I was thinking of using a 1/8oz jighead, do I need to step up to 1/4oz because of the braid - supposedly they float?

No, I use 1/8 99.999% of the time, no issues.

that is it in a nutshell. Don't neglect to set your drag properly. I too have had a rod broken but it was because I wasn't paying attention to my drag.

I remember throwing Kelly Wigglers with a Abu Garcia 1000( my first Baitcaster) and 10lb line,Matching red Abu Garcia 7 ft Popping rod........I Slaughtered the Reds and Trout on that rig when I was a kid...

Dunno how anyone is breaking any rods, considering I haven't broken a rod in all my time fishing, but braid does do a number on your rod. Braid has alot of sensitivity, but I prefer not to use it due to its nature. It doesn't stretch at all, has alot of memory in the Texas summer heat, and it can and will damage your rods. I think you're vastly overestimating the redfish you're gonna catch, but better to be safe than sorry, I guess, but 10 lb. mono should be more than enough for anything you hook into.

Personally, I throw 6 lb. test mono. It works great on my 7 ft. rod with 2500 capacity reel, and I feel that I can catch pretty much anything of a decent size in saltwater or freshwater. I've caught huge bull reds and jack crevalle wadefishing with it and it is more than sufficient With 10 lb. mono, you'll have that extra little bit of leeway. You don't need a swivel and you really don't need to worry about rod breakage, as long as you use mono.

With braid, the temptation is to use it to its capacity, which your rod and reel combination is not built for. Your reel will only have a max drag capacity of around 12 lbs., so any force over about 18-20 lbs would be a test of your max reel capacity and your rod flex. Obviously, 30 lbs. is significantly more than this number. Having your reel on it's highest drag setting and rod above its rating also decreases performance and longevity. Braid is quite resistant, however, but when you tie on a section of leader, it only adds another potential problem to your rig. The rule of thumb is to use as few knots as possible, because each knot is a potential failure of your rig. So, if you're gonna use braid, tie it directly to your lure. Otherwise, you're still gonna be fishing mono/flouro anyways.

You know on the flat white sand of LLM, that rig might work just fine.

6 lb mono on a oyster reef is history. 10 lb mono on a reef is a gonner. Twelve pounds of snagged grass on a redfish run makes mono a gonner.

All I know, I take a lot of people with me, many of them talk the same garbage I'm reading here. ALL of them are buying braid the next night.

6 lb mono on a jack? Better have the motor fired up when he hits, you'll be chasing that unit quite a while.

Garbage, huh??? Alright, whatever... You like braid, fine. I could care less...

It's no big deal to me, use whatever you want. I totally understand if you don't have the skill or ability to fish lighter test than 30 lb. braided line. No worries. I fish the Galveston Bay. I fish plenty of shell on my wades and I fish reef when I get the chance to get on a boat. My 6 lb. test holds up more than sufficiently.

You can take your garbage fishing skills and go somewhere where someone cares. Everyone is on here trying to help out other anglers and get tips ourselves. No reason for you to come on here and disparage other people just because they don't agree with you. We all have our different experiences and level of skill, but if you're gonna throw mud, you should probably find another place to do so, sir.

The man asked for our opinions, and he obviously is fortunate enough to get four pages of replies. I'm sure he'll take in the advice and find what suits him and his abilities and methods. It serves no one any good, especially the people asking for help and advice, if you go about trashing everyone else's ideas and suggestions. It's counterproductive, to say the least. We're just offering suggestions for the man to try.

Well dj, I have to say this. I have been using braid for a long time, it doesn't have any memory that I've seen (don't know what Texas heat would have to do with memory anyway) and have yet to see a rod damaged by using braid. Maybe those cheap Academy rods if you have the drag tightened up. I use the 20# Power Pro, it far more sensitve and tougher than mono. My only complaint is it gets wrapped the rod tip alot in the wind.
And as far as catching Jacks with 6# mono, lets just say I would have to see it to believe it.

You know it's really exciting when we get to be in the presence of master anglers. I am truly humbled.

For us mere mortals,most of us have a better day on the water, and enjoy ourselves more using what I recommended. Sorry we can't get into the zen utopia of playing a four pound redfish for twenty minutes.

Most of my inshore tackle is spooled with 20lb Power Pro. For the most part it is as heavy as I'll ever need. However, I have one redfish hole that is adjacent to an oyster covered seawall. Because of the wall's close proximity to the hole the reds will run for the wall after taking your bait/lure. This requires that you use maximum drag to turn the big ones and horse 'em away from the wall.

I've pulled some mid 40 inch reds off that wall. Then there were some that I couldn't turn which led to broken rods or broken line. Just the cost of doing business.

Go fish with the 10lb rig and have fun. As time goes by you can add heavier tackle to your arsenal. It took me years to acquire all of my tackle. I'm still acquiring new gear all the time.

The main thing is get out and fish. The experience you gain will be priceless and you'll learn first hand what works best and what doesn't. The goal is to have a good time doing it.

+1 I stay in the bays, fish 10 lb. mono and have only broke off once. Have yet to lose any sleep over it, much like this post. He11 I'm havin' to much fun!

Well, fastpitch, I just think you should probably look on the Power Pro website and read about their product. Everything I listed, and more, are obviously factors when using braided line, and it is specifically listed on their website. The distinction between Power Pro and some other braided line is they have tried to do their best to manufacture a product to limit the majority of those negatives. Don't get me wrong, Power Pro is definitely a tried and true product, as well as some other braided and fused line, but the points of contention I brought up are acknowledged by those companies as well.

Now, we can debate all you guys care to debate, but when the website of a braided line manufacturer lists the same cons that I am listing, I'm pretty sure that perhaps a few items I have mentioned are correct. I don't care about your specific fishing situation or whatever else, or any snarky comments from Goff.

As I said before, the guy came here to ask for advice. We're all trying to contribute with our input and experiences in helping a fisherman make a choice. Hopefully, he will take in all the information and make his choice.

Some people like chocolate, and some people like vanilla. Personally, Power Pro is the da bomb! I feel every strike, don't lose near as many fish, casts like a dream. I especially like it when going after flounder, 'cause you can really stick you some flounder with it!

The difference being I gave my opinion and advice based on personal experience, not something I read off a website.

All I know is from experience. I was fortunate to use the very first braid brought in from Terry Oldham in the early 90's. Everything else followed. I know pride would prevent you from admitting it that day, but you get on my scooter and after a days ventures, you'd be the FIRST to stick to your plastic line.

I understand there's a small percentage of zen guys who get all the fun they want out of wearing out a few fish a day, I get it. You also are in the vast minority. I want to go catch my reds, then all my trout then every flounder I can get on. That's what gives me joy, and most of the time anyone with me has a good time too. Breaking off, losing fish to a poor hookset, watching a trophy unit spool you off just might be the thrill of your life, but it's not mine, I want my mitts on that fish, then I can decide what to do with it.

So, I also give knowledge on experience, mine and the people I associate with. You go have fun, and so will I. Different doesn't mean wrong, it's just different.

I started to read ... then got a headache.

I say try them both.
Take a trip out with both lines spooled on 2 rods.
Throw them all day.
Make your decision.

Regardless, hope you catch fish!

I agree

If ur gonna go light better have at least 15lb braided line.... mono aint gonna make it down here in on the LLM. Snook,Reds,Flounder, Trophy trout love the oyster beds...

Funny, my style / experience is closest to that of djdiggydiggy, but after reading this thread i'm considering giving braid a try for the first time. Gotta love these forums.

At the risk of beating a dead horse, I figure I'll put my two cents in on the debate between braid vs mono.
A few years ago I switched from spooling my spinning reels with mono to 30# braid. I am a braid believer. Its stronger, more sensitive, doesn't twist up like mono and holds a knot much better. By the way the palomer knot is the best knot I have found.
If I am targeting redfish no leader is required. However, if trout are a variable in my fishing equation for the day, I tie on an 18" 30# mono leader connecting the braid and mono with a swivel, using the palomer knot on both sides.
The reason for compromising the strength of the braid with the mono is because of the trouts ability to see the braid if the water has any clarity.
Rod breakage has never been a factor for me, I have snapped a few eyes in the middle portion of the rod. I guess, with a big fish high stress points occur in the eyes of the rod. Fortunately, i buy H&H rods from Gander MOuntain. They have a lifetime gaurantee. I have broken two sets of eyes on two different rods. The H&H rods are equipped with Fuji eyes but they still snap. Gander made good on the gaurantee. The rods cost around $100 but for a lifetime, its worth it.
I have been limiting out on reds with this setup under a popping cork the past few weeks over oyster beds. I like it under the cork because it virtually eliminates snags. Sometimes I tie the leader 3 to 4 feet long if I want to get a little deeper.

I usually fish the bays with 12 pound mono with a leader of 25 pound mono and I have caught quite a few nice trout this winter up to 27" but had two good fish break my line after a good fight
cause they got in the oysters wasn't my skill level as my drag was working fine and was tiring the fish out you will only lose a trophy fish because its a little smarter and stronger than the average fish for that reason alone I'm going to try some powerpro next time I put new line on.

That's fine and dandy, but I'd rather listen to people who make their living off of manufacturing the line. I mean, having a company spend thousands of hours and dollars testing and retesting their product and making improvements can't really be as intensive as your, what, maybe 300 hours spent testing the product? C'mon now. Once again, making comments like that get this discussion nowhere.

I have no problem with people using braid or mono, or whatever choices that are in between. It's actually pretty good to hear that some of this discussion may lead to people trying something they have not tried before. That means that the intention of this thread and website has not been lost in the middle of all this.

JP, it's good to hear that you will try braid, and hopefully, enjoy using it. It definitely is useful in many fishing applications, and hopefully, you will find it to be a great product.

Peter, it's a bit strange reading your post, but your experiences serve to illuminate one of my concerns. You state that rod breakage is not a factor for you, but then state that you have snapped the eyes from your rod. Personally, I consider the guides to be a part of the rod. Just as the reel seat and rod handle are necessary for optimum function, the guides are also integral to the equation as well. High stress like that typically occurs when you put more stress upon the rod or its components than it is designed to handle. Braid facilitates this by its higher tensile break strength, unless you use a comparable test for your rod.

Man,we've come a long way since Cat-GUT....hehe

I got a solution where everyone wins...use 10lb braid (I prefer cortland masterbraid) and add a three foot fifteen to twenty pound flourocarbon leader...you get the small diameter of the braid and the strength..plus the stretch and invisibility with the flourocarbon leader...use a uni to uni to tie it together.

300 hours? You have no clue what you're talking about. Keep on giving your comical advice based on your vast website research and dubious claims of catching Jacks on 6# mono. I need a good laugh. I'm done with this.