I go to my local trailer shop once a year and have both hubs replaced with new ones. I keep a couple of spares rebuilt and lubed and in large ziplock bags in my toolbox. Once I had to replace a hub along side the road, it took me probably 30 minutes from start to finish. I didn't have to break down the old hub, just pull it, clean/grease the spindle and install new hub. A cordless Dewalt drill with a socket that fits lug nuts works wonders for snugging the lug nuts, then just use the lug wrench and/or torque wrench.

I would at least get those bolts free and replaced. Hate to have them seize on you when you need to change a tire. The wheel looks pretty bad, probably structurally ok, but better safe than sorry. I would replace the hub and the bearing buddy.

btw, the "bra" for the bearing buddy is to keep from slinging grease all over your boat in the event of a failure/leak, and to keep water and debris out.

I would replace those studs. It's a real bummer when they start busting off while your totin it down the big road. Replace the bearings and races, they are cheap insurance. as far as the wheel goes, if it aint cracked, bead blast it and repaint it.

What does it cost to have both hubs redone?

Most places charge an hour's labor, plus parts. $80-100 bucks normally.

Mike halfmann the boatman has it right, thats exactly the way I have done all my bearings for 35 yrs. on many trailers and never had a problem except for blowing out the back seal on one by not paying attention to what i was doing. the best advise was the MYSTIC GREASE this is what the oilfield uses to lube rigs and if you think bearings take a beating think about 100,000# of pressure on a drill stem. mystic is by far the best grease and oil on the market. just my nickels worth of advice

I even have bearing buddies on my stock and utility trailers. I grease them at least every couple of months and it has been a lot of years since I have had bearing problems.