Just how hard is the surge brakes supposed to slam back and forth on an normal takeoff and stop? I sure cannot tell if the brakes are even engaging at all. How do yall "test" them to see if they need tightening up or somethings wrong? Also had a leak of some brake fluid around the tounge of the trailer were you fill it at. Where could that be from?

It sounds like you have air in the lines. I had one with a removable tongue and I'd have to bleed it every dozen times I disengaged the thing.

You can do it easier with a power bleeder. There is a way to actuate it to do it manually but its a pain.

You think the leak could be air pushing back out the filler cap? Makes sense, i will do alittle readin on the best way to get air out of these surge brakes.

you can easily check to see if your brakes are working. Unplug the trailer lights from the truck. Put the truck in reverse and back up. If the trailer brakes try to lock up. The brakes are working. If you have a leak near the master cylinder, I would check you brake line or fitting first.

When you apply your brakes if it slamming real hard, you are probably out of fluid becaus of the leak. You should also check the reciver hitch on your truck. After a while they develope a lot of slack.

I don't know what the new Ranger trailer brakes look like. On the tongue if there is a round unpainted metal (around 3") plate, you can twist it a 1/4 turn or so and remove it. You should be able to see the hydraulic fluid. If the level is down more than 1/2 inch from the top I'd first add some fluid.

That won't fix your problem as you probably have air in the lines. You need to have the brake lines bled. Any decent mechanic who has a fluid extractor can do it.

If your trailer actuator looks like this one, the round black cover on the blue cover is where you need to look. There is another plate underneath it that you have to take off to see your hydraulic fluid.

Had the same problem on my '07 trailer. The hydraulic actuator was leaking and had to have it replaced. If it's not under warranty, grab your pocketbook. Would have cost me $ 400.00 + if my extended warranty would not have been in place.

I'm having the same problem and mine looks just like the one pictured above. You can buy the internal assembly for $149.00 which is what I'm going to do, mine has a broken shock inside is what they think. Go to their website I think it's UFP Produts and they are 60 series. If anyone knows of a better option please let me know.

My trailer tongue looks just like the one pictured also. I havent had the boat very long but on all my other boats I always unplugged the trailer lights before backing into the lake. Electrical current in water just spooks me for a short out. But on my trailer it will back sometimes with lights unplugged and sometimes it want. Tires lock up. Why is this? Thanks

Ok, Robert at Diamond Sports Marine at Fork says the Master cylinder is bad, they are ordering me a new one and I will take it back to have it installed. Under warranty.

Do you use just regular car brake fluid for surge brakes?

Regular brake fluid is good. When you put the vehicle in reverse it electrically charges a solenoid to keep the brakes form engaging. If you unplug the lights there will be no signal to keep the brakes from locking up. If you are getting a slamming feeling when you stop it is low on fluid.