Yes or no? Ive always used engine oil on the threads. Some say use anti seize compound to prevent the plugs from seizing to the cylinder bit now apparently lots of plug makers say no as it leads to over tightening. Im old school and go by feel. Dont even own a torque wrench. This is for a bike, not a car.

i use anti seize compound.

Only if it's a poorly engineered ford.

Why guess torque wrenches are not that expensive..?

Autozone loans out torque wrenches for free.

On vehicles that run plugs 100k, definitely use anti seize, the good kind with nickel(?). On my bike, I would use it also, even if it won’t stay there for so long. Just don’t over them. Just a little bit goes a long way...

always on my boat too

I use anti seize, I don’t like stuck plugs, I also don’t have a torque wrench, never had a problem just tightening until they stop.

kawasaki, as a rule of thumb when using anti-seize, reduce torque by 30% but i have never used a torque wrench on a plug, just snug them up on a bevel seated plug. those plugs you bought have a crush gasket so snug then no more than a 1/4 turn should be fine

This is the way I use to do it but since I have a torque wrench why not use it. I use anti seize on truck and boat but not on lawn equipment or ATV

Along with what I did at the power plant metallurgy was something I had to know inside out. The very best anti-seize on the market is Silver Goop. If you are putting 2 stainless materials you better use it if you want them apart. If you are putting steel(spark plugs) in aluminum, graphite works very good. Carbon steel or alloy steel use some form of Fel-Pro anti-seize. Unless it is over 1500 degs. I would use the copper base Fel-Pro. The nickel base while it is for high temps. can also be used where the copper base is used if that is your preference. It is more expensive also.

I forgot to add that the problem with spark plugs is that the plugs go too far into the head. What that causes is the thread that is exposed fills with carbon. When you try to back them out they ruin the threads in the soft aluminum. There are spacers/thicker crush washers to space the plugs to the right depths. If they are tapered seats then you really have to be careful and don't over tighten the plugs.

No way .

I owned and operated an automotive machine shop for years .... I can assure you 100% if it is an aluminum head you will either use antiseize or wish you had!!!!! (well make that 99.9%)

Oil, or some other form of protectant/lubricant will probably be fine, the these new plugs last 100,000+ miles and the plug is welded in place without some barrier.

lol machinist, i had the steel on aluminum corrosion issue typed out too but deleted that part, i thought it might be tmi. stump, i do have torque wrenches, 1/4 to 3/4 inch, 3 in half inch alone, just never had the need replacing plugs. i'll second the silver goop