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#6576922 - 08/30/11 10:45 AM Popping Cork
Ambrot Offline

Registered: 12/01/10
Posts: 373
Loc: Coppell,Texas
Hey guys, what kind of popping cork you like for red fish?? I prefer stuff I can easily get a Bass Pro. Thanks!

#6577042 - 08/30/11 11:09 AM Re: Popping Cork [Re: Ambrot]
crawdaddct Offline

Registered: 04/30/11
Posts: 428
Loc: Kingwood, TX
I use weighted corks for Reds and specks, so I can site cast to where the fish are. Flounder, I use small unweighted corks, because im fishing next to the boat and want to see and feel them hit. I dont realy worry about brand.

#6577659 - 08/30/11 01:35 PM Re: Popping Cork [Re: crawdaddct]
SeaAg2015 Offline
Green Horn

Registered: 05/23/11
Posts: 19
Loc: Galveston, TX
Get yourself some maulers they've got a cork
on a piece of wire and the cork moves freely on the wire. They work very well for me.
Do a google search if you don't kniw what I'm talking about.

#6577737 - 08/30/11 01:58 PM Re: Popping Cork [Re: SeaAg2015]
The Trout Scout Offline
Pro Angler

Registered: 01/15/07
Posts: 888
Loc: Copano Bay, Texas
I posted this article on another web site back in October 2003.

I made a living and supported my family while guiding and using a rattling cork for 9 years.

No doubt - the rattling cork - it is the most effective way to catch fish year round.

THE ALAMEDA RATTLER: Tips to rig it and use it

The Alameda Rattler, reddish orange top/green bottom (and even the reddish orange top/black bottom in the real cold of winter) has proven itself to be a very effective cork/float. Whatever you choose to call it - cork or float, it is very effective for catching trout, redfish, flounder, drum, shark, etc. It has some advantages that other corks don’t have. Rigged and used properly it can be used year round with live shrimp, recently alive shrimp, fin fish or soft plastic lures. So here are some tips on how to rig it and how to use it.

Using a SPRO #8 barrel swivel 50 lb. test. from the bottom of the swivel with leader attached slip the leader through the top clasp and pull it tight. The SPRO#8 swivel has less “play” or give to it, thus giving you a quicker feel when the fish bites. If it’s a trout when they feel that hook they can spit the bait quick, so you better set that hook quick, this is where the SPRO #8 swivel helps in that regard as it gives you a quicker feel on the bite.

After you tie your knot on the swivel, hold your line tight against the swivel at the top of the Alameda Rattler and pull your leader through the top clasp on the top stem. Wrap your leader 3 times around the top stem, up to five if you can, and pull your leader through the long slit on the side of it down to the bottom of the slit. Hold your thumb in the bottom of the slit just above the bottom stem preventing your leader from coming out the slit, and wrap it 3 times around the bottom stem, slip your leader through the bottom clasp and your set to set the length of your leader.

I use at least five wraps on the top stem and 3 wraps around the bottom stem of the 3 1/2" Alameda Rattlers. Using five wraps or more takes some skill. However, you’ll have extra line to lower your depth and/or cut off an inch or so of leader above your hook because of line fray from so many game fish bites. Thus, you will be able to maintain the proper length of your leader when clipping the frayed area next to your hook from trout and red bites. Just retie your hook and cut off an inch of leader due to teeth abrasions from game fish on bites on the leader near the hook. You can unwrap a bit on either the top or bottom stem of the Al. Rattler to keep the length the same after you clip the frayed leader when you retie your the hook.

Length of leader: as a rule of thumb, 20 -22" of leader is sufficient to work 2 - 6 ft. of water. However, I make some for the real skinny water I fish, with only 16- 18 inches of leader to switch to on an as needed basis when fishing 1 – 2 ft of SaltH20 for reds and flounder.

Having the skill to use this wrap method also will allow you to change from the 3 1/2” Al. Rattler in 2 – 6 ft. depths, to the 4” or 4 ˝” A. Rattler when working shell depths over 6 ft. plus quick. When using the Alameda Rattling Cork I fish 99% of the time with the 3 ˝” Al. Rattler because it’s “sound” is just right and it is not to big and won’t spook a fish when it lands on top of the water in shallow water. However, the difference in size does matter for deeper water 6 ft. or over that you are fishing.

I also like to take off the Al. Rattler and free line for reds and flounder underneath the trout or when fishing passes with good current. Consequently, if you can use the wrap method, just take you’re Alameda Rattler off and free line…or just wrap it back on and “go up top” for trout. In the event you are wade fishing, the wrap method is important as it will allow you to free line guts with good current or use the Alameda Rattler to work the grasslines next to the gut and work your bait/lure as you see fit against the shoreline.

The bb’s in the A. Rattler imitates the sound of shrimp migrating in the water. Pop it often, keep the slack out of your line and don't be afraid to make some NOISE with it. That's what the concave top is for. It is to help this cork/float to make a sound like a trout hitting the top of the water feeding when you "pop" it. So you have two things attracting the fish, the sound of shrimp from the bb’s and the sound of trout feeding by making a “whoosh” noise on top of the SaltH20 with the concave top it. It will attract the fish!

In fact, when I first throw it out, I “pop” it three times in a row to try and imitate a mullet skipping across the water likes it’s being chased by a big fish. If a mullet is being chased by game fish, you can usually count on at least three skips out of the water by the mullet, so I try and duplicate that nature scene with my initial cast. Then after your initial three “pops”, pop it at regular or irregular intervals, depending on the clarity of the water. Muddy water you’ll find that it needs a steady “pop. Trout green water, it’s a variable pop,..let it sit…jiggle..pop…sit them BAMMM!!! Or it could be 5 seconds – pop, 10 seconds pop, 5 pop – 15 seconds pop – 8 seconds pop and so on…and then, pay attention to what rhythm the trout are attracted to at that locationand stick with what’s working. If your in shallow water or see a fish working close to your Al. Rattler, just “jiggle” it a bit, instead of popping it and tease the game fish, that’s another effective use of the Alameda Rattler. Once you get this technique down, All it takes is confidence and knowing where the fish are!!

As far as leader there are two types. An inexpensive leader I use is 40 lb. Stren clear mono for leader. When you “pop” your Alameda Rattler it makes your shrimp come to the surface and then drop down. The 40 lb. mono gives you more buoyancy and the shrimp falls at a slower rate than with 20 lb. leader, thus giving the trout a better shot at your bait. A bit more expensive, but more durable against fray from gamefish teeth and less visible in the water that I am also use is Seaguar 20 lb. Fluorocarbon leader I am using it with good success and it doesn’t fray as quick from trout and reds teeth. When the bite is on strong and steady for most of the day, especially during the fall and spring; and, your catching lots of fish, most leader will get frayed quick. In the event you hook into the trout or red of your lifetime during steady action for the better part of a day’s fishing, then during the latter part of your days fishing you may need or wish you had that extra durability and strength of the 40 lb. Stren clear mono or at least 20# Seaguar Fluorocarbon leader.

The Alameda Rattler is effective with live shrimp or recently alive shrimp over grass and shell. The A. Rattler is also effective with live pin or piggy perch rigged using single/circle hooks underneath it in deep shell or around deep shell pads around wells.

Using the D.O.A. or Berkley Power Bait shrimp tail lures, Tidal Surge split tail soft plastics, touts or even using the SW Assassins underneath the Al. Rattler is effective in the fall and winter if you’re a lures only type of angler.

If your rattler has water in it the bb’s in it won’t have the right rattling sound needed to attract the fish like the patented Alameda Rattler so change it. Believe me, little things do make a difference, especially when the catching is tough or slow. That’s why I like the Alameda Rattler.

Just think of the Alameda Rattler as a top water lure with a shrimp/soft plastic trailing it. Both rattling top water’s, and rattling corks with shrimp/lures underneath are effective for attracting trout,… and big ones at that. That’s because trout and reds can hear. But, that’s another article.

With the Alameda Rattler making noise up top and with a live shrimp or pinfish, or a slow sinking soft plastic underneath it, then you have the best of both worlds and your fishing will be catching…..year round!

#6580417 - 08/31/11 06:46 AM Re: Popping Cork [Re: The Trout Scout]
Skunked Again Fishing Offline

Registered: 07/23/09
Posts: 271
Loc: Austin
fishntexas has a 5 part series on catching trout and redfish. He makes good recommendations on the float and how to rig it.
I don't fish often; when I do, I fish in any water, but prefer salt
YouTube Channel:

#6585525 - 09/01/11 11:43 AM Re: Popping Cork [Re: Skunked Again Fishing]
Jefe Offline
Extreme Angler

Registered: 05/26/09
Posts: 2174
Loc: Houston TX
+1 on the Alameda...though they can be a real pain...dont even bother if you're using braid

#6587781 - 09/01/11 09:19 PM Re: Popping Cork [Re: Ambrot]
TOO Offline
Extreme Angler

Registered: 06/06/02
Posts: 2830
Loc: San Antonio, Texas USA
Originally Posted By: Ambrot
Hey guys, what kind of popping cork you like for red fish?? I prefer stuff I can easily get a Bass Pro. Thanks!

As TS mentioned, I'll use an Alameda rattling float. Lot of what he posted is fundamentally good information. Read through it and modify to your needs when fishing. Alamedas are available at the S.A. BPS store. Get the weighted ones.
I run the hook 24"'s below the Alameda when fishing 3' and deeper. I've fished the lower leader length as short as 6" under the float when fishing shallow pot holes/grass flats.

Jefe, related to the Alameda and braid, I've found that when using braid to tie a shock leader of Fluoro or mono to your braid. 4'-6' should work. Wrap your Alameda on the leader again right at 24" and I have never had a Alameda come off, which it will do if you wrap the float on braid, as you probably know.
I don't use a swivel just a 5-6 loop surgeons knot and it has never failed me. This is with conventional reels.
On spinners with braid or mono I tie a swivel and 2-1/2' to 3'-ish mono/Fluor leader below that and put the Alameda under the swivel. Keeps the line from twisting with spinners. Never had that problem with casting reels.
Hope this helps.

BTW, I always use a wide gap/Kahle hook if using live shrimp, usually 1/0-2/0, maybe a 3/0 if expecting reds.

Edited by TOO (09/01/11 09:45 PM)
Foot Fishing the Coastal Bend©

#6588720 - 09/02/11 07:31 AM Re: Popping Cork [Re: TOO]
crawdaddct Offline

Registered: 04/30/11
Posts: 428
Loc: Kingwood, TX
Does anyone use Cajun Thunder? I saw a guy buying a bunch and he said he loves them. I bought a couple to try out this weekend.

#6589220 - 09/02/11 10:05 AM Re: Popping Cork [Re: crawdaddct]
fancast Offline

Registered: 01/27/11
Posts: 86
The Cajun Thunder is ok,if your not drift fishing. I think the metal wire is too long and i find myself having to sweep the rod more. The Doa Cork is alot better for Drifting.

#6590366 - 09/02/11 02:49 PM Re: Popping Cork [Re: fancast]
Gaff Offline

Registered: 02/21/10
Posts: 225
Loc: Angleton Tx
Yep, Cajun Thunder I've been useing them for the last few years and they have been great for Me.

#6601456 - 09/06/11 11:21 AM Re: Popping Cork [Re: Gaff]
Garfish 3 Offline
Pro Angler

Registered: 04/05/08
Posts: 568
Loc: Cypress, Tx
Originally Posted By: Gaff
Yep, Cajun Thunder I've been useing them for the last few years and they have been great for Me.

"Hurry up! We're burnin' daylight."


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