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Re: Running trot lines... [Re: CrappieTuna] #13272070 09/06/19 01:09 PM
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Lynn, I want to try your set up at some point so if you dont mind drawing up a picture of what it looks like, when you get some time of course, Ill run one of those when I run mine also this winter. I have a few good SW spots that id like to try where the trees arent as common. I understand what you are saying about the noodles but the main lines I get confused when you are talking about the floats.

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Re: Running trot lines... [Re: CrappieTuna] #13272128 09/06/19 01:56 PM
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It appears that Lynn is describing how to suspend the trotline with the floats. Pretty cool idea using the trotline clips. In my lake, his suspended trotlining would be super effective in March.


1987 Whaler Super Sport 17, Yamaha 90
1981 Whaler Sport 13, Johnson 50
Re: Running trot lines... [Re: CrappieTuna] #13272278 09/06/19 04:08 PM
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Thats what I was thinking he was explaining. It does sound very effective and in spring and winter I always have good luck fishing nearest the surface

Re: Running trot lines... [Re: CrappieTuna] #13273021 09/07/19 10:30 AM
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My apologies, as I had started to write Wednesday or Thursday night, but fell asleep. As I awoke at the keyboard, I decided to erase the 4 or 5 lines (I think), since I did not have time to continue, And instead of copy N pasting what I had so far, I didn't. Very long hot week at work.

On Lake Limestone, I have not had a problem with rolling logs. But I fish on the bottom of the lake (far side to near side, and the Running Creek Branch), not where the river feeds in. I did have a problem on Trinity River below TX 21 once. I spotted a bobbing 20 footer & had to take evasive action. I had one trotline running across where "Big'Un" (took me two years to catch her- a 60+ pound Op) was located at. I tied to the floating end that was bobbing up & down in the water & took off. It brought it all to the surface & I passed over all my lines until after I had passed my camp. Then I untied & let it go its own way from there. Back then, I was running an old deeper & very sturdy 1962 Elgin flat bottom from Sears my Dad bought new with several braces & back straps reinforced to take torque without ripping out the back, since I was utilizing a 47 pound Wards Sea King by Chrysler 15 HP short shallow stocky motor. If they still made that motor, I would get another now for my new 12 footer 2017 AlumaCraft flat bottom.

As to "The Planter" style trotline, it is mainly the ends that are my "Planter" design. I finally got to put the mid to early 1980s idea into action in phase 2 of the Catfish Calendar research (on lakes) starting in 2002 on Lake Limestone out of Running Branch Creek Marina & Campground. Phase 1 was 3+ years (on rivers)- on the Trinity River some 25 bends or so down from the TX21 bridge ranging from 18 feet to 25 feet deep. The first one in action only had two gallon concrete weights each side & only two floats (anchor & pointer). In rough windy weather during my T-day trip in 2003, Darrell (he & Nancy own RB) took me out T-Day about 10:30 AM in a Tri-Hull, as my motor conked out backing it off the trailer (water got into the electronics & fried it on the 14' MonArk flat bottom with 25 HP Evinrude, due to flipping over in a storm we got caught at on the far side at that pier. Darrell had a blast as I was getting dashed with waves up front, as he was toting fish back to his two livewells. We had them both overstuffed with Blues. However, I could tell I needed to make some adjustments, as I could tell I was dragging the anchors loose. So I went to 3.5 gallon buckets. It can be done with 2- two gallon each sside, as well as 4- one gallon buckets. But it gets complicated, but for folks who can't handle a 60 to 72 pound anchor & retrieving it, I had to have alternatives (options) available.

The BW trotline is attached to an extra cord of about 20 to 25 feet that gets the first hook at least some 20'+ away from the anchor line, as you do not want a Big Blue or Op to mummy wrap themselves. If they get it entangle with the anchor line, then you will have to pull, take care of the mess & start all over. So the safety measure prevents those mishaps. I think I referred to the slider already, which is made from the 1/4" solid braided cord, utilizing two big loops (one slightly larger). The slider connects the anchor line to the 20/25 footer of cord allowing the trotline attached to easily slide up & down.

The BW trotline sets the leaders at about 5 feet apart to 6 feet, but not any more. The SW trotlines sets them at 4 feet apart (just beyond the 3 feet minimum).

The main design of both incorporate four section of 9 leaders. The variations come on the ends. IN SW, you need to come off of what you are tying to, have enough to tie around the attachment & get the line to drop fast, in order to clear props of others. While the BW does not need that.

A 36 hook BW consists (from one side to the other) of 5 more safety feet, then 9 leaders, a loop, 9 leaders, a center loop, 9 leaders, a loop, 9 leaders, 5 more safety feet. A loop is created on the extra 20 to 25 footer just about 1 foot before tying to the BW trotline. This loop is for a weight & the pointer float cord line, also called the drop line.

All weights are drinking tumblers, hopefully of soft vinyl, not hard plastic, filled with concrete, one U-shape galvanized loop, tie line from loop to a slit in top of tumbler (this keeps both together, as eventually they get loose), along with a 3 foot cord.

On most loops, a weight & regular (16.9 oz) water bottle) are used in conjunction to pull the main line to 3 feet off bottom, but the water bottle is used as a ballast to raise the line keeping the main line fom dropping below 3 feet. On the empty water bottle- tie around twice & tighten 6" to 1 feet of cord to bottle neck. When attaching, fill bottle with lake water, then dump a slight amount, so that the air pocket makes the line float, but not enough to pull the weight up.

A 36 hook SW consists (from one side to the other) of about 5 to 6 feet of attachment (you can do this by using another cord), 3 feet prelim, a drop weight loop, 3 leaders, a loop, 6 leaders, a loop, 9 leaders, a center loop, 9 leaders, a loop, 6 leaders, a loop, 3 leaders, a drop weight loop, 3 feet of prelim, and your 5 to 6 foot for attachment as needed (which you could do separately, as you may tie & wrap an extra round on a big stump, or possibly be tying to a small limb, as to variations needed in length.


Lynn
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Re: Running trot lines... [Re: CrappieTuna] #13273023 09/07/19 10:37 AM
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"The Planter" idea came up because of being out on a lake, you simply have nothing sturdy (or nothing period) to attach to. So with this design, you "plant it wherever you wish). Once again, I suggest in 20 feet or deeper water. The most shallow depth I have tried was 16 feet. But your flexibility is curtailed quite a bit by the shallow depth. My best working depth as to the areas I use, ranges from 30 to 40 feet deep. Plus, it is best you use a 14 footer (boat) for these hefty weights, as it may not be stable in most 12 footers.


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Re: Running trot lines... [Re: CrappieTuna] #13273026 09/07/19 10:47 AM
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Also, these are not noodles, but very soft vinyl fender floats. I prefer white. You mark the "pointer" float with your dated trotline tag info. When you get thru running a line, rebaiting, etc., both pointers should face each other. If one veers off or worse, then something is not correct. Pull that drop line & fix the problem.

Also if you notice, fender floats have a plug. On the anchor line float, plug will be on the down side. On the pointer line float, the plug should be on the end attaching to the anchor float. And the safety float plug should be on the end that the rope connects it to the anchor line.

Anchor line needs to be 24" to 30" (could be 36"). Pointer float should be 18" to 24". Safety float about 24" to 30".


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Re: Running trot lines... [Re: CrappieTuna] #13273269 09/07/19 05:26 PM
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Lynn, Think I understand the part about the main line weights and floats to keep it off the bottom 3 foot. Is what your doing with the anchor ropes on the BW sets, creating a "hitching post" for the ends of the trot-line to attach to? Then using smaller loops on the anchor ropes so the ends of the trot-line will slide up and down the anchor lines? And using a 18" bumper with a cord attached to the trot-line/mainline to pull the trot-line up and run it?

My apologies. I'm having a hard time visualizing what your doing.


G3 river Jon - "The Wild Thing"

"The fish are biting, and there's hogs to be kilt. Gotta go!"
Re: Running trot lines... [Re: DJ BANCO] #13273388 09/07/19 07:21 PM
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I found the cheapest bait for trotline catfish is "Slim Jims". Cut it into pieces about 1/4 to 1/2" pieces.

Last edited by Brew; 09/07/19 09:17 PM.
Re: Running trot lines... [Re: CrappieTuna] #13273630 09/07/19 10:36 PM
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Texas Grown,

Yep, you got it! The anchor setups of the Planter are your attachment ends (Hitchin' Post), to which the BW trotline is attached to, and raised the line (also called Pointer/Hoist float to check as well as to set heighth or depth). To which you can also raise to certain heights to fish at, including if you wish to set the trotline at a diagonal (angle).

But just remember one thing, if setting the line up near the surface, and you are on the main lake, regardless of skiers or just big boats, if the big boat powers down, they literally can dig down 10 feet & snag, cut, or mangle the BW trotline. And if not running off the bottom, then weights must be very little or none. No water bottkles with just a bit of air, or you could pull the line up to the surface at each bottle location. And if running shallower, you may need to set the anchors to where they pull the main trotline tighter, as being away from the anchors, the anchor line will tilt towards the opposite side. So there are variables & adjustments which need to be compensated for how you plan to utilize it. The heighth of the anchor rope needs to be as tight as possible when tying to the bottom of the anchor float. Be sure you have enough extra rope. When I set them, it is in about 36 feet, so I get the rolls of 50 feet & trim off excess (but leave one enough should I need to adjust if the lake rises (but I can say, that is not a fun chore, so you hope for the best, that once set, it is done). The rope can give some, so a 3 feet rise in lake level should be fine. Once you cross a 5' rise, then it might present a problem.

When setting anchors, set the first one, attach BW trotline with double loop slider with a 5 foot temp line to keep near the surface, then proceed out & set opposite anchor where you think it will be a snug fit. Once anchor is set & it seems loose for the trotline, you can "unplant" it, and move anchor further out. Set your length of desired depth (heighth) by cutting the length of cord, attach weight to the loop nearest the anchor on the 20 to 25 footer safety cord & let it drop. It may go all the way or not. Go to the opposite side & do the same. The pointer/drop floats should point to each other. If not, one of two things to check for- (1) entangled drop line, or (2) anchors are set too tight (too close together).

And remember one thing, "The Planter" is designed with give, for less impact on the fish. Unless you utilize this when thermocline is active, it works wonders. Use very flexible fender floats, as you want something soft, should someone hit it (I am talking like perhaps a skier). DO NOT use some sort of PVC frame or floating tube, as that is considered something blocking the waterways, and can hurt someone if they hit it, including maiming a boat. It will be removed from the lake. We have already encountered this problem and explained everything, its operation & so on. We were trying to make it more visible, while not realizing other problems it may cause. You can always educate a Lake Ranger or Game Warden that normally runs that lake, in order to show them how it operates, so they don't make a mess trying to check your line for legality or fish later.

We have been using "The Planter" for many years, upgrading its design here & there & to get to this point of satisfaction that we are as safe as possible for skiers & boats, and less impact on the fish. As well as get to be friends with the Lake Rangers & Game Wardens, by keeping things informed, as well as safe, and of course, also legal.


Lynn
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Re: Running trot lines... [Re: CrappieTuna] #13273641 09/07/19 10:44 PM
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If you should want to try it on a river, my suggestion is to be at least 18 feet deep & set it directly in the middle of the river, if narrow, in line with river. Or off to side, running in line with the river. Ifyou are in a super wide river, then you might try a diagonal slant. Newt (one of my YellowCat teachers) taught me to run a diagonal slant on trotlines in the river (on the Brazos River). Just take into mind, that if the river jumps up, it can lift the anchors & carry off your setup. By being in line, you fend of most debris & logs. But nothing is perfect. "The Planter" was designed mainly for lakes, or big enough areas on rivers, or super wide rivers to place trotlines where you normally can't put them.


Lynn
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Re: Running trot lines... [Re: CrappieTuna] #13273848 09/08/19 01:24 AM
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Great info Lynn! Thanks for answering my questions and then some. I haven't run lines in several years. But have been recently thinking about it to show my grandboys what can be done. Your BW method really makes sense. I have been using trees in the past to tie off to on both ends, usually running along a tree line. Then dropping weights down X number of feet to set depth on both ends. That also helps keep the line taught when slack is taken out of main line. But is difficult to set deep when needing to run lines till you get a little ways away from the ends. 12 feet down is usually not a problem. But much deeper than that is when it gets hard to handle till you get away from the ends. The weight on the ends helps keep the lines taught when running them. I usually use window weights or small anchors for the ends to hold the lines down. Some of the trees I have fished are pretty thick. And I have to be careful running through them. It's and idle through boat area in 15-25' FOW. laugh

Your method sounds like it might could be used on one end when running away from the trees too. That would create a "hitching post" on one end. And a tree on the other angling downward away from the tree. out into open water.


G3 river Jon - "The Wild Thing"

"The fish are biting, and there's hogs to be kilt. Gotta go!"
Re: Running trot lines... [Re: Texas Grown] #13274049 09/08/19 04:00 AM
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With "The Planter", you open possibilities where before, you may not have had any or very few. As you try for what level or angle, or even using just one side, you can adjust as you see fit (or need to).

The people that have gone with me, are always amazed as to how it is set up & operated. And some have looked at the scope & said, Whoa, that's a lot of fish down there. When my Uncle ranm with me, we each had a Planter set out. I would set mine in my spot on the Far Side at the bottom portion of the lake. He wanted his near the dam about midways across the bottom portion of the lake

Also, your cord attaching to the pointer float, when pulled up (such as in 36 feet of water, you have about 32' to 33' excess floating around) can wrap around the anchor setup, but there are methods, such as working with the wind & keeping the excess cord in the boat until you have to let it go out. Once thru checking & rebaiting, look to see if those floats are pointing to each other. If not, you may need to go to the other side & play with it, to reset it correctly. I've done it enough, to where I know how to prevent it about 80% of the time.


Lynn
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Re: Running trot lines... [Re: CrappieTuna] #13274051 09/08/19 04:04 AM
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Sometimes, when I run in the shallows 8' to 12' on the SW lines, the path might be clear in a strauight shot except for one tree, stump, or such. What I do, is use a tie-off line in order to pull the line to angle away from the obstruction. Just attach a weight to each end of the tie off line so it will allow the tie-off line to get low & clear props.


Lynn
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