new blend door (temp) actuator "relearn"?

2000 Tahoe.. found several "how to" but they are all different procedures.. would like one that is proven before I start!.. anyone? thanks.....T

We just replaced my dad's and it worked fine. Didn't go through any post-installation "re-learn" procedure or anything like that.

was it like this one?

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=971105&cc=1371620&jnid=519&jpid=0

I just replaced mine in a 2003 Silverado that looks like the one in your picture....works fine after installing. No special relearn procedure....just plugged in and it works perfect.

guess we'll know shortly.. its in.. waitin' for tha thing ta build a little heat!.. strange there or so many different versions on how and what ta do with this one little part?

On my 98 Chevy pickup, I installed the new blend door motor, made sure all heater and AC was turned off, then turned ignition to on for a minute, then all was normal. Worked like new.

Yes that's the same one we put in.

How hard of a task was that? I need to replace mine on a 98.

If you just install it and don't calibrate them then your Auto air will be off slightly. Recalibrating them will learn their positions in between hot and cold. You can relearn them by disconnecting battery power for about 10 seconds. Reconnect and start the vehicle. DO NOT touch your ac controls for 1 minute while they recalibrate. After that you're good to go. Now I'll warn you if any of the other actuators are bad or weak, they'll fail during the recalibrate procedure because they are forced to their hard stops.

Easy unless you are a little too big to lay on your back with your feet over the back of the seat. Install it, turn the AC/heater to off, then turn the key to on for a about a minute. That's all that's required. No unhooking battery or anything else.

Not trying to argue. Only trying to help but just wanting the "correct" information to be out there. Battery or Radio fuse does the same thing.

Copied straight from General Motors Service Information-

Service Information Home Publications Number Search New Bulletins Bulletin Search Feedback Help


2000 Chevrolet Tahoe - 2WD | Sierra, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon VIN C/K Service Manual | HVAC | HVAC Systems - Automatic | Description and Operation | Document ID: 542069
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Actuator Description
The following six actuators control the automatic climate control system:

•The air temperature valve sensor and motor
•The vacuum inlet door actuator
•Four vacuum mode door actuators
When servicing an actuator, replace parts with the correct service parts for the actuator being serviced.

The air temperature valve sensor and motor contains a feedback potentiometer. The feedback potentiometer reports the position of the air temperature valve sensor and motor to the electronic climate control (ECC) module. If the air temperature valve sensor and motor has been removed or replaced for service the actuator must be initialized. Perform the following procedure in order to initialize the actuator:

1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
2. Remove the RADIO fuse for 10 seconds.
3. Reinstall the RADIO fuse.
4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
5. Ensure that the air temperature valve sensor and motor cycles through the hot and cold range.

I'm not trying to argue either. I just know what I did on my 1998 Silverado. And I did not disconnect the battery or pull the radio fuse. And it worked till June 2013 when the insurance company totaled it.

BTW, you didn't say so I'll ask. Have you replaced a blend door on a 1998 Silverado?

Yes sir I've done a few to say the least. Been a GM A/C tech for the past 25 years. Forgot to mention that a 2000 is a total different bread than a 1998. They changed body styles on trucks in 1999 and suv's in 2000 totally changing the A/C systems. I didn't answer Brian's question on difficulty because that is relative to ones abilities but I agree. Hardest part is positioning to reach it.

door is workin' fine now (all doors) but still no heat front or rear.. motor is comin' up to 196 (scanner) really slow.. only one heater hose gets hot tha other just warm... makes no difference in "automatic or individual controlled... gonna do a back flush and t-stat change next.. anything else ta look for?.. we did a coupla purge rounds ta rid any air pockets.. did manage ta get a little warm air a few times when holdin' 2000 rpm for a few minutes when doin' tha purge... but back ta cold air now with "normal drivin'"?

Did you try the back flush? That's a good start. If it is bad enough to clog both cores then make sure you do a good cooling system flush. Prestone makes a flush called Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner. It has always worked good for me.

"unbelievable"! after all this finally found tha problem... somewhere down tha line heater hoses were replaced.. they were backwards to tha heater cores.. my "genius" kid found it 5 minutes after lookin' at it... never registered with me.. would blow a little bit warm at idle but go cold when revved ever so slightly.. really showed my intelligence.. Ha!