I have a 1992 skeeter that needs the oxidation removed from the side and tops of the boat. Can someone suggest a product or technique to do this properly.

Lot of talk abou Vasoline going round now

i just bought some 3M oxidation remover. i'll let yall know

If its bad:

Wet sand lightly with 1500. Then go back and wet sand with 2000. Then bust out the high speed buffer and the 3M EP Extra Cut. Start with fine, finish with very fine. Finish it up with your favorite wax, and that Skeeter will look brand new!

update: bought the 3M Oxidation Remover and Restorer. i started off with about a 1' section of the top cap and it has completely removed ALL oxidation. it does take some serious elbow grease to get it shiny though. im gonna start working on the rest of it with a buffing pad on my drill so it should be easier. so far, im DEFINITELY impressed and cant wait to get the entire boat done. got new carpet on the way from bassboatcarpets.com. look for before/after pics maybe this time next week. sweet!!!!

Maguirres (sp) Mirror Glaze. Use it after the 3M oxidation remover. Put it on with a buffer and run the buffer over it until it disappears.

Q: My boat finish looks dull and chalky. I have been told that the gelcoat is oxidized. If I use BTS will it get rid of the chalkiness?

A: Unfortunately no. BTS is the best product of its kind on the market, but it will not raise the dead. It will improve the look of oxidized gelcoats. There is help though, gelcoats in many cases can be machine buffed with compounds that will remove oxidation and return the finish close to its original luster. Using BTS after this restoration process will really help keep the finish looking great for many more years.

thats exactly what ive been doing and its working great. i did hit it with 1000 grit before the 1500 and 2000 though. me and my uncle wore out a B&D drill buffing that thing yesterday. it does look TONS better but still needs like 10 more coats of wax.

bumped my post on how I did it.

Be carful Boss. You've only got so much clear to work with...

Do yourself a favor and go buy a quality buffer and a bunch of pads. And while you're at it, stop by a bosy shop and pick up some 3M EP extra cut. Get "Fine" if you're only gonna get one. I'm tellin ya, that ep does the trick! Be sure to change pads about every 5 square feet, or you'll score the finish. But definatly get a real buffer, you'll be impressed. You'll wonder why you were even messing around with that dril.