I am looking for a good alternative to the over priced Yamaha Yamalube 2-M that I have run out of. I have a 2005 Yamaha
175 HPDI. Anyone have any good ideas?

Quick Silver Premium Plus some say there HPDI runs better. I run it in my Yammy.

premium plus runs good in my hpdi.$19.99 at academy

For $20 you can buy yamalube.

where? cheapest ive seen it is $23 i think

Lots of guys running the Pennzoil XLF with good results,they claim the HPDI is the application its best suited for. Its quite a bit less expensive compared to Yamalube.

Ive owned three yamahas and never run yamalube. Knock on wood but my 250 runs fine on penns.

SuperTech from Walmart or Pennzoil.
I knows guys that run both of these with no problems. One has over 800hrs with the SuperTech

I just spent 39.52 for one gallon of yamalube.. If this other stuff is just as good I have wasted a fortune already.

This same question came up on the BBC and a lot of guys said the HPDI ran better on Quick Silver but there where some that said oil is oil don't make one better than the other. But 80% run Quick Silver Plus.

If the quicksilver works it is significantly cheaper I believe. But if your already paying $20 a gallon or more why risk it? I run only yamalube and I get it from Rockwall marine for $20-$21. Wish I could buy it bulk. I just don't think a dollar or two is worth possible motor trouble. Jmo

I also run ring free and startron/ stabil every tank. Pretty expensive but the way I look at a new motor is a hell of a lot more.

If you buy yamalube out of the bulk tank at fun n sun in hurst it's only 25 a gallon. A little more than other oils, but but cheaper than a new vmax.

I was told once by a shop that the reason it is recommended to run ring free with yamalube is because the yamalube has more carbon in it, thus the ring free to help with the build up of carbon. I run Merc. oil in my Yamaha, granted it is only a 90 HP, but I have not had a problem yet.

Been running the Chevron Lubricants outboard oil that Fun N Sun has in bulk for a while now. Runs clean and engine seems to be smooth. No issues at all.

Best thing to do is if you have no problems don't change find where it's cheaper and get it there. Every one will give you a different answer but in the end it's your motor you pick what's best.I would rather pay a little more than buy a new motor like said above.

If you spent that I suggest you take it back and get your money. The most I have spent is $20 plus tax.

Here is my take on oil. My son has a 150hp Yamaha on his 02 skeeter.
The Yamaha oil runs reel dirty thus the need for ring free.
He decarbonized his motor twice with 2 can of cleaner to get the carbon out.
He started running the 100 to one even-rude synthetic oil.
He has been running this oil for four year.
The synthetic oil burn so clean he not had to decarbonized his motor.
The plugs come out looking like new no carbon them.

I have a 150hp Johnson on a 1998 triton tr-18.
I run the 100 to one even-rude synthetic oil this engine is a carberated motor.
Every one acts like I am crazy for paying $48 a gallon for oil.
My old Johnson starts easier and dose not smoke and the plugs come out clean.

I would recommend full synthetic oil in my engine!

There are allot of good oils out their!

Quit being cheep your oil is the life blood of your engine!

Which is cheaper a new power head $2000 or more or your oil.

Don't confuse cheap price with cheap oil. They aren't necessarily the same.

Yes, Yamalube does dirty up the 02 sensor. Had lots of 02 issues with my 2001 225 VMAX early on. Haven't had any issues since switching to Pennzoil, Quicksilver and Citgo in 2002. Seems to run best on the Pennzoil Synthetic Blend.

Full synthetic would be even cleaner.

Just try to keep carbon to a minimum. Run a good de-carbon product like SeaFoam or RingFree.

Yep, I add seafoam, startrom and blue stabil.

Thanks for the advise. I bought the Quick Silver Premium Plus. I hope this doesn't sound like a dumb question, but does it hurt anything to pour it in my oil tank that is half full with Yamalube 2M.

As long as the oil have the bia industie's same spec it wont make a differance.

I've heard not to ever mix oils but who knowns

I've run Merc prem+ in my yamaha's for 11+ yrs.. They’ve all been HPDI's, a 150 and a 225.. They ran better with it, than the yamalube..Obviously 11+yrs, and much more than regular use is a testament to how good it is.. I do run ring free.
I can’t argue with the synthetic oils being overall superior, it’s all I run in the crank cases of every combustion engine vehicle, mower, etc, we own. It extends their life by 2+ fold IMO… I just don’t run it in my Outboards, prolly should..

Run your oil resevoir down as low as you feel comfortable, then add that Quick Silver.

I did this years ago when I switched from using regular Pennzoil to 100% Pennzoil Syn, did't hurt a thing!

Ran the tank down to about a 1/4 and poured a gallon of Pennzoil Syn on top, that was in 2003.

Will using a brand other than the manufacturer's suggested oil potentially void your warranty? In other words; if they find you're using a different brand oil and there is an engine failure will the manufacturer use this as reason to not warranty the engine?

I have run my Pennzoil in my 250 HPDI since I bought it 2 years ago with no problems.

They can not dictate what oil to run only what certified specifications (tcw3) it has to meet

Cabela's sells their own brand of oil that I put in my 2005 Yamaha. It is a couple of bucks cheaper.