Link to My 1971 Ford Torino Build thread

This is my other hobby!!

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/makin-pr...tml#post1597236

Just getting started, but I always love new ideas.

Very cool. Here is mine.

Man that thing is nice...bring it over so I can test drive it for ya!

Thats an awesome story man, I really dig those Torinos for a lead sled. Thats a great recipe you got for it as well.Should be a beast.

Thnaks man...it'll be pretty nasty when I get it done....i'm just proud to have it in my garage

Look's like you have alot of work to do.you gotta love those old rig's though!!Can't wait to see the progress.

Oh man...sometimes I look at it and think to myself...how in the h@ll am I ever gonna get this done...but then I just have a few beers and get after it...very relaxing.

I had a 57 chevy stepside once and at the time I did not make much money so I sold it.I sure wish I had it today,I clipped it so it had power steering and power brakes, Man I loved that truck!

very relaxing

Updated: starting smoothing the bumpers. Check it out.

Looks good... One thing to remember is to keep welds and heat to a MINIMUM. The more the weld the more the heat applied to the metal, and this will cause warpage, bad. You can also use a block of brass or copper to help absorb the heat from the metal quickly. Remember to keep heat down at all cost. Instead of doing continuous welds, do tack welds (Body and Tin work only , light gauge metal) . If the part is small ,tack let it cool for a few minutes, the tack again. It the area is bigger ,tack, and move to the opposite end and tack and space your tack as far apart as possible . If it gets to hot let it cool and start again. Also when you go back to grind the areas down, same thing, avoid heat build up. Also you will need to cover any bare metal immediately. Harbor freight has a inexpensive paint gun kit/detailer for small spot jobs. Gets some epoxy primer and spray any exposed metal. Dont get to crazy on modifying it unless you have a big budget. Clean up the areas that need clean, paint , work on suspension and drive train and enjoy. If you keep the originality it will be worth more IMO.

Thanks for the info Tin Head!! When I weld or grind on it, I have the air hose out and immediately blow on it for a minute or two as well. I saw them doing it on one of the shows that I use to watch. Is that a good idea?

do you happen to have the 351C with the 4V closed chambered heads? I had a 72.

Sure anything to keep heat at bay is a good thing. Just remember to tack,move,tack,move,tack,move, let cool and do again. Dont cut more than absolutely necessary. This will help keep welding to a minimum. This will help lessen the final body prep work. If you dont start off right you will be fighting it all the way through.

No sir...car came from the factory with a 302...when I was in HS i built a nasty 351C for it and blew it up on George Bush Freeway when it was still being built...so I built the 302 that was still in when I bought it back.

Great advice....one more question...what gauge sheet metal do I use to make repairs?...obviously I'm going to order repair panels for rear qtrs and floors, but there are spots where I am going to have to patch...i'm thinking 16 or 18 gauge...not sure which one though....thanks for the help by the way.

Here is a little 302 I stroked out too a 331 a few years back. It had about 425 hp at the flywheel. She was a screamer.

what was it in?

I put it in a 82 foxbody, It was a pretty cool little car. Only car I ever built that would bark the tires going into fifth. That is the truth to, no BS.

All Scat rotating assy. 3.25 stroke on a 5.315 rod. Internal balance. She would wind up real nice and quick. Had 2.02 Edelbrock alum heads with a Edelbrok RPM intake, and a 650 Holley, it was pretty sweet.

16 Ga. for chevys, dont know about fords. Check your application with some calipers and match with the proper gauge.

Did a small sheet metal repair today...still working on it....take a look

Looks to me like you got a whole lot of room under that hood.....I would be thinkin 427 or 429 Big Block.....
Remember back in the day the motto was "There is no substitute for Cubic Inches".....

Ummmm.....a 514 stroker is a big block

that 331 is nominners motor.

Looks good Moto. I usually put a light on the other side of the panel to double check if anything has been missed, the light will shine through. Also , its best to cut out any old rust and replace with new metal, I am sure you know just a reminder, dont try and patch into the rust. Is the car a uni-body design or does it have a frame/chassis?

Yes sir...I cut out the rust and made a patch panel...it's a unibody...also...after I grind the weld...there is always a few small pin holes or just imperfections...how do you get these out?...or do you HAVE to use a filler product?

Either or will work. I dont like using fillers so I weld the pin holes in, practice will help in reducing pin holes. A tig welder would be best , but a mig is fine. Just make sure you are using the correct size wire for thin metal, http://www.airgas.com/content/details.aspx?id=7000000000143
Since its a unibody , over time they have a tendency to "sag" . I would try and get everything where you want it as far a squaring the car up and think about how much power you want to put in the vehicle. ALWAYS SQUARE THE CAR UP BEFORE WELDING AND RECHECK DAILY, IT WILL MOVE. The stock suspension points on most unibodys are weak , you might want to reinforce these areas for better handling if you want to put a lot of power to the ground. remember to keep welding to a minimum.

Tin Head...you are the man!!...when you make it over here to Texas you have a couple cold ones waiting on you!!

Finally got to do a little work on her...check it out.

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/makin-pr...od-story-3.html

Nice job Moto-Moto.

(by the way, I never let you know - I didn't find many Torinos in that salvage yard, but I was carrying an entire transmission, lol. So I only looked in depth at one, and it didn't have what you were talking about)

Nice job on removing the battery tray. I got to do some work to my Mustang this weekend - pulled off all the fenders and body panels from the front. That picture of the rocker panels - did you weld them or just sand them down? They look really good.

Thank you sir. Do you have a build thread on your Mustang? I did weld all of the holes on the rocker panel, and then my son sanded them down. He's getting pretty handy to have in the shop . Thanks for looking at the junkyard for me. Did they happen to have any Torino's there? I'm looking for some different stuff now.

How about a top loader to go with that 71. I have one.

what do you want for it? Do you have the bell-housing to go with it?

No bellhousing. I bought a 1971 wrecked big block mustang in 1981. Was going to install trans behind small block in 69 Broncho. Never did. It has been sitting in my shop since then. Comes with Hurst Competition Shifter with T Handle already installed. $500 will trade for gun. Austin Tx. area.