that boat. Many of us have moved/added/rearranged battery trays to accommodate the right TM setup. A 24V TM will give more useful motor-on time since it's drawing energy from 2 batteries. The amperage draw will be less as well (with a 24V motor). No matter what you do, do NOT connect a TM without confirming you have a circuit breaker, which will be near the battery compartment you showed us photos of, if you have one. I won't be surprised if there isn't as the TM was optional, and the breaker size gets matched to the wire & TM. I can help you get the right breaker once you tell me the wire size and which TM you are getting. Again, I highly recommend you get 24V (which usually has around 80# thrust and longer run time). Lund can probably advise what shaft length TM you should buy (so it reaches the water from your deck).

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