When I say drive through it i’m meaning drive through it because before you know how to drive it it’s going to start walking on you, so at that point don’t let off the gas or trim it down you will “drive through it”. But for those being super technical yes obviously once you know how to drive the boat it will not do that because you will make the corrections with your hands before it even starts to walk so there’s no driving through it. But at first that’s exactly what you’re going to have to do. I had a Bullet, and when I first got it I actually thought something was wrong with it!!! Lmao but once I learn how to drive it I really couldn’t even make it walk anymore it just came natural. And yes it will look kind of like how a little kid would look driving a car that was a good explanation!

I stand corrected. You’re the first guy I’ve heard legitimately get that out of an FX. That’s awesome though. My cougar walked at 72 and once you got through it rode like a dream

Been seeing several folks posting about chine walking in the new FXR. Sounds like the new hull is not your typical drive with one finger boat that Skeeter has built for years.

Very interesting

Thank you all again for the replies and help. It is funny, I am sure many of us are like this, but once I find something interesting I enjoy learning. I couldn't work much today because I was researching and talking to you guys.

Update: Just got back in off the water. I went ahead and raised my motor height to match his and we both went out. It got a little windy this afternoon so we had to run up the river some to find good water. We have different weight with regards to tackle but both weight about the same so overall I don't think there was that much difference in weight or set up. The only difference is I have had my prop worked by Mark's Custom Props and I have more cup. His started to chine walk at about 70% trim and he was doing 6050 rpm and 70.5 mph. Mine started the chine walk at about 3/4 trim (which is about 78-80% in the dial in a skeeter) and I was just at 5900 rpm and 73.5 mph and I had more throttle left. I continued through it just like you guys stated with the small choppy turns left/right and went to full trim (100%) at 6050 rpm and 75.2 mph but even then the walk was pretty bad. I really feel like I can get to 76 or maybe even 77 mph once I get it set right and more seat time.

These hulls are definitely different than the previous FX, but I still love the boat I just need to do some adjustments and it seems like it might take a little more "driving" than before where you could literally use one finger.

So question is, on each boat, the obvious thing to do I would assume would be to lower the motor just a touch, right? Like someone mentioned previously these new hulls might not need to be trimmed all the way up, it is highly possible that the optimum performance might be achieved at a different trim level but some adjustments may be needed to the motor height and a little more skilled driver. I want to get to around 6100 or so and run 75-76 mph at whatever trim and if a little chine walk starts that fine, but it would take a skilled driver to drive through what mine started to do today.

Leave the motor where it is and practice driving. Once you get the hang of it, it almost becomes second nature. From there you can play with motor height and trim to possibly squeeze a few more mph's out of it.

By leaving the motor where it is and learning to drive through it, and I ask this because if I am understanding what I am learning, you actually 'can' drive through it and once passed it and you continue trimming you can reach the max potential? Or am I wrong and you really can't drive through it, but rather learn to handle it and not allow it to want to walk. Hope that makes sense?

exactly --had a triton for years -if you drive a triton you can drive anything ( they are fast boats though) -have a skeeter now and it has its own tricks also!

this thread reminds me of the TFF of older days, civil and good information. well done gents

Skeeter removed the pencil roll, lightened the hull and shortened the pad?

Look out Allison... there’s a new cat in town!

I have to disagree, I have had several tritons, one in particular would run over 82 gps, it was a 20XHP, it drove like it was on rails, had an 2005 and a 2007 that would touch 80, they both required a little driver input but was not bad at all, one thing i found out about a Triton, if the motor was set too low they would walk like crazy, most of mine liked the prop to be 2 to 2 1/2 inches below pad, B & B 26 Tempest prop.

As others have said, it’s a feeling in your butt and it’s before it ever walks. It takes seat time to learn and I don’t know of any substitute. You have to drive mine from 75-80 and then it smoothes out above 80.

You need the boat set up correctly though as there’s no substitute for that.

Correct you don’t drive thru it. That is the most idiotic thing people always say about chine. People who know how to control it don’t have chine they are preventing it.

I wonder How many boats have been crashed or people ejected because someone posted. Get some nuts and drive thru it??

This is what happened to me, steering seal was leaking and slack in the piston made the boat wag at top speed, didn't feel exactly like a chine walk but definitely unstable. I would call skeeter and have them tell you what the recommended prop to pad measurement is on that boat, then you can can know what motor height to start at and play with raising or lowering a little from there.

Remind me to put a block under your hot foot if I am fishing with you. Not sure I want to do 80+ with you driving


Seriously though, agree completely with seat time making all the difference. My Champion would chine walk badly and over time I learned to make little tweaks of the wheel and keep it on the pad. It becomes second nature. The jack plate required a little adjustment to get peak performance, but it’s the loose nut behind the wheel that makes the most difference.