Bobber Stoppers

It seems that when I use bobber stoppers and peg the weight against the bait I have much lower hookup percentage. Is there something to this and is there anything I can do to improve hookup ratio.

What hook and bait are you using? And what action /power rod?

Large worm or beaver/creature bait. Usually owner offset hook. All star or Temple Fork medium heavy action. 20-25lb seaguar invisx

Use a straight shank hook

and snell knot

I don't worry about the snell. I have seen how it kicks out the hook- but I retie too often

understand that haha I get in a hurry and don't do it a lot of the time

I don't like the stopper at all. It is a rubber bumper in front of the weight and will drag over a limb just enough to feel like a bite. I do not feel for the bite. I feel for resistance. When it is grabbing everything under the water that is resistance. I use the peg-its with the round ends on tungsten weights. They have a slit in them for the line to rest in which centers the line up on the weight. They are easily installed and removed from the lead weight when changing weights. I always peg when fishing heavy cover on T-Rig and also on my C-rig because I don't fish deep with the clacking sound technique.

I love a bobber stop. I slide it about 2" above my Texas rig sinker.

Helps get a lot of hang ups lose in brush piles.

Use a sraight shank flippin hook.

been pegging mine for 30 years with a round tooth pick.push it in from the bottom firm and break it off slide weight back down against worm.

Same here. I use "Peg-its".

a peg it makes the line go through the weight off center... I only use bobber stops. easier, cheaper works better in my opinion. It is more weedless imo as well

Shaw Grigsby had this same issue. a unpegged texas rig will get you better hook up ratios then a pegged one

I use peg-its

I used the Greg Hackney Perfect Worm Hooks. They have a bullet style weight molded on the top of the hook. I use it when I'm fishing heavy cover and want my weight pegged. Bobber stoppers are about the only thing you can use on tungsten weights with inserts. I can't seem to get the peg it through the tiny hole.

I bought some peg it's and could never get it to actually work. I know it's user error, but I gave up. Not sure if it's braided line or what, but never actually pegged anything for me.

My experience with inserts on weight is they cut or fray the line. With a un-pegged weight and trying to fish the middle of a thick bush your bait will hang on a limb and the weight will separate from the bait. It will never get through the cover and the results is fewer bites for me.

I regularly use bobber stoppers. An inch or two above the weight on a T-rig and also to splitshot a weightless type bait on a windy day. If you have trouble with them slipping try some designed for the next line size down from what you are using.

I guess my concern is the bobber stop is pegged so tight to the front of the hook that it's causing some kind of interference with the hook when I set the hook.

Do you have the same issue with a medium heavy rod?

+10

I use something similar as well. The weight is molded directly to the hook. That's my primary worm "hook/weight". When they first came out (30 plus years now that I know of), some said they were easier for the fish to "throw" the hook, but, like I said then and still do, if that is true, I guess you better never use a jig head.

"I always peg when fishing heavy cover on T-Rig and also on my C-rig because I don't fish deep with the clacking sound technique."


I don't use a "clacker" style on C-rigs either. I use a modified "Carolina Keeper" system for C-rigging. By using those, I only have ONE tie in the rig and feel i have less chance of breakoffs because i'm only tying once. I also like to use Lindy style weights, as I feel they get caught up less than egg/bullet sinkers. By using the keepers, it's also much faster to change leader length. Here's some pictures of what I'm talking about.


http://www.basspro.com/Lindy-Rattlin-NoSnagg-Slip-Sinkers/product/30018/


https://origin.ih.constantcontact.com/fs111/1102441262068/img/1966.jpg

I don't peg it RIGHT up against the knot... But even then, I think there are situations where you get hung less and get more bites pegged. THAT SAID, fishing upright salt cedar, I will go weightless sometimes, it seems like it gets more bites some days.

+ 1

That's probably true, but it has nothing to do with using a bobber stopper or a toothpick or whatever the other favorites are. Just pegging the weight right up against the hook is what causes this. It is the difference between the fish having the entire rig, weight and all, in its mouth versus having just the worm and hook.*

Try this: Rig a line with a hook and weight, put the weight against the hook in the palm of your hand, put the line between your finger and thumb, lightly (or tightly if you want) pinch the line in that finger/thumb crotch. Now pull the line to try and pull the weight/hook past your closed thumb. Do the same thing without the weight. Which one has the least resistance?

Note: Don't jerk on that line like you are setting a hook unless you want to next learn hook removal techniques.

I use bobber stoppers to peg. How far away from the hook depends on the situation, but if it is right up against the hook, I just remember I need to set the hook a little harder to get that weight past the fish's lips so I can drive the hook home. If they really eat it and it is further back in the throat, this is not as much of an issue since you have some room to set the hook before the weight is against the back of the lips.

*Yes, a jig would be similar, but the orientation of the line eye kicks the hook to one side or up and catches flesh. These pegged worms are pulling in a straight line.