I have been having issues lately with getting through a full day of fishing without dealing with low power warnings towards the end of the day. I replaced all my batteries within the past month and still have issues. I am running a 36v Ultrex, 2 HDS12 Carbon's on the dash, a HDS9 Gen 3 up front, a HydroWave H2 KVD, and 2 12' Talons. I am very diligent about putting the 12's on standby when not behind the wheel and even power them off when I don't need to use the side imaging. I will use the HydroWave when im cranking or during the shad spawn otherwise I keep it off. I use the spot lock quite often, but it pulls from the trolling batteries and shouldnt affect the voltage level on the cranking battery. I have been considering either adding another 12v battery to run the electronics or possibly moving to lithium batteries.

Has anyone dealt with this issue and tried either the additional 12v or switched to lithium batteries and found either to resolve this issue?

I am running a Triton 21 HP Elite with a Mercury Optimax 250 Pro XS. Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks

I had a voltage drop to both of my units so I ran a 10 guage wire directly from the battery to both units with an inline fuse close to each unit and that solved the problem. I have two touch screen 12's.

I went to lithiums they are incredible I will post the facts for you.

I bought 50ah relion for my tm, 3 of them at 575 each.. (that isnt much more money than good agm batteries) Fully charged they test at 42.6 volts. AFTER a 6 hour day Sunday on spot lock or moving in a heavy current and wind with NO big engine running all day they tested 39.7 volts.. The lowest I have ever seen them test is 39.2.

I bought a 100ah start relion for my start at 1000 bucks and it starts the day at 14.63 and the lowest I have EVER seen it is 12.7.

Since going to lithium during a tourney I run my recirc on manual and my aerator on auto or full manual often and dont sweat it.

I did switch to a STEALTH complete charging system, it charges the start battery then when its full the charge on the run charges the tm batteries.

Total cost for my whole system was only 3575 shipped.

First, have you checked your batteries at the beginning of the day? It is possible that the talons or something else has pulled the charge down during the night. Do you have a cutoff switch so you can remove everything from the battery while it is charging? My start battery was to small to run all of my electronics and I had the room plus an old battery in the garage so I added it for all the electronics and the starter battery is just for the motor. Been doing a good job for the last couple of years.

What size is your start battery? I have 3 Helix 10�s, 2 at the console and 1 up front, 2 power poles which I use a lot, a fish guardian system and run aerator all day on a series 31 AGM, no issues.

For that load you will need a GOOD 31 series battery. Next would be how things are wired. If your graphs are running off the factory stuff then your just getting a big voltage drop. Also, make sure everything except the auto bilge and maybe the motor is on a cut off so you dont get battery drain while it's not being used.

Buy a Deka intimidator and will fix all your problems graphs now days are amp sensitive these will run 105Ah @ 20hrs, some guys are running the Duracell from sams and there made buy the same people from East Penn. with great results

If you have an on board charger that could be your problem. check each battery with a hydrometer after showing a full charge. I started using portable chargers because of same problems

More than likely your problems are caused by an inadequate battery. Group size 31 with 200 RC is the minimum for that set up. There are several good AGMs that have those characteristics. I run a Northstar that is a beast, but the Duracell from Sam's is a dang good one as well.

I replaced my deka intimidator with the lithiums. The intimidator did not run all my stuff.

I would highly recommend to move your inline fuses as close to the battery as possible so the entire circuit is protected

This x2.
Ever shorted a battery? Imagine that happening when you arent around the entire length of that wire before the fuse.

If you can afford lithium's I would say go for it But just adding a battery for the electronics is a hole lot cheaper that is what i did I added a group 24 wally world brand for just the electronics and it made a world of difference the same to run better and give less problems
I just have a hds 12 gen at console and a hds 9 gen 3 at bow with point 1 those lowrance unit really suck the juice more than lowrance is willing to admit to
I use a duracell group 31 for my cranking and tallons

So if I add a battery for electronics I'm going to need a separate charger?

I have a starting and a house battery. I installed a Blue Seas Add a battery ACR (alternate charging relay).

When my starting battery gets to 12.2 volts it charges my house battery.

Then when both of those get to 12.3 volts it charges my 36v lithium trolling motor battery. So motor charges all my batteries automatically with the starting battery as priority one.

I have a two bank charger that maintains all as well.

The 36v Lithium pros setup has the auto battery to battery charger that maintains off of the 12v battery. So it is a set it up install and then forget it.