I posted awhile back about not getting fuel to the throttle body during start up. I can get it fired up with starting fluid. Ive replaced the fuel pump twice thinking I may of got a weak fuel pump. Also replaced fuel filter. When it fires up I get fuel to the throttle body and itll run forever. Its putting out a nice cone, but will also throw drops in middle of the cone here in there. Any guesses?
And I dont have the extra $100 to "rent" a pressure gauge at Auto Zone....
Thanks fellas.

What kind of vehicle?

94 Chevy 1500 V6 Z71

Fuel pump relay most likely- the fuel pump circuit feeds through the oil sending unit also. Once its running and builds oil pressure it completes the circuit to the fuel pump. The relay is mounted on the pass. side firewall behind the black cover. There is also a fuse there too. check that.

Guess I should of added that I have already changed the relay also. Im definatly lost on what else to replace!?

bad f/p regulator on the TBI unit. common issue dating back to '88 on chevy pickups.

Faulty injectors?

Im still trying to solve this problem!! anyone else out there ever have this happen to them and had it solved?!?!

I would look at a faulty ignition switch

I don't have a whole lot of experience with the bow ties but if I was to venture a guess I doubt it would be the injectors since it seems to run ok when it gets started. Would lean more toward the f/p reg or solenoid fuel pump control. It certainly going to be more difficult to diagnos without a guage to test the fuel pressure prior to start with ignition on only. After it sets a couple of hours can you hear the fuel pump come on when you first turn on the ignition prior to attempting to start?

If I remember correctly, the harness connector on top of the fuel pump had issues. Seen them burnt, they sell the repair kit for it. Might want to check there.

This is your real problem :
Leaking at fuel pressure regulator.
http://www.underhoodservice.com/Article/..._diagnosis.aspx

Hmmm. Went to start mytruck a few minutes ago (2002 Chevy Silverado) and it started, but immediately started to idle rough, then died. It started a couple more times but almost died immediately, sounds like it is starving for fuel. Tow truck headed here now to take it in for repair. Hope this doesn't break the bank...

Good article, nice read. Will have to save that for my Chevy friends.

I had someone tell me it could be the TPS ( Throttle Positioning Sensor) Would that cause it no send fuel?? Thought the TPS just regulated idle??

no the tps wont cause a no fuel condition,but you can check by unhooking the tps and starting the truck it should go to a default setting and start and run,as far as the real problem it is hard to diagnose something by computer without proper fuel pressure readings and also voltage readings at the relay and to the fuel pump,as stated that year truck could also have a bad harness at the fuel pump causing an intermittent connection and as it starts to warm up finally make good enough contact to run.
with it doing it only at start up i would suggest checking the harness at the fuel pump first,and im not talking about just poking a test light into it to see if it has power and are ground you will also need to see if the terminals have proper tension on them also,i wish i was closer to you i would take a look at it.as you can see throwing parts at a problem can and will get expensive and can be very frustrating also.

my first thought as well. with technology nowdays.. you HAVE to have pressure readings, computer scanners, etc. a fuel pressure gauge is much needed in diagnosing a fuel delivery issue.

checked ignition switch yet?

It has gotten so stressful I have taken a break from it.. I will keep all of yalls ideas on how-to solve the problem and mind and when I get back to it Ill post some results.

Thanks Guys!

Alrighty fellas,

Well it finally crapped out on me at the deer lease! Wouldnt even start with starting fluid. Seems now no spark??! So had another Chevy pull me on home on the trailer. Someone had told me that the Module could be the answer? Causing no fuel and no spark?

No need to spend money on a fuel pressure gauge if you have an old set of A/C gauges for R12 laying around. Since they are of no use anymore they will work for fuel pressure. If the pressure does not come up to spec. within a few seconds of turning the key, it will not fire. My old Surburban you would have to cycle the key several times to get the pressure up.

did you ever replace the pick up coil under the rotor in the dististbor. it connects to the module there inside.

The best way to definitely check for spark, is to remove a spark plug wire, and use an old, but good condion spark plug. Hold it close to the block, while someone cranks. If you do get a spark, and it's orangey in color, it could be coil that's going or module. The coil you can take in and get checked out at any Auto Zone or O'Reilly's. If there is no spark at all,remove the cap and the coil wire, and have someone crank the engine for about 3 seconds. If the rotor does not turn, or turns erratically, timing is your primary problem, but still check out the distirbutor. Bump the engine to top Dead Center,also mark the distibutor boday as to the location of the metal tip on the rotor, and remove the distributor. Remove the cap and look at the inside, check for the carbon tip, and the nside for any "carbon tracking". You can check the cap and the rotor white it's in the vehicle. If the parts look good, then slowly turn the bottom gear on the distributor, and watch and feel how it turns. The "pick up coil" is in the center of the distributor, just outside the shaft. Looking at it, you can see several small triangular points. Now, looking at them, still slowly turning the distibutor, see how much of a gap is between each point, and the "gear" that is just inside the pick up assembly. If the gear touches, or rubs against any of the triangles, that is the problem. When that happens, it will fry your module. You should check out the inner bushing on the distrubutor body also. The only way to separate the inner and out distributor parts is to use a small knock out punch, and tap out the roll pin just above the bottome gear on the housing. Once that is done, you can visually inspect the bushing for any excessive wear and wobble. If any of that is apparent, replace the distributor. But, do yourself a favor, if you do have to replace it, check out the pickup and the gear clearances. It has happened many times that you amy still get a bad one, due to shipping and poor alignment.

You can also check for fuel flow by removing the cap on the fuel line, with the coil disconnected, and use a small screwdriver to depress the valve stem. Have someone crank, and you check if you get a steady pump or stream, the problem is not the fuel pump, or filter. Normally when the reg. goes bad, it runs extrememly rich, blowing black smoke and smelling like gas out the exhaust. No one asked, what is the mileage? Has any ot he timing components been replace since you've had it? Has anyone checke dthe valve timing??