Here is a tuturial on setting up and driving a high performance hull. You should find your solution in this explaniation. Thanks and credit to Basscat Boats for the info.

"Engine heights should be raised for hole shot and lowered as soon as the nose drops to improve performance. The engine heights are easily managed with the hydraulic Plate. Steering wheel torque running on the top end (full out) should be just tension to the right, not pulling hard right requiring you to hold or hang onto the wheel. The Gen1 Case is a good efficient case and allows you to manage the torque and gauge it easily. If your having to use your left forearm to hold or pull excessively, your too high on the plate. To stat run it way down, all the on the bottom, till you pick up the handling and seat time.

The height is easy, though overtrimming is the task at hand more so as you will want to play too much with that side, and that is more tapping in VERY short bursts. You have to allow the hull to develop performance which is why the description of driving your Bass Cat with trim and not the throttle comes out in conversation. As the nose drops over, tap the trim up in fast bursts to �free� the hull, quit when you just �free� the hull allowing easier bow control with the steering. Now start tapping the trim, tap run a 1/4 mile, tap it again, another 1/4 mile or so, tap it again and keep that process.

Torque is slippage and you want this controlled and lowered to manage prop rotation, which is always pulling the engine right.

Continue taps on the trim slowly till you have no torque and wheel control, holding slightly left. The nose will point just a little bit left, crabbing slightly left when running hard and pushing the envelope. That is propeller rotation compensation in the set up. Since the prop rotates right, the holding it slightly left should be no challenge.

Adjustments to the steering wheel are very slight once you have learned and have the plate and trim adjusted properly for your weight loads. It will require such a slight input from your left hand, held at 10:00 to 10:30 on the wheel, that you barely move the wheel. Movement is extremely soft for straight line operation as long as you don�t overtrim.

The fatty portion inside of the heeled your hand, behind the little finger and ring finger, is extremely sensitive and should feel the movement as the propeller slips slightly and the motor mounts compensate. That is when the slight pressure is felt. You will eventually learn to adjust the trim and pressure to keep that bow just slightly, 1� to 2�, left of center.

Its all about keeping the engine low, torque manageable and trim to a low enough level you can drive, with your skill set. Driving anything requires a different skill set than jumping in the same vehicle every day. "
BCB

I will also add that a bent, damaged or high pitched prop can make driving and tuning the prop height nearly impossible.

Good luck..

Engine low on a bass cat may be fine but not on an HP Triton, they like the engine high, most of them run best 2 1/2 inches prop to pad, I am assuming you mean engine heighth when you say keeping the engine low.

had a triton - mine was the same way ---great boat but was a handful to drive but you will get used to it - i have a skeeter now -you can drive it while eating a donut with a very full cup of coffee

Frank, do you even fish? No way you could as much time as you spend bashing Cowboys.

That surprises me. I thought Tritons were heavy hulls. My buddy owns a 20X2 2008 model and that sucker will fly and also cut through some of the nastiest wakes on the water. It seems very heavy. I would take the advice of some on here and get somebody that knows those boats to go out with ya. GL!

I have owned 8 Tritons and have a 2017 21TRX with a 300XS on it right now, it will run 80 plus, it drives like it is on tracks, the only one I had that gave me fits was the first one, a 1998 TR21, I did not know how to handle a high performance rig coming out of a Ranger, I think 90 % of the problem is the set up, if that engine is too low in the water it will be a bear to drive, my son has my 2012 HP, it is just like your boat, no problem driving that rig, we run a worked 26 Tempest in the cool months and drop to a 25 when hot, the engine prop shaft sets about 2 1/2 - 3 inches below pad depending on load. I had a 2008 20 XHP with a 250, it would run 81 gps, could drive it with one hand, I think it was the best boat Triton ever built. If that thing is squirrely at 60 I will bet a beer the engine is set way too low.

had a triton - mine was the same way ---great boat but was a handful to drive but you will get used to it - i have a skeeter now -you can drive it while eating a donut with a very full cup of coffee

This guy should know.

Engine height, prop selection, motor mounts, steering play, and a few other things all play a role in how a boat handles at high speed.

I've only owned 3 Tritons but I drove Allisons & Bullets before them so learning the Triton was pretty easy for me. I am happy to help you with your boat. I have taught a bunch of folks how to drive their boats. Had a couple guys swear to me their motor was mounted crooked and their boat was undrivable at 60+. Turns out it was old motor mounts, sloppy steering, wrong prop or a combo of them all.

You do own one of the faster Triton hulls ever made but it is manageable if you want to take the time & effort to learn how to do so. Even once you get it set up right, it will still require Driver Input. All true hi-perf boats do.

I'm down in your area once a month. As a matter of fact I just drove through Temple on my way home from Austin about 3 hours ago. I'll be back through in a couple weeks.

Shoot me a PM if you want me to help. Going out in the boat with someone that can show you what to do when the boat starts oscillating on the pad will greatly shorten your learning curve.

This guy should know.

Engine height, prop selection, motor mounts, steering play, and a few other things all play a role in how a boat handles at high speed.

I've only owned 3 Tritons but I drove Allisons & Bullets before them so learning the Triton was pretty easy for me. I am happy to help you with your boat. I have taught a bunch of folks how to drive their boats. Had a couple guys swear to me their motor was mounted crooked and their boat was undrivable at 60+. Turns out it was old motor mounts, sloppy steering, wrong prop or a combo of them all.

You do own one of the faster Triton hulls ever made but it is manageable if you want to take the time & effort to learn how to do so. Even once you get it set up right, it will still require Driver Input. All true hi-perf boats do.

I'm down in your area once a month. As a matter of fact I just drove through Temple on my way home from Austin about 3 hours ago. I'll be back through in a couple weeks.

Shoot me a PM if you want me to help. Going out in the boat with someone that can show you what to do when the boat starts oscillating on the pad will greatly shorten your learning curve.

I've owned quite a few Triton TRs, both 21 and 22. My 21HP is a different animal. It is the one the pros wish Triton still made. You do have to drive it, but it is fast. I've been around hot boats my whole life so driving a Triton is second nature to me. What Happykamper said is true. The first thing to look at on a chine walking boat is engine height. When the prop is too far down in the water, it tries to lift the boat, but it lifts it out of the water and it falls down on a chine. When you get the height set, just start bumping the trim up til it becomes uncomfortable. Keep a steady pressure on the steering wheel to the right. When you feel it starting to walk, lightly pull it to the right. It should pull it out of the walk. As you get the feel of this, you can bump the trim up, and keep using this maneuver till you can trim it to its optimum. It can be over trimmed. With a 26p you'll be running 75 before you know it.