I have heard the second gear thing works the best. I would not do it with a really heavy boat though.

I have a manual and used to have a really hard time slipping on ramps. I used to put 400 lbs of sand in the back before I would go to the lake. I got new tires and have not had a problem since. I got some Michelin cross terrains with full depth sipes. I love them. I don't break loose at all now without any sand.

Go to Murrell Park at Grapevine. NONE of the ramp is wet.

Good ideas. Here's another. If you have an extra person, back the boat down a little farther than normal after you have the boat strapped at the front.
Get the motor in gear and full throttle and get some speed going. When the outboard gets close to coming out of the water turn it off and trim it up.

What is the point of putting an automatic transmisson into 2nd gear when pulling up the ramp?
I thought that an automatic transmisson started out in 1st gear no matter what gear you have selected. 1-OD, or anything in between.
Just curious?????????????

I think when you put it in 2nd it overrides 1st. Less torque in 2nd, that's what will keep the wheels from spinning so easily. I sometimes will just grab some sand or gravel near the boat ramp and throw it in front of the rear tires for a little more traction if needed.

couple of clicks on the ebrake is an old trick that works remarkably well.

FYI: When you put the auto tranny in second gear it does not start in second. It starts in first but goes no higher than second.

its a matter of leverage. Move the winch on the boat trailer closer to the ball on the pickup. Usually 2 to 3 inches is enough. Now you will have more downforce on the pickup and your tires will gain traction. ...now , that'll be 50 bucks for the advice. And I' take pay pal.

Ford transmissions, back in the day, would manually go into 2nd when you put the shifter in 2nd. Don't know if the new ones do. Chevy will start out in 1st no matter where the shifter is. Dodge, don't know.

Sounds like you have an open differential. Conventional open differential's use two side gears inside the differential case. Each gear is splined to accept an axle shaft. These side gears are in turn driven by a set of spider gears. The spider gears, also inside the differential case, ride on a shaft which is pinned into the differential case and through which all the power is transmitted. The case is driven by the ring gear which is bolted fast to the case. The conventional differential is fitted as standard equipment on most vehicles.

On paved roads this system is very successful, giving predictable handling, even tire wear and requiring very little maintenance. This type of differential has a major limitation. When one wheel has greater traction than the other, all the power will be directed to the wheel with the least traction. For example, if one wheel is in the air and the other wheel is still on a hard surface, then all the power will be transferred to the wheel in the air. No power will go to the one on the ground and the vehicle will not move.

Useing the "E" brake will help. All you are doing is loading up the wheel to help keep you from spinning it, tricking the brainless differential into applying torque to both wheel's. There is a sweet spot you have to find though. Too little, you spin, too much, forcing more throttle and you spin. You can test this for yourself. Go to a known incline that you know you can't go up that is graveled. Start at the base and ease up till you stop. Now give it some throttle. You'll feel one wheel start to spin. Now try it again, whith very small increases in throttle, you should feel both wheel's start to dig in, as soon as it start's to spin, you'll note that it will go back to one wheel getting all the torque again.

The e brake apply's resistance to the rear drum's only (or disk's), riding the brake pedal apply's to all 4, making you have to overcome that force also. Not good when your already having difficulty.

Weight will help. Going up at an angle is just shifting more weight to one wheel to get more torque.

Took me a few try's to get the hang of it on wet and slimy ramp's. Have not been to one I can't walk right up now.

One trick I have found that works is after loading the boat and strapping it down in the front.(This takes 2 people) Back down the ramp a little more and have the person in the boat push the truck with the motor of the boat. Once you get your momentum rolling you should be able to make it right on up the ramp. I have had to do this before with a 4x4 in an Ice Storm and it works great. Dont worry about your prop hitting anything just trim the motor a little and dont stop pushing with the outboard until its starts to come out of the water! Hope this helps!!

Hmmm, I dunno my truck does fine! No really the E brake thing will work, just go easy! Can ya tell I loves my little red truck!

I have never had an issue with getting out of the water. But, I like the idea of say turn to the left and back to the right to kinda zig zag your way out. Sounds like it changes the load position on the track allowing for better traction and less stress for the drivetrain.

My brother is not fat but my mother in law always get the job done....

Buy sand instead. It's still reusable when it gets wet.

I have done the emergency brake a couple times and all was fine

what about 4 wheel dr?

4 wd has always worked for me to get up the steep ones.

ride the brake it will engage your limited slip

Riding the brake will not engage your limited slip if you do not have LS. What you are doing is tricking an open diff to act like LS. If you actually have a LS diff then you do not need to do the braking thing.

Just take it slow, very slow or for future trips just add some sand bags to the bed.

First thing is weight. You need more in the back over the axle. Good rubber and make sure you don't have the tires over inflated even a little low is better if you aren't going far or have air readily accessible. If the ramp is large enough to allow try getting a little angle instead of straight down the ramp.

Wathed a guy try the e-brake thing about 2 weeks ago. I laughed to myself when somebody suggested it and started over to get my Ford to pull his Chevy up the ramp but it actually worked. Convinced me.

Personally, GM is the only brand I've seen struggle up ramps. I think it's a design flaw. Never had any problems with my Dodges or Fords.

Its not a chevy thing. My dads 99 f150 will sit there and spin that right tire all day tring to get up steep ramps. My silverado has a locking rear end and has never had a wheel slip.

It's the open differential and weight distribution that I think causes the problem.