One thing I was not particularly happy with on my STRIPER3 build was the rudder controls. The cable housings were vinyl and poly. And control cables were 1000# dyneema (superbraid). Too much friction in the system. It worked but it took a lot of effort to make it work. Been trying to decide what to do. Recently I built an Airboat and for the rudder controls I have pedals. And again I used Poly for the cable housings and the cables were 200# dyneema. These rudder controls are pretty much a straight shot back to the rudders. Not happy with the friction. Got on line with one of my RC model suppliers and found Teflon tubing. Not happy with the price so I checked Amazon. Much better pricing. The Teflon tubing I used on the airboat was 4MM OD 2MM ID. Too small to fit any of my "P" clamps. So I just ran it inside the existing Poly. Worked like a charm. So I thought what could I do for STRIPER3. The 4MM would not fit inside the vinyl tubing but they also make a 3 MM with a 2MM ID. So that is what I ordered. Had a heck of a time getting it to slide more than 3 feet inside the vinyl. But I discovered accidentally that it can be done. First I stuff the Teflon up the vinyl as far as I could about 3 feet. Then stuff the 200# as far as it will go into the Teflon then stuff 60# mono alongside 200#. This mono had a small nob burned on the end. And the mono stuffed all the way 5 feet through. Then I pulled the mono until the nob entered the Teflon. The further it got the harder it jammed against the 200# in the Teflon. So now I am pulling the Teflon rather than pushing and I was able to pull the Teflon all the rest of the way through the 5 feet of vinyl. And when came out it relieved the pressure on the Teflon and allowed me to pull the mono all the way through along with the 200#. Redid the whole rudder steerage system in Teflon and 200# dyneema. Much smoother and lighter now and tighter.

Sweet!!

Innovation and being able to outfit your rig to suit you us one of the best parts of kayak fishing!

Nice! Yep fishing rudder lines can be frustrating. I've used 40 lb and 60 lb. stainless leader wire (I had some that I use for my kingfish rigs) to fish through the tubing. The leader wire is small enough to be able to make a small loop at one end and be able to weave the rudder line through the loop and still fit through most rudder tubing that comes pre-rigged on kayaks. Worked like a charm installing a rudder on my Viking.

Like Jerry, I used "Shark Leader", which is teflon coated, multi-strand stainless cable. I ran 1/4" poly tubing from my cockpit entrance points to the stern of my kayak. Where the cable enters the cockpit, I used 3/16" stainless pop rivets, with the nail removed for a "bulkhead feedthru", and glued the tubing onto the barrel inside. At the stern, the cables exit and hook to the rudder. Works with no friction at all. IslandJim