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Skeeter ZX210c Feedback? #12944133 10/24/18 03:49 PM
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,096
barbarian Offline OP
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I’m looking for some feedback on a 2000-ZX210c with 225 Yamaha Vmax. Seems to be very little info on this model. Any real world feedback would be appreciated.

Re: Skeeter ZX210c Feedback? [Re: barbarian] #12944201 10/24/18 04:47 PM
Joined: Nov 2007
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ssmith Online Content
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pretty much same boat as a 300 zx a little under powered with a 225 but will preform good like all 21 ft boats it will ride good rigged several of them 62 to 64 gps mph hope this helps

Re: Skeeter ZX210c Feedback? [Re: barbarian] #12944530 10/24/18 08:41 PM
Joined: Jun 2012
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El Skeeter Offline
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Great Boat,lay out etc, however the storage under driver's seat leaks from rain. It's only rated for the 225, that motor is a workhorse, bullet proof as long as maintenance is kept up. Great rough water boat.
if you re looking to buy MAKE SURE you check for top cap separation where it connects to jackplate.
If Skeeter still made ZX210 I'd be buying it.

Re: Skeeter ZX210c Feedback? [Re: barbarian] #12992256 12/11/18 04:26 PM
Joined: Dec 2018
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shadyman Offline
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I own a 99 ZX210c for about 3 years now. Great boat, and fast hull, just not quite the same ride as a newer skeeter since the hull is pretty flat. Your speed is a little low. When I first bought mine it ran 72-73 mph GPS without anything in it and by myself. Same 225 VMAX with 25M prop. Once loaded out with all my tackle and partners tackle, which is way more than most, it would run 67-68. On a hot day loaded out 65-66. What prop are you running? May want to come up on Jack Plate too. The factory setting is almost always to low. Take it out by yourself and run it with normal load and raise jackplate until you get 15-16 psi water pressure wide open throttle trimmed out. 15 psi is the minimum water pressure for the VMAX. I had 25 psi before I raised it, but the cavitation plate was dragging in the water, should be just above water line for best performance. The boat will handle better as well.

Also, the VMAX has the O2 sensor which needs to be kept clean, inlcuding the small dogbone shaped transfer tube. Mine was clogged shut with carbon and had to drill out. When the O2 sensor gets really clogged it cannot be cleaned properly. I eventually replaced mine. When tehy get clogged and voltage to CDI is not not normal, the CDI will default to a premapped program to allow motor to run and function - but will lose about 5 or more mph. It might switch back and forth between normal mode and pre-mapped mode. O2 sensor in a 2 stroke is just not a good idea, but it works just have keep clean. If its carboned up and clogging frequently, and is really oily when removed, and the plugs are oily and not brown in color, and it smokes at idle alot - IT IS OVER OILING. Common problem: there is a link between variable ratio oiler VRO that connects to the middle throttle plate of the throttle body. The more the thottle plate opens the more it oils, simple. What I have discovered: there is a plastic clip that fits in the hole of the throttle plate link, this rotates and locks the link from falling out, the plastic clip will wear and get lose in the thottle plate hole allowing link to move with spring loaded tension of VRO and away from the specified positon. The plastic fitting is p/n 6R5-41237-00-00. On crowleymarine.com parts look up your motor, it will be item 20 in "OIL PUMP" section view. Most people will try to adjust the plastic threaded link on the other end that connects to the VRO but find the link runs out of threads and will grind off a few threads of the rod to get more adjustment - not realizing the plastic link is worn on the other end. I would replace that platic link joint as well since it is normally cracked around the threads. Item 23 p/n 6H1-41237-00-00 ($14.95). Again, if signs of over oiling leads to lots of problems, including excessive engine carbon, fouling 02 sensor, etc, a few dollar fix makes that engine run very well, and 02 stays clean for a long time - which is critical for the older VMAX.

As far as boat, if the back cap is loose it is fixable. Skeeter did a crappy job of joining the hull and cap back then. Most all old Skeeters have a loose cap in the back. Mine was really loose all the way around to the sides about a foot or so. Every time I would take off, it would take massive amounts of water. Once I fixed it, the right way, the boat is perfectly water tight now. Takes a good day or so to fix it right. It is rock solid now and better than when it was built new.

NOTE: My 1999 recently went to the grave. A ring broke on number 5, destroyed the piston, and led to a cracked block - and I cried. I and Hydro Tec Marine could not find a good block to rebuild it - just limited if any left. I just bought a 2006 HPDI from them. Point being I have disassembled my engine completely and have all the parts for sale. Tilt/trim is sold. My cowling is in pretty good shape, if yours is beat up. I also have two engine covers, one is a tuff skinz that is vented and stays on all the time towing and on the water, the other is a Yamaha VMAX cover just for towing. Both are ebay. I also have a good 02 sensor I will sell cheap. It is an NTK just like the Yamaha, but not a Yamaha p/n. NTK is the sister company of NGK. Once I fixed the oiling issue I have ran it for more than year flawlessly. Others have used the same non-Yamaha 02 sensor as well. I will sell for $25. A new Yamaha sensor 65L-8592A-01-00 is $350. They are the same narrow band 0-1 operating Voltage.

EMAIL ME AT kschaede@moog.com if you need any parts, or have any questions.

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