98 SINGLE AXLE RANGER TRAIL COOL-HUBS....NEED TO INSPECT BEARINGS.NO ISSUES JUST WANT TO TAKE A LOOK BEFORE A LONG TRIP. DOES ANY BODY AFTER MARKET MAKE ALL THE SEALS I WILL NEED ? CANT SEEM TO FIND WHAT I NEED ON INTER NET

Look for UFP Ranger style hubs. I have the same ones on the Champion that I have now. Both of the drain screws on my brake axle are frozen so I have been looking at parts just in case I cannot extract them. Another good option is to call Ranger.

WE CAN CHECK THEM OUT FOR YOU AND FILL WITH NEW OIL

Not to hijack the thread, but I had a rear seal go out and had the drain plug on that hub was stuck. I was able to get it out with an extractor. I don't recall if I had to drill all the way through the plug, but bet I did. What little shavings you get from doing that should come out with the old oil. It is a 1/8" pipe thread plug. I used SAE50 oil to refill and went to Wally World and bought a clear condiment squeeze bottle to fill with.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Chef-Craft-22oz-Squeeze-Bottle-with-Cap/839130618

I have soaked in PB Blaster for a week and no go. I have new SS set screws ready to go. I have been looking at Kodiak bearing caps and leave the set screws. My concern is if drill and cant extract or the threads are jacked then I am looking at a new hub/rotor.

You could always drill them out then run a tap through, however, since these are pipe thread, I think they are tapered since the plugs do tighten up.

Don't put stainless plugs in without lots of anti-seize or you will be drilling them out for sure. I always use brass plugs because they are easy to drill if needed.

I have the anti seize ready to go if I extract them. Funny thing is I have no problems with the idler axle. I will probably just go with the Kodiak replacement bearing caps.

I've not had any issues with seized plugs other than the one mentioned above. From the UFP Service publication ---> http://www.waymires.com/support_documents/ufp/ufp_trailer_buddy_axle_gold_series_service_manual.pdf

ADDING OIL Lubricant is added through the threaded port on the nose of hub. Remove fill/drain plug and add Trailer Buddy hub oil. This proprietary blend of 50 wt. oil is designed to provide long-term superior lubrication for boat trailer roller bearings. Add oil until all the air is forced out and no air bubbles can be seen. Use standard 50 wt. motor oil as an alternative. Then reinstall the plug after applying Permatex High-Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker to the threads and torque to 7 ft pounds.

I also bought a clear squeeze condiment bottle from Wally World to add my oil. Used SAE 50.

Some good info in the UFP manual. I have read that some hubs only need to be half full of oil. I have seen this on the Ranger hubs particularly. If I used the Kodiak bearing caps I could only fill the hubs slightly more than half way. Previous owner was the original but apparently did not believe in owners manuals. This is probably why the plugs are seized. I believe in reading the owners manuals. I lamost walked away from the boat when he said he did not have any manuals.

The rear seals leaking on the starboard side are the only issues I've had with mine. By the time the 2nd one started leaking, I was pretty good at replacing them. I tow maybe 3000-4000 mi a year.