I bought a new Ranger Z520 with Larance HDS live graphs. The water temperature on both the front and back graph are off. I have searched the Internet and tried several things with no luck. Does anybody have any ideas? Or not who I could talk to to try to get this fixed?

Off as in ‘not on’ or as in ‘not accurate’? If not accurate, your transducers need to be in the water a while before they (or whatever part of them) reach the same temp as the water....some are faster than others.

Thank you for your reply. My problem is the water temperature is not accurate it is probably 8° too hot on both the front and back graphs. On the Internet, others have had the same issue with the boat and the graphs but I can’t find a resolution

Settings, Network, data source, sonar, water temp, use the drop down on right change to local. Issue is its set to Global.

Thanks, but it is set to “local”

"IT"? Do you mean "THEY" (since you have TWO Live MFDs? I understand you are concerned with an 8 degree error? ....and you are saying that both units are reading the same temperature, just that you believe it to be off by 8 degrees? Please note that two units in error where BOTH are off by exactly 8 degrees is an extraordinarily slim possibility. Occam's Razor says the simplest theory is the most likely, and the case that two malfunctioning temperature probes could somehow BOTH be off by exactly 8 degrees is not likely to be the "what" in your case.

Do you know what temperature source is selected in the settings of each Live MFD? There is more to it than just "local" or "global"..

Do three things: 1) Make sure the units setting for temperature on both Live MFDs is set to Fahrenheit. 2) Make sure BOTH units are set to local, if that's what you want. You may want to read up on this before you decide. 3) In setup on each Live MFD, Look at the "source" setting for WHERE the temperature is being read from. There can actually be several possible temperature inputs, so it's important to select the one you wish to use. Numerous transducer models have temperature capability, but can be slow to respond. The TM transducer can get pretty warm when out of the water, and may not read correctly for a while when immersed. Ranger knows this, so they often install a dedicated temperature probe.

Look under the hull step at the transom. If you see a round black disc sensor, you have a dedicated temperature probe on the NMEA network.This is a very good probe that reacts quickly, and also stays in the water at a standard depth. In my opinion, this is the absolute best solution for monitoring temperature. You should read your HDS manual to learn how to select a temperature probe on the NMEA network, if there is one on your boat.

Here's the bottom line as I'm going to guess it, having never seen your boat or setup screens: The combination of settings you have is causing both units to ultimately get temperature data from the same source, which is why you are seeing the same number, albeit looking wrong, on both displays. The catch is, you probably don't know where you are getting this data from, and that's where the gremlin is.

Why I think you are getting a bogus temperature: You aren't reading the lake's temperature.: You have selected the temperature SOURCE as a particular transducer - the one epoxied in the bilge of your boat - it's not even in the lake! That, my friend, is the simple answer. Read the manual a bit, check the settings, and let me know if I was right.

Confirm the data source. Also toggle it to Global. You should see it jump even higher when set here. It will read air temp. Probably a data source needs to be set right.

I have a new 2019 Ranger Z520 with to the Lowrance HDS units. The water temperature is incorrect. I believe, I have the wrong transducers selected. Any ideas?

Why is going to global going to guarantee a jump in temperature reading? That could change the source to another unit's transducer (if tempature capable), but that in itself doesn't say that reading will be higher, specifically. Your advice to check the source was already my vote on his issue. He probably needs to spend some time manual reading. Lack of understanding use is the most common "error" in marine electronics.

Good point on why will the temp jump. My thoughts were if the data source isn't right it might not change. If I toggle between Global and local the temp will change as soon as I do it. Confirming the data source is accurate.(troubleshooting if you will) It definitely takes some effort to work through this. These units are not intuitive at all.

The options are so endless that you must read the manual carefully when setting up a boat. Setup depends on what components you have along with your personal preference - some have a NMEA network and some don't. Some with a network may still not have a dedicated probe. It's hard to make that many layer choices simply intuitive to the casual observer. If everyone is willing to have it just one way, then they can make the much smaller number of options a lot more intuitive. That, however, is guaranteed to make happy camps and mad camps in the customer base, which isn't good. Each of today's high end units has considerable computational power and ability. With that comes the responsibility to read the manual in order to use it to its fullest advantage. Each task CAN be broken down to simple steps once the manual is comprehended. Example: For each unit, decide where the data will come from. If local, then you must choose which of multiple sources. That's not that hard after reading the manual.

The guys who get the most from their units are the ones who understand them the best, and that starts with studying the manual. I happened to discuss MFD use with electronics industry contacts in that sector. It was stated that the average angler using a unit likely leaves 90% of the units flexibility/capability untouched. Have you ever watched a skilled user on a unit? They seem to fly through button presses in getting what they want without hesitation. Electronics use is a skill learned, and that requires some investment in time just like many other skills in fishing.

Gonna have to send that Ranger back to the factory to get it shortened. It’s too long and that makes the transducers read different temps.

Congrats on the new boat.

Have you thought about reading the answers posted to this same question you have already posted in another sub-forum? It looks lazy on your part to tap dance across the different sub-forums here posting the same question, then never bothering to read what others offer in explanation of what you are doing wrong and what you don't understand about your electronics.

At least two people put effort into providing help that you promptly ignored (it seems). That will get you on the "I won't bother to respond" list pretty quickly here.

I’m sorry to offended you. I thought the electronics subcategory would be a good place for a post. I had to work yesterday afternoon and I couldn’t reply to anyone else’s posts. I have read the manual but I’m not a genius like you. I would like to thank everyone who tried to help

I understand you may have worked and didn't have online access. The point is you posted the question AGAIN here - AFTER posting in the bass fishing forum. I had already answered your question there, before you ever posted it here.. So, when you got access again, you didn't bother to look there. if you had bothered to simply look at THAT post you would see answers - instead of taking up time from more people. You need to read my post and follow it. Look for the temp probe under the transom. If there is one, that is where you should be setting the units to get the temp from. I'm 99% certain you have selected the transducer epoxied inside the transom. That transducer isn't in the lake, and won't provide lake temperature. Read the manual. Look at how to set the things I mention. You're going to have to learn a LOT about that electronics, or it's just a pile of $$$ burning battery power for not much reason.