I have a 2006 TDI(diesel) Jetta and I have been taking it to the dealer to get oil changes done for warranty proposes. Warranty is almost up and would like to start changing the oil myself, but not sure what kind to use. The book and dealer states, "Use an oil that conforms to oil standard 505 01." The dealer also insist that I continue to bring the car to them for oil changes because the oil they use cannot be purchased at any autoparts stores.

I am about 99.9% sure that it uses Castrol synthetic 5W40 with a CF rating for compression ignition.

Can anyone verify that this is the correct oil or that it conforms to oil standard 505 01?

What is oil standard 505 01?

Thanks,
Rickey

Try this site.

http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/3005/V170801.pdf

The dealer cannot void your warranty because you do your own oil changes, period. Here is a good site for oil related topics.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=933492#Post933492

Here's your thread.

Thanks guys!

Both sits are extremely helpful.

Thanks again,
Rickey

Damn I'm glad I drive and old beater, I think I could put vegie oil in it and it would still be ok.

matt

You need a special oil for that car. It meets the 505.01 spec which is different from most oils. Unless of course the tdi club says different. In 2004 they changed the engine from a rotary injection pump to the Pump Deuse engine(spelling might be wrong). It has tighter tolerances so the higher spec oil.
My 2003 uses the 505.00 spec or regular synthetic. I have used Delvac 1, Amsoil 5-40 European, and Rotella 5-40 synthetic(which is not a true synthetic).

Here's a list of all the 505.01 oils. Just scroll down to 505.01 and you see there's a ton of them. However there are not that many sold in the US.

http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/529/Audi_Approved_Oil_Chart.pdf

I'll try later to look up the most used here in the US.

OH, yeah, by the way.......since you are new to this and going to be doing your own oil changes you might want to get a fluid extractor. Northern tool has one and Pella makes a good one. Most of the guys doing their own use it to pull the oil out of their crankcase and oil filter holder. Its easy and less mess plus you don't have to get under the car. The drain plug is a known weak area and the female part can fail which requires a new oil pan. Plus the bottom cover is a pain to remove.

The fuel filter is easy to change out if you want to do that. Its a 30k mile changeout and only requires loosening one phillips head screw and a clip. That along with removing 4 hoses. A 10 minute job. Make sure you fill the filter with fuel or like I do some Power Service additive.

Valvoline Synpower 5W-40 Part number 966 (make sure its not real old. They changed the rating back in 8-07 from 505.00 to 505.01 so most of it should be good.

I have used TDIParts for some of my maintenance parts. They sell oil too. You can use a new rated oil, 507 as it is a backwards compatable oil to the 505.01 oil.

i use amsoil marine diesel synthetic with a dual bypass filter setup it adds two more quarts to the capacity and the second filter traps everything down to 1 micron

I use the Amsoil too but its not an oil for this application.

I have over 84 thousand miles on the oil in my crankcase of my Dodge but thats with oil analysis.

I don't have the newer TDI so I've had to do a little reading but from what I gather the 505.01 rated oil is good for a 5 thousand mile oil change. The 507 rated oil is good for a 10k mile change.
My 2003 Jetta gets 10k oil changes with the 505.00 oil but I'm not sure what change intervals in the 2004's and up are.

Thanks Allison!
Will the engine start easily after changing the filter as long as I add fuel to it or will I need to prime it?
Also,
How hard is it to drain the water out of the water fuel separator?
Where is it located?
Any tricks I should know?

Thanks,
Rickey

I change the air filter, oil filter, oil and fuel filter in our PD TDI's every 5k miles. I know it is overkill, but the fuel now days is really dirty and the filters are cheap insurance.

I have never had call to drain water from the filter. its a screw on plastic fitting on the bottom of the fuel filter(I think thats it). I do use an additive...primrose 405 but am starting to just use a pint of cheap 2 cycle oil now.

You should not have to prime the pump if you fill the filter. I have had times where the car took a couple seconds to start but now I usually drive it a little and haven't seen that again.
The fuel filter is visible on the passenger side of the engine compartment. A clip and 4 hoses along with one screw to loosen.

I don't know your year model so I can't be sure. If you live or park under trees you might clean out your snow screen every once in a while. On my car its the duct that the air cleaner attaches to. It pulls fresh air into the filter. I think there are three screws that will take the air filter off and another two to take that duct off that leads into the fender area. Then you can clean the screen at the end of the duct. I haven't seen much in mine so I don't do it regularly but if you get "stuff" you would get better flow from cleaning it out.

There is also a fresh air filter on my car mounted on the passenger side next to the windshield under a metal panel.

Dwight, if you are worried about your oil, don't be. If you just like to change every 5k thats ok. If you go to the tdiclub site and do a search there is one thread there where there are many many engine oil analysis's done that seem to allow for the 10k miles per change as my car uses.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=154548&highlight=pump+oil+analysis

Make sure you look at the 2004 and up engines as those are the same as yours.