The last two cars I bought were 0% and that meant zero. There wasn't anything hidden.

I paid 2.2%last week on a new Avalanche. Dealer beat my credit union.

24 or 36 months?

I just like to beat up on Car Sales People until I get the rate and payments I want. Nuff said, Hey Monty, I got a 99 Burb, you willing to Trade some - lol

If rebates were always the better deal, that's all they'd offer. For expensive cars, the 0% can be a much better deal than the rebates.

Also, not all dealerships offer in-house financing anymore. My brother is a car salesman and they just have a list of lenders that they use for trying to get buyers financed. Of course, if it's a new car, your best bet is probably to get one of the manufactuer-subsidized low rates.

As some other guy said, I think 0-3 percent is good for new cars, and 2-5 percent is good for used cars. Anything higher than 5 percent means you should look somewhere else or your credit is questionable.

The biggest thing to consider is how long your going to have the vehicle or how long you plan on making payments on it. Lost count of how many ignorant people i sold cars to that took the 0% and then payed the car off in 2 years. Take the rebates and don't pay above 3%. Also depending on your down payment the GAP insurance will also be a waste of money.

If you don't have the money to pay cash, you get hosed.

If you can't afford a brand new set of wheels, you likely will screw up on payments if any type of life event happens and lose the vehicle while tanking your credit.

Pay cash and drive what you can afford. Do you really have to have a brand new shiny set of wheels?

I drive a 92 Silverado that I own free and clear. My wife drives a 97 Cherokee that we own free and clear. Everybody else on our block drives a payment.

Sorry to the salesmen here. Just calling it like I see it.

I will pick up my new truck today and I received 1.9% on my new truck through the dealer. It was better than my credit union.