Well, there's always two sides to a story. Most of us who have been in business for many years understand you can satisfy 10,000 but it's usually the ones who are unhappy who tell their story. I doubt that any of us who have had thousands of customers have a 100% satisfied customer record, no matter how hard we have tried to please.

I had Shut Up and Fish install Garmin graph and transducer. Needles to say, I had to rewire everything and he was not Concerned of the issues I was having immediately after his install. He told me to call Garmin. I called Garmin and got everything corrected and reinstalled by myself. I also got back in touch with him to let him know what to watch out for with future installs, so this wouldn’t happen to anyone else. I was very considerate and just trying to be helpful
and I didn’t receive a reply.

IMO.. if you ask a guy what size wire he runs to the bow, for this modern day load of electronics, if he says #14, that will explain the rest of the install.
If all you require is that it works almost anyone will do, you're not really screwed unless you realize it.

lol

I just ran an 8 gauge to the bow if a Ranger for a Buddy

8ga for a 5 amp circuit? My kinda overkill!

On the subject of graph installs...

Any opinions on graphs being wired to the switch at the console? Nothing but trouble for me over the years if all the graphs aren't run to the battery.

Well let me say this on that topic... both of my Humminbird Helix units were installed the way you just described by the first shop that had my boat and I had NOTHING but interference and all that shop cared about was that the units worked when it left his shop. The shop even forgot to put my strap onto my Ultrex, again just cared that the stuff worked nothing else. I contacted Dave at shut up and fish, made an appointment and he rewired both Helix units as they should be, straight to the battery and even walked me through how to use everything.

Nothing but respect for Dave from me

What size wire did he use to the bow ?

Michael Yoder with Jones Trolling Motor and Electronics in Texarkana. The man and his crew are great at what they do and will go above and beyond to make it work!!

all star marine in dallas ask for Gary they aint cheap but know their stuff inside and out

I have my two Lowrance Carbon, a SonicHub, NMEA network, and a Hydrowave turned on and off via the main power switch. It’s all in how ya do it. I use the main power switch to power the “normal” stuff and it also activates a 30/40 single pole relay that latches 12g supply for the graphs and stuff.
I used to get 1.2 volts less when using the factory pre-rigged wiring and fusing for the accessories. Now, via the relay and larger high quality wiring and relay, I get a very negligible voltage drop. Millivolts.

You're burning power to energize the relay, and asking for it to fail one day when you need that equipment most. Then you'd have to stop fishing to wire around it. What solved the issue is the proper gauge wire feeding power (and there should be one for Ground also, most don't realize). Boat harnesses are often built with wire that's under-size gauge when added electronics devices are considered as add-on.

You could do the same thing with good gauge wire to a bus at the console, and a simple high quality waterproof switch (will better guarantee millivolt-max drop as well or better than a relay), if you wish to be able to power it off when the boat's main power switch is preferred to remain ON. Why do you even need to be able to disconnect power to most of those things you listed? The only one with a parasitic drain is the power drop for the NMEA network. Everything else will do a shutdown to cold-off. The sonic hub will power up and down based on the yellow control wire from a graph, but you could interrupt that with a toggle if you wanted to be able to keep it powered down on tournament day, for instance. (The voltage on the yellow control wires is non-critical, and just a couple of milliamps.)

I'm amazed that so many think there is something magical about "straight to the battery". There isn't, and that isn't what is fixing the chronic problems. Proper wiring, first and foremost, must use the appropriate gauge wire, and this item alone is what corrects a majority of the issues people have. The second one is bad connections, whether they be crimps or screws on a bus bar, you name it. Are those of you with 3 graphs and 3 or 4 more other things running 5 or 6 power runs to the battery? That's senseless, and inefficient! A fuse panel under the console makes sense. The power for this is a total of TWO (one red, one black) wires to the battery - but of a proper gauge, such as 10 ga. for boats that have numerous items. With a new fuse panel under the console, you can skip the problem-plagued fuseholders on each power cord. The power cord for many items can go direct to that new fuse panel, where a proper size fuse is installed for each item. None of this is "straight to the battery" but it's actually the proper way to wire marine electronics.

10 ga. will carry 10 amps 30 feet with 3% or less voltage drop (stranded wire, DC power)
10 ga. will carry 5 amps 60 feet with 3% or less voltage drop (stranded wire, DC power)
Your run was probably not over 20 feet, and the stated load was 5A, so I bet it wouldn't drop more than 1-1.5%. The 8 gauge was a waste of money, and a little more added weight.

The trouble you had was unlikely to have been caused by the switch at the console. It was more likely the boat's multi-spliced wiring harness getting power to that console switch with insufficient wire gauge for the extra loads you were adding. You can have a switch, but the power to it needs to be provided properly. Though, you should never shut down modern graphs by killing power. They are essentially computers with operating systems that need a proper shut-down using "power down" on each unit. Therefore, the switch is moot, unless you are using it for power to a sonic hub, NMEA network power lead, etc.