Sorry to post another prop question but I know zero about props.

What prop should I be running for better jump to get on plane?

2010 Frontier Bay boat (21'5 and a very wide beam bay boat). Running a 2008 envinrude e-Tec 150 saltwater series with 8" atlas jack plate.

Any advice on what to buy and from where? Currently running what came from the factory/dealer.

G.

Here's the clue ticket answer
When you prop to run at the top end of your motors rpm range everything works better.
All things being equal 1" of prop pitch will equal about 200 rms at WFO.

So if your motor wants to run at 5,800 rpms and you only turn 5,200 you'll want three inches less pitch. Your holeshot will be much better with the right wheel.

I've pulled my shoes off Pat to use my toes!

Now for the details, every hull/motor/prop runs different, and what makes a bass boat run best is not what makes a big CC run it's best, but the good news? There's props built for every situation. Bad news? That's a LOT of props....

If you brought it to me to setup, here's how we'd do it.
I'd take what you're running now to give me a baseline. So...what're you running now and what does it do?
The real question, where are you using it? If you're splashing around lake Travis, that's what we'd set it up, if you're really wanting to use it at the jetties, then that's a different need.

I'd probably be pointing at a four blade powertech offshore/flats blade prop, it would be your best combo for holeshot/big rough water and carrying a big load of people/gear. But first tell me what you're running, and what it's doing.

I'm running an Epic 22sc with a 175 E-Tec and a 10" jack plate. Slightly bigger and maybe just a few more pounds heavier but they have similar hulls. It came with a 17" Viper which is ok but not optimal. Gets on plane fast, has great acceleration and tops out about 50mph with my normal load. Down side is slow mid range and breaks loose easily in turns. I recently picked up a 19" Cyclone. A little bit slower on acceleration and lost a few hundred rpms on top (an 18" would probably be ideal) but it stays on plane at lower speeds, better midrange speed for the rpms and really holds well in turns and choppy water. For your setup a 17" Cyclone would be a decent all around prop.

Ok Pat - I've got some answers for you: with everything trimmed just right I ran around 4500 RPMs WOT. It ran about 42mph with 2 people/gear/abut 35 gallons of fuel. In talking with the mechanic he said the sweet spot for my motor was about 5800.

I'm running a 3 blade viper prop - 14 3/4 X 19. I did add some Bennet self leveling trim tabs and she jumped up on plane with no issues and I'll mainly be using it to get to spots on the coast to jump out and wade fish. Also I'm running 6" CMC jack plate as well.

Where do I start?

Geoff

First: 90% of your boats performance comes from the prop.
Until it's right nothing will be right.
Good news, there's some A+ prop guys in Texas.
Bad news, none are in Austin.
The few bucks more you spend with a pro to get it right the first time is a bargain compared to buying a shelf full of turd props.
I'd highly recommend calling a saltwater pro like Mike Hood to get you right there's other in Houston that are good to.
If you'd brought it to me we'd be looking at powertech four blade probably a OFS around a 16 pitch. But that would be a start to get a feel for what would really be the ticket.

So if I go with the 4 blade power tech you recommended - what size?

15-16" at most and that Viper you're running is too big. You need to drop down to a 16-17". With my 175 E-Tec and a light load it hits 5800-6000 with my 17" Viper. 4500rpms is way too low and is lugging the motor.

Looks like I can get it in a 15 X 16 4 blade. Are they easy to swap/need a puller?

PowerTech has 13 different model 4 blade props for V-6 outboards. Probably best to call them and see their recommendations. From the data you gave I'm betting a 15" pitch will be best. That extra blade usually pulls RPM's down 1-200 from a similar sized and type 3 blade.

PT is good to work with, they'll give you their best attempt. They make a rugged prop that works well for what it was designed for.
All that said, they aren't like a real prop guy that'll work out a run till your happy plan, even if you spend $150 more for a prop, it's the $600 on the props you didn't buy that makes it a bargain.

Hoods good, I went a little brain cramp, the one I couldn't remember was Bauman, he's probably the best on the coast right now.

Whatever you do, don't listen to a guy that just does bass boats, their heart might be in a good place, but what you want vs what they want is a complete different animal.

Bass guys want the last mph, which is great, but on the bay, your holeshot, carrying a big load, and the time you screw up and stay out a little longer than you should have and try to battle big water coming home is a different set of needs.

I've never set up a Bay boat I'll be the first to admit but I have set up my share of others over the years. A boat is a boat is a boat right! Some will disagree but they have to understand the concept of setting up a boat is the same no matter the hull. You're trying to find the right combination or happy median between hole-shot and top speed. The biggest problem in setting up any boat is prop availability. Unless you've got several buddies willing to lend you their props, it can get quite expensive the trial and error way. Few identical boats will run the same with the same set up so information from someone with a like or the same hull is only a starting point. Weight distribution, set-back, fuel tank volume and location, amount of tackle, livewell/baitwell location and volume etc.. play a huge roll in any setup. The one issue I see here is a 150 on a 21+ foot boat. Not knowing the weight of your hull, I would not expect it to jump out the water with any prop, thats a lot of boat for a 150! Larger hulls normally run better with a 4 blade to help with hole-shot and to help the motor carry the bow and some will lift the stern some as well. The more blades in the water at one time the better with a heavy hull. Your actual pitch is a combination of holeshot and RPM at WOT. Over the last 25 years I have set up and assisted in setting up many HP bass hulls and a few race hulls. I have seen many guys spend several hundred to a couple thousand just to get 2-3 mph out of a boat that was simply underpowered, when a $75-$100 plainer (holeshot plate) worked wonders. Many new props now have the PVS type system which allows you to tune the prop itself. Many custom guys can add them to just about any prop. Also, without going into a long story, motor manufacturers are allowed a 10% HP tolerance. Meaning, a 150 may be anywhere between 135-165 HP. Another reason that identical boat/motor combination rarely run the same setup and rarely run the same speeds. To each his own, you just have to make up your mind is it worth it to you!!

Lol - called both prop guys and both said to have my Tack checked because if it gets up on plane right like it is then I must be generating the right RPMs.

Prop guy #1 - send in your prop and I'll adjust pitchdownto 17" which will be better no matter what.

Prop guy #2 said the prop I have is fine and that a 4 blade would make it worse.

Scratching my head... gonna run it to record data and take it back to mechanic to read EMM to see if is theTack or my throttle control potentially?

Well there it is.
So get the tach verified. Then you'll know.
150 is fine you can prop it to do what you want.