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Question about my Ultrex #13365319 12/08/19 05:53 PM
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kirbydog Offline OP
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I've got a 24 volt 80 lb Ultrex I bought in march of 2018. A couple of times this past week while out on the water the blue light
button (power on) went out. I played with the on/off switch and the blue light came back on and was never an issue the res of the day.

Did it twice, once on Fri and once on Sat-after it came back it was never an issue. Should I be proactive and get a new power on switch
from Minn Kota ? Its time to get new batteries anyway so I'll be replacing those next week.

Any advice?

Moritz Chevrolet - 9101 Camp Bowie W Blvd, Fort Worth, TX - Monte Coon (817) 696-2003
Re: Question about my Ultrex [Re: kirbydog] #13365347 12/08/19 06:32 PM
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elkhunter7x6 Offline
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I have had to replace the switch on mine for the very reasons you mention.

Re: Question about my Ultrex [Re: kirbydog] #13365407 12/08/19 07:30 PM
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SteezMacQueen Online Happy
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Replacing the switch is temporary. It isn’t the switch causing the problems. The switch in the “on” position, seperates the wires and that separation let’s the trolling motor turn “on”. Turning the switch “off” shorts a wire to ground, telling the trolling motor to turn off. You can remove the switch, throw in the lake, and keep on fishing.


The reason the switch “fails” and keeps the unit powers up is the 1/4” female terminals are loose from the factory. You can wiggle them(temporary fix), use a pair of pliers and tighten the connection(temporary fix), replace the switch, which causes a “cleaner connection during the process of the installation(temporary fix), or you can solder/heat shrink the connections to the switch (more permanent, but possibly still temporary...since it is possible the switch could still fail internally).

The best solution, is the remove the switch entirely and solder the two wires together. Then add a master cutoff switch in the battery compartment that turns off ALL power to the trolling motor for servicing the prop and charging the batteries.

The switch shorting to ground is a great idea, but the installation and quality of the switch is a very poor decision on MKs part.


Eat. Sleep. Fish.
Re: Question about my Ultrex [Re: SteezMacQueen] #13365422 12/08/19 07:42 PM
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Jeff From Iowa Offline
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Originally Posted by SteezMacQueen
Replacing the switch is temporary. It isn’t the switch causing the problems. The switch in the “on” position, seperates the wires and that separation let’s the trolling motor turn “on”. Turning the switch “off” shorts a wire to ground, telling the trolling motor to turn off. You can remove the switch, throw in the lake, and keep on fishing.


The reason the switch “fails” and keeps the unit powers up is the 1/4” female terminals are loose from the factory. You can wiggle them(temporary fix), use a pair of pliers and tighten the connection(temporary fix), replace the switch, which causes a “cleaner connection during the process of the installation(temporary fix), or you can solder/heat shrink the connections to the switch (more permanent, but possibly still temporary...since it is possible the switch could still fail internally).

The best solution, is the remove the switch entirely and solder the two wires together. Then add a master cutoff switch in the battery compartment that turns off ALL power to the trolling motor for servicing the prop and charging the batteries.

The switch shorting to ground is a great idea, but the installation and quality of the switch is a very poor decision on MKs part.



Good idea on just eliminate it... but will you still have the indicator lights?

I have a master disconnect on the back of my boat that completely cuts off my 12 and 36 system and I can put a lock on it if I wanted.

Re: Question about my Ultrex [Re: Jeff From Iowa] #13365493 12/08/19 08:50 PM
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outfishdya Offline
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Originally Posted by Jeff From Iowa
Originally Posted by SteezMacQueen
Replacing the switch is temporary. It isn’t the switch causing the problems. The switch in the “on” position, seperates the wires and that separation let’s the trolling motor turn “on”. Turning the switch “off” shorts a wire to ground, telling the trolling motor to turn off. You can remove the switch, throw in the lake, and keep on fishing.


The reason the switch “fails” and keeps the unit powers up is the 1/4” female terminals are loose from the factory. You can wiggle them(temporary fix), use a pair of pliers and tighten the connection(temporary fix), replace the switch, which causes a “cleaner connection during the process of the installation(temporary fix), or you can solder/heat shrink the connections to the switch (more permanent, but possibly still temporary...since it is possible the switch could still fail internally).

The best solution, is the remove the switch entirely and solder the two wires together. Then add a master cutoff switch in the battery compartment that turns off ALL power to the trolling motor for servicing the prop and charging the batteries.

The switch shorting to ground is a great idea, but the installation and quality of the switch is a very poor decision on MKs part.



Good idea on just eliminate it... but will you still have the indicator lights?

I have a master disconnect on the back of my boat that completely cuts off my 12 and 36 system and I can put a lock on it if I wanted.


Do you have 2 master disconnects?
Not sure how 1they can make 1 disconnect that does both.
My Skeeter has a disco, but 1 it does not disconnect the 36 vdc.


Woke up this morning
Got yourself a gun....
Re: Question about my Ultrex [Re: kirbydog] #13365498 12/08/19 08:56 PM
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That's never happened to me, but I did have my first issue this week. Currently out of commission until warranty repair work is completed, motor suddenly failed to turn the prop. Had power and it would respond to steering commands. One year old, the service center thought it sounded like an armature went out.. All I know is, it's frustrating when you pay that much and it hasn't even made it a year, i'm not even as hard on mine as some people.

Re: Question about my Ultrex [Re: outfishdya] #13365502 12/08/19 08:59 PM
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Jeff From Iowa Offline
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Do you have 2 master disconnects?
Not sure how 1they can make 1 disconnect that does both.
My Skeeter has a disco, but 1 it does not disconnect the 36 vdc.




No I have one just like I said. I mounted it in my splash well, next to the livewell drain and remote flo rite valve I installed. I cut off the ears so its round like the other two valves I added and bolted it thru with some small ss bolts.

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/44057/Cole-Hersee-880175-TR-Series-500A-/

Last edited by Jeff From Iowa; 12/08/19 09:01 PM.
Re: Question about my Ultrex [Re: C.Seymour] #13365504 12/08/19 09:04 PM
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Jeff From Iowa Offline
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Originally Posted by C.Seymour
That's never happened to me, but I did have my first issue this week. Currently out of commission until warranty repair work is completed, motor suddenly failed to turn the prop. Had power and it would respond to steering commands. One year old, the service center thought it sounded like an armature went out.. All I know is, it's frustrating when you pay that much and it hasn't even made it a year, i'm not even as hard on mine as some people.


Probably your pedal switch out of adjustment its easy to adjust, lots of talk about it on here.

I had my armature burn some spots in it, it would only not start when it stopped lined up on those spots, which was half the time, if I turned the prop a little it would then work. I bought a armature and replaced it myself.

Re: Question about my Ultrex [Re: Jeff From Iowa] #13365508 12/08/19 09:08 PM
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outfishdya Offline
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Originally Posted by Jeff From Iowa

Do you have 2 master disconnects?
Not sure how 1they can make 1 disconnect that does both.
My Skeeter has a disco, but 1 it does not disconnect the 36 vdc.




No I have one just like I said. I mounted it in my splash well, next to the livewell drain and remote flo rite valve I installed. I cut off the ears so its round like the other two valves I added and bolted it thru with some small ss bolts.

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/44057/Cole-Hersee-880175-TR-Series-500A-/

You come off like a doush the way you respond to people


Woke up this morning
Got yourself a gun....
Re: Question about my Ultrex [Re: kirbydog] #13365517 12/08/19 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by kirbydog
I've got a 24 volt 80 lb Ultrex I bought in march of 2018. A couple of times this past week while out on the water the blue light
button (power on) went out. I played with the on/off switch and the blue light came back on and was never an issue the res of the day.

Did it twice, once on Fri and once on Sat-after it came back it was never an issue. Should I be proactive and get a new power on switch
from Minn Kota ? Its time to get new batteries anyway so I'll be replacing those next week.

Any advice?

I got a replacement switch for 5 bucks from Oreilly's auto parts. Dropped in and fixed issue. You can also get it in red so it is not nearly as bright when night fishing


Woke up this morning
Got yourself a gun....
Re: Question about my Ultrex [Re: outfishdya] #13365682 12/09/19 12:27 AM
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Jeff From Iowa Offline
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Originally Posted by outfishdya
Originally Posted by Jeff From Iowa

Do you have 2 master disconnects?
Not sure how 1they can make 1 disconnect that does both.
My Skeeter has a disco, but 1 it does not disconnect the 36 vdc.




No I have one just like I said. I mounted it in my splash well, next to the livewell drain and remote flo rite valve I installed. I cut off the ears so its round like the other two valves I added and bolted it thru with some small ss bolts.

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/44057/Cole-Hersee-880175-TR-Series-500A-/

You come off like a doush the way you respond to people


Cool

I thought you came across like a doush when you said "not sure how they can make 1 that disconnect that does both." BUT I still gave you the link so now you know. Your welcome.

Obviously if I didnt have one disconnect that did both I wouldnt say I did...

Re: Question about my Ultrex [Re: Jeff From Iowa] #13365686 12/09/19 12:30 AM
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SteezMacQueen Online Happy
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Originally Posted by Jeff From Iowa
Originally Posted by outfishdya
Originally Posted by Jeff From Iowa

Do you have 2 master disconnects?
Not sure how 1they can make 1 disconnect that does both.
My Skeeter has a disco, but 1 it does not disconnect the 36 vdc.




No I have one just like I said. I mounted it in my splash well, next to the livewell drain and remote flo rite valve I installed. I cut off the ears so its round like the other two valves I added and bolted it thru with some small ss bolts.

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/44057/Cole-Hersee-880175-TR-Series-500A-/

You come off like a doush the way you respond to people


Cool

I thought you came across like a doush when you said "not sure how they can make 1 that disconnect that does both." BUT I still gave you the link so now you know. Your welcome.

Obviously if I didnt have one disconnect that did both I wouldnt say I did...


Thanks for the link, Jeff! That is a cool part. I think I’ll buy one for the boat.


Eat. Sleep. Fish.
Re: Question about my Ultrex [Re: SteezMacQueen] #13365697 12/09/19 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by SteezMacQueen
Replacing the switch is temporary. It isn’t the switch causing the problems. The switch in the “on” position, seperates the wires and that separation let’s the trolling motor turn “on”. Turning the switch “off” shorts a wire to ground, telling the trolling motor to turn off. You can remove the switch, throw in the lake, and keep on fishing.


The reason the switch “fails” and keeps the unit powers up is the 1/4” female terminals are loose from the factory. You can wiggle them(temporary fix), use a pair of pliers and tighten the connection(temporary fix), replace the switch, which causes a “cleaner connection during the process of the installation(temporary fix), or you can solder/heat shrink the connections to the switch (more permanent, but possibly still temporary...since it is possible the switch could still fail internally).

The best solution, is the remove the switch entirely and solder the two wires together. Then add a master cutoff switch in the battery compartment that turns off ALL power to the trolling motor for servicing the prop and charging the batteries.

The switch shorting to ground is a great idea, but the installation and quality of the switch is a very poor decision on MKs part.


That will work for sure but will also void any warranty you have left. I would wait till the warranty is out.
I use a master switch to cut the power to my trolling motor but won’t eliminate the switch until it is out of warranty.

Re: Question about my Ultrex [Re: kirbydog] #13365705 12/09/19 12:47 AM
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Jeff From Iowa Offline
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[Linked Image]

Re: Question about my Ultrex [Re: kirbydog] #13365706 12/09/19 12:48 AM
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kirbydog Offline OP
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Thanks guys-at least now I know whats going on with the light going out and having no power. I do love my Ultrex.


Last edited by kirbydog; 12/09/19 12:52 AM.
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