I'm with you Polly Gosh Lizard, I use my lure retriever especially when the lure is hung up on a deep object. I'd say my success rate is over 99% but be sure to check your line in case it gets nicked up.

I can jiggle with the best of them, but my lure retrievers (pole and a knocker) are the best fishing equipment investment I've ever made. I keep both out on the deck and it's fast and effective. if you do any cranking at all the ROI is usually about 1/2 a day.

I just use a very old paint-less lure retriever for about 90% of recoveries. But I'd sure like to figure out how to get the bladed jigs back in deep water.

I usually use a lure retriever, but I'm gonna try the pop it on slack line technique. We'll see.

Everyone, thanks for all the great tips.

I agree, these are all great tips and thank you for sharing! The technique of popping your line with slight tension and immediately dropping your rod tip to place slack into your line is something that I initially use with a lot of success when I think I may be hung up, especially when fishing with heavier bottom oriented jigs, Carolina rigs, and Texas rigged soft plastics. The popping your line technique works best with line that has more elasticity. Monofilament line seems to work best with this technique due to its ability to stretch while on the opposite end of the spectrum braided line which has little to no stretch at all will not work quite as well with the popping of your line to unhang a lure. When I do employ this technique I also always recommend using quite a bit of finesse for the best results. I did not know how to write an extremely detailed description regarding how to free a lure by doing that, I'm glad another TFF Member shared a video explaining this tactic in further detail.

In regards to using your rod tip to unhang lures in shallow water that is the first thing that I will do if my rod is long enough to reach the snagged lure. For this reason I do not hesitate whatsoever to purchase then use expensive and especially tournament proven shallow running hardbaits like Megabass Jerkbaits, high priced Lucky Craft Crankbaits, and expensive glidebaits due to the fact that you often can simply place your vessel overtop of the snagged lure then reel down to the bait, sometime needing to submerged the entire rod far beyond your reel seat, then lightly bump the snagged lure off of whatever cover your lure is snagged onto using your rod tip. As long as you do this gently you should not have to have to worry about breaking the inserts from the top guides on your rods blanks. I see more rod tip inserts broken due to anglers reeling their Texas rigged or other lures in which the knot is connected to small sized lead or brass component and running their vessels down a fishery in choppy water in high speeds which often tighten the pressure between those inserts and will with time take a heavy toll of their integratory. Fortunately these components are easy to replace without taking them to a rod shop for repairs. Although highly productive, this can quite unpleasant in water temperatures below 50 degrees but is very well worth the temporary discomfort to save your easily retrievable lures.

When fishing Lake Fork make sure to remember washed out / exposed root systems are quite expansive across the lake, particularly in some shallow areas that have softer bottoms and are more often exposed to conditions which create current due to heavy wind and the sometimes the opening of some gates on fisheries dams. These areas are typically very long and slow tapering main lake points which are positioned directly between where the water is entering the lake and where that water is headed to. They are often near some of the major creek arms / flats which feeds vast amounts of water into the lake following a heavy rainfall on the lake or rain that falls many miles above the immediate area. When some of the gates on Lake Fork and other fisheries dams are open for flood control purposes the water current which this creates unfortunately does bring in large amounts of sediment, some more than other lakes, but the moving water will also over time contribute to gradually exposing the root systems on the existing submerged standing timber which can sometimes, especially on older fisheries with expansive watersheds be over 10' in diameter with over 1' of depth beneath some areas of root systems. Fortunately these areas of submerged timber / root systems are often very productive fishing areas due to the amount of cover that is offered amongst these exposed and expansive root systems. This exposed root systems in a fishes habitat provide cover for the largemouth bass as well as their prey. Thanks again for everyones comments on the topic, there were some great tips shared. Good luck fishing my friends, stay safe on the water and never stop learning!