Kayak PFD- Personal Floatation Device 1 of 3 items required by law while kayaking on Texas waters
Not all PFDs have the same Coast Guard safety ratings. Your PFD should fit you right & be able keep you afloat in an emergency situation. Nice Paddler PFDs starts around $50+ & $90+ for an inflatable(not on sale). Angler PFDs have a few pockets & comfortable ones get worn. The more you wear it, The more likely you are to survive a close one. Academy carries MTI, extrasport, & Stern PFDs extrasport & Stern are normally less expensive of these 3 brands. Stohlquist has also made quit a name in the sport. Most Kayak shops offer TFFers at least 10% off. Not all Walmarts carry Paddling PFDs. Most Yakers use a US Coast Guard Class type III PFDs. All PFDs serve the same function but some excel while most just met the minimum law requirements. Children 13 & under are required to WEAR their PFD while on the water.
Game Wardens, Park Rangers & Lake Patrol want to see that you can easily access your PFD within 3 second. Stowing your PFD can result in a Ticket or much worse, because not having a PFD on when you need it, is not in your favor. Your life is worth more than the cost of any PFD. One major difference you'll notice in a kayaker's PFD is the over sized arm holes & all around general comfort. Look for one w/ reflective straps. They prove themselves when paddling in low light conditions or fishing at night. Kayak shops can be a good source. Ordering online cost less & shipping is sometimes free.
what model/brand did you get Shaun? I have an agler PFD, has more padding in the back than i like, but i really like all the pockets. I wear mine 100% of the time i am in the water.
I picked up the Extrasport "Sturgeon". http://www.extrasport.com/product/pfds/canoe_kayak/sturgeon.aspx It is SSSSOOOOOoooooo...nice compared to the old bass boat PDF it replaced. This one actually fits and doesn't ride up. Also the padding on the back is higher up, making it tremendously more comfortable to sit in a kayak for 14 hrs.
I have two extrasport kayak pfds, 1 angler and 1 rec.
I have one pfd with me at all times... However, the only place I don't wear it is lady bird lake, during the day. If I'm out at night (no matter where), or anywhere else it is on. Even on Lady Bird it is tucked right behind my seat.
I keep my rescue knife on me at all times.
I'm in the market for the NRS Chinook as my next PFD.
Edited by Fishing Fedora (08/01/1108:57 PM)
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Ocean Kayak PBG, Humminbird 160, square center hatch, deck lighting, all that good stuff... basically more money in accessories than I spent on the boat itself, and it came with the seat and paddle, so that's saying something.
I need a good rescue knife. I currently have the larger version od a folding "old timer" great knife, but would like a double sided fixed blade, something with an ankle/calf mount would be ideal.
I'm sure fish zombie will cover rescue knives in a future post. I'm not a fan of double sided knives.
(CRKT bear claw for me)
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Ocean Kayak PBG, Humminbird 160, square center hatch, deck lighting, all that good stuff... basically more money in accessories than I spent on the boat itself, and it came with the seat and paddle, so that's saying something.
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Ocean Kayak PBG, Humminbird 160, square center hatch, deck lighting, all that good stuff... basically more money in accessories than I spent on the boat itself, and it came with the seat and paddle, so that's saying something.
Great post! That orange thing in the top right hand corner.....is that what I think it is?
Whistle/Horn Item #2 required by law while kayaking on Texas waters
THE LOUDER THE BETTER!
Used to warn others / get attention. Especially useful when you become injured/stranded & or just need help. In low light conditions/night time you cant be seen but you can be heard. Most anglers won't use there's until they are stranded, injured or need help. A good water proof whistle/horn, like the ones shown above can help alert others of your location & possible danger. Remember, Not everyone has 20/20 vision & boaters often get too close especially on lakes. People are curious & want to see/identify what they can't make out. LETS NOT RULE OUT THAT THEY MIGHT HAVE THERIR heads where the sun dont shine so, if you can't be seen, at least be heard.
FACTS: Sound waves travel better across water. Sound waves travel better at night. You'll wish you had one when you need it. Useful on & off the water. You can't use it if doesn't work or you don't have one A loud WATER PROOF noise making device can help save you and others. IT'S THE LAW!!!
Registered: 04/26/02
Posts: 8684
Loc: At the Terrell WalMartz
Originally Posted By: fiSh ZoMbiE
Originally Posted By: roadtrip
Great post! That orange thing in the top right hand corner.....is that what I think it is?
Whistle/Horn Items #2 required by law while kayaking on Texas waters
THE LOUDER THE BETTER!
Used to warn others / get attention. Especially useful when you become injured/stranded & or just need help. In low light conditions/night time you cant be seen but you can be heard.Most anglers won't use there's until they are stranded, injured or need help. A good water proof whistle/horn, like the ones shown above can help alert others of your location & possible danger. Remember, Not everyone has 20/20 vision & boaters often get too close especially on lakes. People are curious & want to see/identify what they can't make out. If you can't be seen, at least be heard.
FACTS: Sound waves travel better across water. Sound waves travel better at night. You'll wish you had one when you need it. Useful on & off the water. You can't use it if doesn't work or you don't have one A loud WATER PROOF noise making device can help save you and others. IT'S THE LAW!!!
I carry two whistles, one on my pfd and one clipped to my "canoe bag". I've got the old school looking whistles. I test 'em when I'm doing my pre-trip check list. Most of my equipment is old school. I definitely need to upgrade on my knife though.
Ziplock Freezer Bags, Dry Boxes, Tupaware, Dry Bags & Dry Sacks are all things that we use to protect our Wallets, Keys, Batteries, Phones, Extra Clothes, Flashlights, First Aid Kits & hand held devices from the elements. Walmart sells a 3-pack of "Dry Sacks" (water resistant) for around $10. These WILL slide around in your yak.
I prefer this dry bag by Marine Raider. Ruined many of cell phone before I realized the value of a nice dry bag/box. Around $20 at Academy. Also comes in different sizes & colors. This bag has a soft rubber bottom that prevents it from sliding around in the kayak Sea Line also makes a nice Dry bag IMO.
360 White Light Bright is the key here! & the 3rd Item required while fishing on Texas waters (dusk-dawn)
Why? For your SAFETY & because the law says so
Exert from TPWD site: …All vessels including motorboats, sailboats, canoes, kayaks, punts, rowboats, rubber rafts, or other vessels when not at dock MUST HAVE and EXHIBIT at least one bright light, lantern or flashlight visible all around the horizon from sunset to sunrise in all weather and during restricted visibility…
Law goes on to state: light must be visible from up to 1 mile away.
•All other manually driven vessels """"""MAY""""" exhibit sidelights and a stern light, """""""""OR""""""""" shall ~~~EXHIBIT~~~ at least one bright light, lantern, or flashlight from sunset to sunrise when not at dock. IMO Sunset to Sunrise is vague. So, Think of it like driving your car. 30 min before dark & thirty min after 1st light, have that bright 360 light on http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/fishboat/boat/safety/vessel_requirements/#canoe Advertised as water proof, 3 AAA batteries I also strongly recommend a waterproof style 360 light & a headlamp as BACKUP. If your batteries or bulb on the 360 light burn up, at least you have some light (head lamp) so you can seen & be seen. This will not prevent you from getting ticketed but could still save your life. Walmart around $8 each Up to $8 for a 2 pack at Academy. LED style should last several trips without having to replace the batteries. I normally toss mine after the batteries go.
Was in my powerboat one night not long ago when I came right up on 3 jet skiers with no lights idling in open water. They had to get out of my way. Glad they were able to! You will not be able to get out of the way of a boat traveling 35+ Mph
We use things like waterproof "Dry Paks" & Heavy Duty ZipLoc Freezer bags to protect our phones Just make sure you close the double zippers well & don't forget to leave a little air in any bag you use to insure your phone will stay on the surface. Leave your phone in the bag. It's not necessary to take your phone out of the bag to use it. Trapping humidity in the bag will ruin your phone too. This trick is good for boat & bank fisherman. I have started putting my phone in my PFD this way. Works nice!
All paddles are not created equal. Paddles Article <-click here Most vets will tell ya that. They will all get you moving but some excel & are builT with superior adhesives, plastics, resins, etc. The others will get the job done but can make you sorry you decided to purchase them. Ever been up the river with a broken paddle? How about in the middle of the lake in foul weather with one? I have I thought it looked like a good deal but turned out to be a dud. That said, It's always a good idea to keep a spare below deck for times like these. Here are a few brand name Paddles: (Notice the different shapes of these blades) Carlisle Bending Branches Werner Z&J SPORT Aqua Bound... These paddles can be well over $200.
So far I have had good luck with the cheap $30. Marine Raiders from Academy. Then again I don't expect them to last more than 2 yrs. They will make a good emergency paddle when it does fail :~)
Registered: 12/30/08
Posts: 589
Loc: Smithson Valley, TX
I wear an Onyx paddling vest in the summer months And I wear an inflatable Onyx in the colder months when I don't get into the water much Since I started fly fishing and wade a lot i've started wearing an Onyx waist pack inflatable that you pull to engage incase I step off into deeper water or get hurt on rocks while wading. Just for extra safety.
Why? In case you get entangled in your anchor line or someones trot line. Even better, to tether a pair of dikes to your jacket. Say some dummy decides to use illegal cable for his trout line.
One of our buddies recently got a big kahle hook in his leg while fishing off of the second sandbar. He had to wait for one of us to swim out & cut the line because he didn't have a knife or dikes on him. Luckily we saw him waving & whistling. He was pretty shook up but very thankful! Could have been a lot worse! The hook was so deep he had to run it through his leg & we cut the shank to remove it. Fish Rivers & Creeks? Watch out for limb lines & log jams. They are notorious for grabbing you with old rusted hooks & line you can't break. Better to be safe than sorry IMO.
Lots of links on this topic. I prefer a hand basket. It works better for my yak set-up. I can carry mine with one hand when fully loaded without loosing any gear. Make one or more, any way you like. What ever works for you, will usually depend on what type fishing your doing & your personal preferences. Although, not a necessity, it can really help yak anglers get organized to carry virtually anything ya need be kept within easy reach. So set it up right for you. Virtually no wrong way or limit to rig one. Add a lid, bungees & clips to secure your gear & clips to secure your basket to your Yak. Add Multiple rod holders & an extra fillet knife, camera pole, emergency para-cord, a cover & a 360 light - No Limit
I used to not wear a pfd in the yak because it wasn't comfortable. Until the infamous pelican sink. Just got the NRS Chinook and all I can say is now I never take it off. Spend the money and get the right one and you wont have an excuse to not wear it.
I used to not wear a pfd in the yak because it wasn't comfortable. Until the infamous pelican sink. Just got the NRS Chinook and all I can say is now I never take it off. Spend the money and get the right one and you wont have an excuse to not wear it.
Insulated Coolers, Fish & Cooler Bags: Small coolers will fit in the tankwell of most yaks. If your cooler won't fit in, strap it across the yak. Cut the handle off, add some stainless hardware & a lil modifications will make just about any cooler a nice "yak" cooler. This one is not quite custom enough IMO.
Mount rod holders, a 360 light holder, camera pole, a flag pole. Adding an internal compartment can help organize your gear inside. The other compartment can be used for drinks & snacks or ice down your catch on a warm day. Freezing your non carbonated drinks & pre-chilling your sodas will almost illuminate the need for ice. If its real hot, make ice blocks by freezing water in a plastic or metal container. Ice blocks take up less space & last longer than crushed & cubed ice. Almost any large cooler can be secured across the top of almost any yak & can be nice on long trips & over nighters. Add a block of dry ice to increase the life of your ice. Not as well insulated as a hard cooler, cooler bags can be nice on short trips.
Fishbags come in many sizes shaped and colors. They are more ideal for BTB, reef or rig fishing because they can be strapped to the top of your yak (front or back). They will hold longer game fish & catch less wind. Add chunks or whole ice blocks to help cool your catch.
Stern cooler bags can hold your munchees & drinks. Velco hatches are convenient. A bag will often fit where hard coolers won't.
Great info. I like a pair of needle nose, hemos and side cutters. I like a serious set of side cutters for big hooks, a smaller pair is good for those hard to reach accidents .. but:
And I use a boga grip type deal to get the fish in the boat, but a big pike, musky or striper flopping around can lead to trouble.
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"All that we call human history—money, poverty, ambition, war, prostitution, classes, empires, slavery—[is] the long terrible story of man trying to find something other than God which will make him happy."
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Ok, the Great Zombini asked me to post a little bit about dry ice. As an ice sculptor I've worked with solid carbon dioxide more than the average person probably has.
1) Don't touch it with your hands. Wear gloves when handling it.
2) Don't put it directly on your cooler. Line your cooler with newspapers.
3) Don't put it directly on your food, beer, or fish.
4) Do place it in the bottom of your cooler in a nice layer on top of newspaper and then cover it with newspaper. For long camping trips put your food directly on the top layer of newspaper. Pack with forethought. Put the stuff you are going to use last on the bottom. Put the stuff you are going to use first on top. Pack so that you can have the cooler open as little as possible everyday.
5) Do place regular ice directly on the top layer of newspaper. The dry ice underneith will make your regular ice last much much longer, even though you might be regularly opening this cooler to retrieve beer or add fish.
That's all I can think of about it at the moment. Any questions about using it just ask.
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Originally Posted By: chikenfrie
i like to go to party city and stay lit for 2 nights.
Oh... yeah. Don't use dry ice in an airtight cooler. If you do vent it. As the carbon dioxide evaporates it expands. Might damage your expensive cooler...
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Originally Posted By: chikenfrie
i like to go to party city and stay lit for 2 nights.
Don't put anything under it. Except newspapers or a towel to protect the cooler. Use dry ice on the bottom. Cover it with newspaper or a towel. Also fill up all the space in the cooler as best you can when using dry ice for long trips. The extra air in a half empty cooler will speed the sublimation of the carbon dioxide.
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Originally Posted By: chikenfrie
i like to go to party city and stay lit for 2 nights.
Krogers has most locations. It is usually in a small chest freezer at the front of the store. I think it is a three or four bucks a pound, so yeah it ain't cheap.
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Originally Posted By: chikenfrie
i like to go to party city and stay lit for 2 nights.
Registered: 07/20/01
Posts: 1465
Loc: Wylie, TX, USA
Originally Posted By: karpbuster
I like a serious set of side cutters for big hooks... And I use a boga grip type deal to get the fish in the boat, but a big pike, musky or striper flopping around can lead to trouble.
Go to Lowes and get the 8" bolt cutter they have compression assistance and I have yet to come accross a hook they cannot cut. With the lifetime guarantee you can take them back once the hardened hooks have eaten up the cutting blades.
I use a floating fish gripper rather than the boga for the simple reason the boga will spin and the grippers will not. They are more economic than the boga but the control is the real reason I use them. You can get a good spring scale and it has holes drilled in the gripper if you must have a weight on your catch.
_________________________ Bert
"Ipsa scientia potestas est"-Knowledge in itself is power - Sir Francis Bacon
"Beware the lolipop of mediocrity, one lick and you could suck forever" - unknown author
When I go fishing my focus is on catching big bass. I don’t want to be worrying about my equipment or safety. I am also a true do-it yourself type person. If I can build it cheaper and maintain quality I’m all for it. That was my mind set when I decided I needed a light for my Kayak. After several failed attempts (and a few wasted dollars) of making my own I found a product from Yak Attack called the “VISI-Carbon Pro. The VISI Carbon Pro is built around a carbon mast that folds down to three 14” easily manageable lengths. Inside the tube is an elastic cord that runs the length of the tubing allowing the unit to fold flat on itself. Simplicity at it’s finest! Mounted on top of the carbon mast is an extremely bright 360 degree, 2 led light. On the Yak attack website they boast 100 hours of life with the three AAA batteries used to power the light. I’ve had mine for a couple months now and it is still just as bright as the first time I turned it on.
The body of the light was specially designed to mount a flag secured by two small bungee cords to the shaft. The light is easily turned off and on with a quick turn of the diffused light cover. It’s a nice design that won’t allow the light to accidentally be turned on and drain the battery. On the body of the light you will find marine grade reflective tape. I didn’t realized how well it worked until I saw it reflecting light as I was walking up to my kayak at night. The orange (also offered in green) flag is 6”x18” and is constructed of two ply nylon. It’s a nice size of compromise between improved visibility and keeping the drag down from the wind. One end of the flag is sewn shut while the other is left open with two pieces of Velcro sewn in as to create a bag. That’s correct, the flag also doubles as the storage bag to store the complete unit. What a great idea to save space!
Yak Attack offers different mounting options where the shaft connects to the kayak,. Ram, Mighty Mount, and Tallon are all available. The base is covered with a buoyant foam allowing the entire light assembly to float in case it is accidentally dropped overboard. They had the forethought to make the outside diameter to fit in the flush mount rod holders on my Outback kayak. In the event the kayak overturns there is an elastic tether securing it to the kayak. I’ve been using the VISI-Carbon Pro for a few months and am impressed with the illumination provided by the light. It’s so bright that I also use it to illuminate the area while preparing my kayak and fishing equipment in place of a flashlight. While in the kayak the height that it is mounted behind me doesn’t blind me while fishing. Although I really appreciate the visibility the flag offers me I often forget it’s back there until I am fishing heavy timber. I love to fish back in heavy, nasty stuff that most people will go around. Sometimes the kayak will just barely squeeze though. Being mounted in the rod holder means that the light is kicked out to the side of the kayak like a rod would be. This is no problem in open water but if you are trying to squeeze through trees on both sides of you it will hang on the light/flag. This has allowed me to see the durability of this product. On numerous occasions I have hung up on trees, branches, vines, etc. I will tell you first off that the VISI-Carbon pro was NOT designed to scrape bark off a tree, be bent over backwards, or stressed out like I have done. However it has proven to be very durable and I have certainly put it to the test!
In conclusion, I’ll say that I’m extremely impressed with the design of this product. This light is well worth the investment and I would recommend it to anyone. It was money well spent!
Pros-- *Very bright light *Long battery life *Collapsible and compact design *Fits in it’s own bag (The flag) *It floats *Reflective tape on the light *Lightweight but extremely durable *Tether to secure to the kayak
Cons-- *Haven’t found any
Shaun Russell russell.Shaun@ymail.com northtexaskayaker@gmail.com
EDIT: While I was at the Grapveine fall G2G I had two boats come close to hitting me. I was fishing on that point across from the boat ramp and had a bass boat come by at 60+ mph straight towards me. He missed me by about 100yrds after seeing me later then he should have. And then later a group of drunken skiers came even closer that almost put me in the water. It can be crazy out there on a busy summer day at the lake. People just don't seem to take safety seriously. I don't want count on them paying attention to their driving to see me.
I'm sure you remember the man and family that got ran over last July4th weekend. That was at night.the officials reported that they had insufficient lights on their kayaks. Last week in Californina there has just been another article of a guy being thrown from his kayak when a 30'boat almost hit him during the daytime. It goes on and on with stories of kayakers not being seen both at night and during the day.
Hey, I love kayaking. Most of the time I try to fish back in the trees away from boating traffic. But sometimes that's not where the fish are. I want to take every preventive measure I can not to become the next target for boaters that might be paying attention to kayakers in the water.
Guys this is a great product for improving a kayakers visibility that I believe in! I've been using it for awhile now and know it's built very sturdy and does a great job. If you don't get this product then please get some kind of product that will protect you both at night and during the day.
For lakes, rivers/creeks & BTB many of us use a claw style folding anchor. They are versatile, inexpensive, light weight & don't take much room, making them easy to stow above or below deck.
Many BTB anglers say the Bruce Claw Anchor holds in the sand better than the Folding Claw. Folding Bruce Anchors can also be found for BTB.
Leaving your claw anchor folded up then held closed with a large rubber band or bungee can be an effective way to anchor while river & creek angling. Others use Approx 3-4' of large chain attached to the end of a dog leash or rope while creek/river fishing These referred to as "Drag chains" or "Drag Anchors" See a fancy Drag Anchor being made <-Click it
Letting out more rope will hold you. Letting out less rope can slow your drift. This allows you to cast many time into a river or creek hole. Some use this method to drift fish all waters rather than using a drift sock.
Adding a length of chain to any anchor will increase it's weight thus increasing it's potential to hold. NOT RIGGED PROPERLY. $20 Bye Bye
A floating white nylon anchor rope at 50' length works well IMO. I have been able to hold in 30' plus even with 20mph winds. The trick has been to get the anchor to lay over, then get out all the rope before pulling to stick. The deeper & harder the bottom usually the more line & weight you'll need with any style of anchor. Dragging a anchor will most times get it stuck! Bouncing it off the bottom won't allow it to stick. How you rig it will greatly increase or decrease you chances of being able to retrieve it when it does...
Yep got to rig it right, lost my new 4 dollar one the other day.
Another thing I've done is rig up my own rod leashes that'll reach from the rear rod holders to the frot of my seat. If I dump over they'll probably come out of the holders but they won't end up on the bottom of the lake.
Okay the thing about folding anchors is that you can get them back pretty easy if they get stuck on something in the briney deep. That is if you have rigged them right. The idea is if your anchor gets hung up you want to be able to break off where it is normally attached to and be pulling it from the top of the anchor which will allow it fold down and release from whatever is holding it. Here is a drawing:
where you attach your anchor line with the zip tie you can use a small ziptie or a piece of wire. You want it strong enough to hold up to steady pressure of being anchored up but weak enough that you can give it a sharp, hard yank and break it free.
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Originally Posted By: chikenfrie
i like to go to party city and stay lit for 2 nights.
I fish mainly rivers, and I made two mods that made my access and trip much more comfortable. I addded a "airhead bungee" between my anchor and boat, and added another to my bow line. This makes a huge difference, if you are ancoring in current or walking 1/2 mile plus upriver.
You will rarely need much more than a brick as an ancor to hold yourself in a kayak. I recommend just using cheap ancors. Bricks, dumbell, ...
xtools are a kayak and braid fishermans dream.
I prefer to make sure everything floats instead of having it teathered. You dump your boat with stuff tied everywhere, and bad things could happen. I understand that you can cut yourself free with a knife, but I woudl just avoid the whole fiasco.
Of 15 years of kayak fishing, I have only accidently turtled 3 times. Two of those I saw coming. Other than BTB launching of course.
Don't ever plan on paddling with a stringer or bait tank in the water.
Drift Socks/Chutes Come in many shapes, sizes & colors. They can turn an very frustrating day into a successful day of catching. When winds are blowing too fast a drift chute can be deployed to slow you down. This will allowing you to present your baits the way you want. Another way to use this chute is to catch tides or current. A drift chute is typically tied to a short length of rope or a shock cord between 2 and 6' long then attached to the kayak with a carbiner or clip. Attach the drift sock to your trolley system or clip it to your pad eyes on one side of your yak. Using some sort of shock absorber is recommended. Attaching the sock to your trolley system will allow you to position the chute anywhere along one side of your kayak for a better drift. Don't forget to add floatation to the clip side of your chute or you WILL LOOSE IT! You can send the chute to the rear of the yak to point your nose down current or down wind, in the center of the kayak for a perpendicular drift or near the front to put the nose up current or upwind. $20-$55 depending on size, manufacture & material. .......
Re-entering your yak Of course the idea is not to fall out or "Turtle" as we call it But, it happens to everyone at least once. Today's Angler style Kayaks are pretty stable. It's only happen 2x for me in fresh water & the second time was in around 12" water (Old Sit In style Yak) It usually happens when ya lean too far (off to left or right side) or step out into what you think is shallow water IMPORTANT to know your yak's limitations. They're all different.
We recommend you practice falling out and re-entering with any new yak at least a few times in a swimming pool or 4-5' shallow water 1st. ALSO IMPORTANT: Practice with just a paddle, PFD on & your Yak. NO GEAR! If it happens unexpectedly we hope someone gets a pic or video & post it here.
Hopefully youve rigged right & your gear is FLOATING all around you. If you can't get back in or on, Don't Panic! Simply grab what you can & throw it into the yak. Then, hold on to your kayak & swim/kick it back to the shallows or bank.
There might be a photo of Someone Turtling around here somewhere
I use the Dry Pak for my cell phone. My cell is also in a Lifeproof case which is waterproof.
One thing I added to my winter gear was a box of waterproof matches and a firestarter. Being up creeks or across a lake if I take a spill I may need to get out and by a fire quickly. Both items together weight less than 5oz and are in a pocket on my pfd.
Registered: 03/20/12
Posts: 174
Loc: Lufkin, Texas USA
Originally Posted By: DEERSTRANGLER™
I use the Dry Pak for my cell phone. My cell is also in a Lifeproof case which is waterproof.
One thing I added to my winter gear was a box of waterproof matches and a firestarter. Being up creeks or across a lake if I take a spill I may need to get out and by a fire quickly. Both items together weight less than 5oz and are in a pocket on my pfd.
I use a padded Dry Pak and my phone is in a Lifeproof case also!
The Lifeproof is waterproof and I have tested it inadvertantly.
BigDozer66
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"...one Nation under God, indivisible, with liberty and justice for all." Ocean Kayak Trident Prowler 13
I use the Dry Pak for my cell phone. My cell is also in a Lifeproof case which is waterproof.
One thing I added to my winter gear was a box of waterproof matches and a firestarter. Being up creeks or across a lake if I take a spill I may need to get out and by a fire quickly. Both items together weight less than 5oz and are in a pocket on my pfd.
I use a padded Dry Pak and my phone is in a Lifeproof case also!
The Lifeproof is waterproof and I have tested it inadvertantly.
BigDozer66
I like the shock value to people when you wash your phone off under the faucet.
Registered: 03/20/12
Posts: 174
Loc: Lufkin, Texas USA
Originally Posted By: DEERSTRANGLER™
Originally Posted By: BigDozer66
Originally Posted By: DEERSTRANGLER™
I use the Dry Pak for my cell phone. My cell is also in a Lifeproof case which is waterproof.
One thing I added to my winter gear was a box of waterproof matches and a firestarter. Being up creeks or across a lake if I take a spill I may need to get out and by a fire quickly. Both items together weight less than 5oz and are in a pocket on my pfd.
I use a padded Dry Pak and my phone is in a Lifeproof case also!
The Lifeproof is waterproof and I have tested it inadvertantly.
BigDozer66
I like the shock value to people when you wash your phone off under the faucet.
BigDozer66
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"...one Nation under God, indivisible, with liberty and justice for all." Ocean Kayak Trident Prowler 13
Registered: 03/20/12
Posts: 174
Loc: Lufkin, Texas USA
Originally Posted By: sTODDh
I like the Lifeproof case. I need one of those.
I have had people tell me that they qren't paying that much for a case ($60 instead of $30) and I say well when you have to pay $400 or $500 for a replacement that extra $30-40 won't seem like much will it!
BigDozer66
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"...one Nation under God, indivisible, with liberty and justice for all." Ocean Kayak Trident Prowler 13
Why? Because big can bite hard & some fish have mouths full of big teeth especially saltwater fish. Grips help you control the fish with or without a net. There are several brands out. Some work well a few times then fall apart or fall out and sink Look for * FLOATING FISH GRIPS * Why buy the expensive Boga Grips when you can a floating fish grip that weighs less, cost less & float too?
If you have Boga Grips already, attach a BIG float to them before you take them fishing or you'll be sorry! We have found that plastic grips hold just as well if not better than the more expensive stainless grips. Perhaps a few of you who use these can chime in on what brands work best ?
idling in open water. They had to get out of my way. Glad they were able to! You will not be able to get out of the way of a boat traveling 35+ Mph
I thought it looked like a good deal but turned out to be a dud. 
to everyone that is contributing to make this thread work.
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