Seems my trailer surge brakes are not working at all. Checked fluid reservoir, full of fluid, tried bleeding brakes at single axle brake hubs - no fluid will come out at all!

Is this an 'actuator' problem?

Since I have owned this rig for 1 1/2 years now, don't believe they have ever worked. Fear is since they have not been working and in and out of lakes, drum/brakes all are probably rusted and will need "work" ? or worse total replacement once actuator is replaced.
Is this worth it? Seems ongoing PIB to keep trailer brakes working....true/false ?

Stupid question, but you do have a brake controller right? I only ask because I fished with a guy once that was complaining about his not working and he never had a controller installed.

ah, no, everything is there from Stratos or whoever manufactured the trailer OEM.
Just no dang fluid will bleed out...
At a loss now

You have a brake controller in your truck though?

Yes, LOL, I remember and know that one. Had to buy yet another plug w/electrical controller connections to make computers in truck talk to trailer brakes in ??? whatever trailer has electrically actuated brakes....
Good point, LOL, yes have that...just no fluid coming from brake bleed ports at trailer brakes.
I'm thinking the dang actuator has stopped working some long time ago. I just never knew to check it! Dummy here..

Surge brakes !!!

Well I was hardly awake when I posted that and trying to be helpful, guess I should not try to be helpful at 5am

NO, not at all. I do appreciate any input Brad!!!
If I offended man, I offer apologies...

No offense taken Lee, after Re reading your post I think you may have it narrowed down to the problem. Sure someone with more knowledge of surge breaks will be along shortly to give you good advise. Hope you get it fixed up, I'll be checking back when I wake up.

The master cylinder can fail or the brakes slave cylinders stick from rust, or the brake`s need adjusted.

My entire system was shot on my 2004 tandem axle, so I replaced the entire thing myself. (new rotors, calipers, brake lines, and actuator). It was $500.

I would say, try different bleeding screws (driver side and passenger) and see if you can get any fluid to come out as you pump the brakes manually with a screwdriver. Take a screwdriver and check the master cylinder for rust.

How are you trying to bleed the brakes? I tried a MityVac, but that was a no go. I had to block the tires and compress the tongue a couple of times to bleed the air before fluid appeared. Mine were dry and probably hadn't worked in years when I got the boat. After I got them to bleed, they started working like a champ.

Drum brakes probably best to replace complete back plate. New shoes, springs and wheel cylinder. Or change complete system to discs. Is it a UFP system?

what size truck are you towing with. if your towing with at least a half ton truck and its not a big boat I would not worry about it. In fact last boat was a 20ft and I disconnected and had the actuator welded so it would not pop constantly.

and true. I had current boat trailer brakes get stuck engaged and I drove 10 miles before I noticed. Got hot, real hot. Which is probably why the rear seal just failed on a sealed hub costing 250 for the new hub. Next time these brakes fart Im disconnecting them also.