What problems am I setting myself up for by going to an eight to ten inch drop on my trailer hitch. Towing problems?

I'm trying to not scrape the back of my boat trailer as I back up a steeper pavement-slope into my garage. Thoughts/suggestions?

Thank you.

Depends on how high the back of your truck is. Trailer should be close to level when hooked to truck hitch on level ground with regular load.

Get an adjustable hitch that slides and pins. Change it to the tow position after you pull your boat out and before you put it up. It should not take but an extra minute or two and you can have it at the correct pulling height. There are lots of them with prices from fairly low to over the top.

By placing the trailer hitch ball lower you will be adding more hitch weight and, if a tandem trailer, more weight on the front set of tires.

If I was pulling a 25,000lb backhoe I would worry about the leverage of a big hitch drop. A 3000-4000lb boat? Not so much. I have a stock 2019 Dodge 3500 4x4 dually and it�s surprising how low I have to set the hitch to tow the boat level. I got the B&W drop hitch. Its a 2-1/2� receiver(Class 5). They make one to fit a 2� receiver also. It�s rated for like 20,000lbs at any setting(inches of drop). Real quick & easy to change heights. Takes seconds. Several other brands available also. I say that because if you had a problem with the hitch dragging at a �level tow� setting you could pull the boat out with the hitch set higher then lower it before taking off down the road. Bet it won�t drag anyway unless it was already dragging when pulling it with a more stock height vehicle. If it does not drag when level on a stock vehicle it shouldn�t drag when level on a lifted truck as the hitch will be at the same height off the ground. Good luck.

It will wear your front tires on the trailer and probably tow better, these boats are notoriously tail heavy..

Just plan on buying some tires, but Id do what you have to do to set it and forget it.

I was having trailer nose bounce issues when I leveled the trailer with an 8" drop hitch (my suburban has a 3" lift on big wheels/tires). Ended up moving the winch block forward and setting the boat forward by about 6" to get more tongue weight. That solved the bouncing, but now I'm told by the previous owner that I'm gonna cause stress cracks on the hull due to the move. Paranoid me slid everything back to original position, and now I see daylight between the hull and the forward bunks. So I'm kind of in limbo at best approach.

Sorry got side tracked, you may see nose bounce if you're on a single axle like I did. Just depends on balance. My fuel tank is under the seats so that may be more the issue on mine.

I am assuming that if I use an adjustable unit at my driveway, I will be unhooking the boat, making the adjustment, then hooking back to boat?

Yep.

Probably just easier to adjust the trim on the motor. If you use a trim motor brace (aka transom saver), just make it slightly longer to move the skeg a little further back/up. Or, just trim up, back in, trim it back down. Just don�t forget to trim it up to drive out of the driveway as well.

said hes drag the back of his trailer

yes you would have to unhook to change the pin height, that is crazy talk unless you only fish once in a while.

Sure did! Sorry. Yeh....I guess trimming up the motor ain�t gonn do much for that issue. Lol.

Must be one hell of a driveway.

I'm a giant fan of B&W stow and go, its pricey but I always have what I need regardless of what trailer i'm attached to.

Had a light tongued boat also. Go to a welding shop and find a piece of steel stock (50 to 60 pounds worth) and strap it to the front part of the tongue.

Wpuld it be possible to get a couple of 2x12 and cut them to bridge the angle of the driveway? Put them down, back up or pull out, pick back up when finished.

buy a piece of lead from speedway motors, 50 lbs is the size of a valve cover. much more manageable