ok guys, heres the story, i bought a boat from a guy and I went to take it out the first time and the darn thing will not start...When i looked at the boat the guy started it first try and it ran for atleast 5 minutes...I don't know much of anything about motors but i assumed it ran well after that...I have been looking at it with my dad, and i am noticing gas coming out of the carburator...a good amount of drips..is this normal? what can I do? I am guessing the engine to be 80's or 90's...thanks guys this is my first boat and I was super excited just to get to the lake ready to fish and no go on the engine :\

Sounds like it is flooding. You may need to rebuild the carbs, or at least take them apart and clean them.

Probally need the carbs rebuilt...Sounds like a needle and seat sticking...Or float could be cracked allowing it to fill up with gas.....Give me a call or pm...

hey spanky...i think your a tad bit too far, im down in san antone...after reading online what you guys are saying is actually what i was thinking! gotta love the internet...how much does it usually cost for a carb rebuild? Could this task be done by a novice? Thanks guys for your swift replies, im trying to get on the water soon!!! just earlier it "kinda" started for a couple seconds then dies...

one more thing in addition to the above... Does just regular ol 2cycle engine oil work? like the kind you add to a weed-eater? I sure hope so because that is whatI added today, at a 50:1 ratio..... I don't think that was the problem because i tried using my dads gastank from his boat and it wouldn't start either...

are u choking it while starting???? Or giving it a lil throttle whike cranking it.... I know my merc did the same thing i was choking it and loading it up with gas and not giving it any air so it wouldn't start..

well will...we have tried both ways...it was smelling like gas after a few cranks so we stopped loading it up with gas...we tried choke/no choke...letting it sit, then trying aggain in an hour...never givin it throttle with the shifter, but there is a lever the guy said to pull up to start (im assuming it's the fast idle lever) that we pull up...we even tried NOT using that lever aswell...hope that helps

check the kill switch

stick steering...that's what my dad was thinking...where is thekill switch???? just FYI guys...today was a new day...i said "why the hell not try" first turn of the key...no choke, no fast idle..started up and ran good...while it was running we sprayed a little carb cleaner and wd40 in the carb...seemed to be running good!!! just like it did when i bought it!! Thanks guys for your help! I will definetely come back if anything pops up...hopefully after the spurs game today i can take her for a actual lake test

Don't spray carb cleaner in it. You are diluting the oil/gas. You do that too much, and you'll cause massive ring failure. Same with WD-40. WD-40 is a degreaser.

If the engine isn't running right, get it fixed. Most mechanics charge an hour per carb, plus kits.

I'm not trying to be abrasive, contrary. I'm trying to keep you from having to do a rebuild.

Just remember, spraying Carb Cleaner in a 2 stroke is not a good thing.

what about starting fluid? I still think the carb isn't running "right" we can get it started, but sometimes have to spray starting fluid in the carb...Should I avoid that too???

Yes, avoid starting fluid. You've got a problem & like Michael said get it fixed now before it cost you more later.

ok, thanks guys...do you all think the carb needs to be rebuilt? I can get it started and it will stay running...I did notice that I was giving it gas in forward letting it run bout mid throttle for a min or two, then upon returing to nuetral it starts to sound like it's going to die, or it dies... This all go along with what yall sayin? the carb rebuild thing... THANKS A BUNCH GUYS!!!!!

If you can get to it ,try tapping on the carb with something. a stuck float can be freed up sometimes.

how would i know if it's the float that is stuck? how would i know the float got "un-stuck"?? Sorry these questions are pretty lame, but this is my first boat and I have very very limited knowledge with motors and such...thanks for your patience guys

this is what she is running like today...she actually stays started...i really don't think i need a full rebuild do you guys think? in the video, notice the "hiccups" at 9seconds, :18-:25 seconds, and :41-:45...when it did die, it actually started right back up afterwards, which is wasn't doing before...

You need to get the motor looked at...If you keep running it and have a cylinder leaning out your asking for trouble..Probally needs new fuel pump carb job... Also put a better filter on the motor...Looks like the water pump could be weak....What kinda gas tank metal or plastic?Pump some gas in a jar and let it sit a while ...See if you see any water in gas...You had stated that gas was runing out one of the carbs...Somebody needs to look at carbs..

I guess i would mix up some sea foam with the gas, bout 2 ounces per gallon and run that in there to see if it fixes it or not and then get it checked out if that dont fix things.

matt

spanky, today i didn't notice any gas leaking out of the carbs...I am going to get it looked at this week sometime...trying to find a good reputible mechanic...it's a plastic tank BTW..i checked the filter thats before the gas gets to the carb, it was clean, and the filter in the gas line iinstalled is clear too...just so you know the gas im using is comeing from my dads boat tank and it ran his boat fine last outing...I am pretty much down to paying out the arse and getting her fixed i think...i've exhausted all my options!!!

EDIT: doesn't the water pump make the pee-stream? the engine does have a pee stream, a good stream...

another thing...i have looked this thing over and over again, i CANNOT find a serial number at all...I am trying to find out what year the motor is exactly...thanks

a carb rebuild is cheap insurance id do it

The color scheme on your motor says its anywhere from a 78 to 82 model. The hiccup you hear on the video is a lean running condition. It will acutally backfire through the intake when the mix is too lean. I'm not sure the carb is lean however, as you are running it on a hose. They don't have enough back pressure on the exhaust on a hose as opposed to being in the water. It may not lean "spit" in the water. As for the flooding situation, pump the primer bulb and look for fuel leaking out the vent hole in the top of the carb body. If fuel runs out you have a flooding conditon. Suzukis usually flood due to the needle and seat being dirty. It has a steel needle and a brass seat and cleaning will usually take care of it.The carb is easy to fix.

now the problem is trying to find a carb rebuild kit for that year of engine :\ ...i can get it done for $140 doest that sound right?

so does that mean this motor is stolen, and now I am using a stolen motor on my boat? there is no suzuki serial plate where it should be... :\ ...im starting to regret this purchase more and more... could anyone tell me if this carb kit wouuld work for my engine either way because the shops around here say they have to know he exact year, but this kit online says it fits ALL dt40's...what im thinking is it's just a universal kit and you probably only use 2-3 or those gaskets??? someone please help me end this nightmare

link to kit ----> http://store.brownspoint.com/detail.asp?product_id=13910-94400

the way I remember it, suzuki had two kits for the inline style motors. Most of the time when I have done carb work on suzukis the kits were not even needed. tap the bowl loose with a screwdriver handle befor you pull it off and you will save that gasket. the base gasket rarely tears when the carb is pulled.and the needle & seat gasket can be re-used. Clean all the parts good with mercury power tune and check to be sure the float level is correct. the pilot jet in the top of the carb is the most spot for idle problems and the main jet for high speed. the main jet is located at the bottom of the pickup tube. Good luck.

the way I remember it, suzuki had two kits for the inline style motors. Most of the time when I have done carb work on suzukis the kits were not even needed. tap the bowl loose with a screwdriver handle befor you pull it off and you will save that gasket. the base gasket rarely tears when the carb is pulled.and the needle & seat gasket can be re-used. Clean all the parts good with mercury power tune and check to be sure the float level is correct. the pilot jet in the top of the carb is the most spot for idle problems and the main jet for high speed. the main jet is located at the bottom of the pickup tube. Good luck.

your not in san antonio are you????

I'm in east texas. pm me if you want.

No, it needs to be TCW-3 certified. weedeaters are aircooled, run hotter than water-cooled outboards, different requirements. Doubt you did any damage....

There's nothing really on this engine that's beyond the average do-it-yourselfer with some basic tools and a good shop manual. The manual is key, it'll save you $thousands. Carbs are pretty routine.

well i am pretty sure imma just pay 140 to get them done by a mechanic the first time, atleast to see if that's even the problem!!! it damn well better be LOL... i got my fiberglass stuff today...hope i don't do any more damage thanks j

figured i'd let you guys know the update incase anyone was wondering...i ended up getting the carbs rebuilt by a friend of a friend...cost me less than 80 bux...and WOW, the engine runs great!!! he even fixed the fast idle that wasn't working proper...im happy as can be...on to finishing the fiberglass work and im hittin the lake!!!!

ok guys...i lied...took it out to the lake today...started up just fine, ran just fine...FOR ABOUT 3 minutes..made it halfway across the lake, then it just sounded like it ran out of gas, or just lost power or something, just died not immediately but gradual decrease in power until it died...checkd all the obvious things like the bulb it was primed, all that...was sounding like it wouldn't crank over so we loaded it back up and came home...got home and hooked it up to the hose, it cranked over and started for a second then died...then wouldn't crank again so i stopped... any suggestions guys? can i catch a break anytime soon, man oh man...

back to basics.

3 things it needs to run: compression, spark, fuel.

first, compression test. compression should be even across all cylinders.
second, spark test. most CD ignitions you set your tester for 7/16" or 1/2" gap, if it's points & condenser maybe somebody else here knows.
report your results.

recharge your battery first.

can i do the compression test myself, or do i need to take it to a shop? the funny thing is, is that it ran for 5 minutes in my driveway, i even had it revin' up with the fast idle and it sounded great!! now this............

compression gauge, maybe $25 at any car parts store.
Warm the engine up to operating temp (if you can).
Remove the spark plugs. Note their appearance especially if one is different from the others in any way.
Disable spark by pulling the emergency lanyard or using jumper wires to ground the spark plug leads to the engine block.
One at a time, screw the compression gauge into the cylinder and turn the engine over using the key. You want to spin a good 4 or 5 times. Repeat, just for good measure.
Make a note of the reading on the gauge, reset it and move on to the next hole.

Spark tester is a couple bucks at autozone. Don't try to test spark using spark plugs - a weak ignition can fire a plug outside the cylinder then fail under compression.

Beware revving an outboard over 1500 or so on the muffs - without backpressure on the exhaust it can go into thermal runaway with disastrous consequences.

oooh i thought you just weren't supposed to go in forward and spin the prop revving it? damn, i justkeep messing up... *sigh's* hopefully i haven't damaged it beyond repair...think my buddy will be at the lake this weekend maybe he'll have a compression tester...if not I am going to invest in one because with the way things are going ill be having to buy ANOTHER boat soon

hey jtexas since you seem to be the one willing to help, first i wanted to say thank you!!! today...i went and bought 2 new plugs...installed them...first try cranked right up...ran for 30seconds or a minute, then died, and would not start after that...removed the plugs they weren't black, but i did notice a slight amount of gas on them...any ideas now? My mechanic did check compression when he did the carb rebuild, said they were good...thanks again for your time and willingness to help me man...eventually imma get this darn thing going and on the water for real!!!!!!!

anyone?? still doing the same thing...if you let it sit for a while it will start up first try, then die after about 5 seconds of running, then will not start again until you let it sit...any ideas...? i still think the carb is the problem just don't know what to do...

i took the carb off and made sure it was all clean and the float wasn't stuck...everything looked clean and not stuck...I did notice i got it started and while running for 5-10 seconds i no longer have a pee stream...the pee stream WAS working the other day and even last night when i had it started for a few seconds...today..NOTHING

Go over to www.iboats.com they will help you out

Did you ever mention what year motor this is?
Does it have CD ignition or points/condenser?
Does it have choke plates or a primer?
Did you do the spark test?

When the motor dies, is the bulb still firm?

When it starts to die off after 30 seconds, can you keep it going by squeezing the primer bulb? or by choking it?

Does your carb (1 carb or 2?) have a slow speed adjustment screw?

While its idling, can you hold your fingers against the cylinder head for 3 or 5 seconds without getting burned?

---ahhh there you are...the motor is early 80's model... i have no exact way of telling...

---pardon my ignorance but like i said this is my first boat, i don't know what a CD or points condensor is?

---it has a "plate" type thing that will close of the carb if that's what you mean by choke plate, it's a knob that you pull that will close that off

---No, i haven't gotten around to purchasing a spark plus tester, but that will be next on my list, if all else fails

---Yes, when the motor dies, the bulb is primed up good and there is gas i can see in the filter...I haven't tried keeping it going by pulling the choke, I am afraid to even start it now that the pee hole isn't working...I thought that was BAD?

---I have one carb, and if your talking about the idle speed screw were when it's idle you can adjust the screw to make it idle alittle faster or slower, Yes it has that, and I have messed with it trying to get it to run...which leads me too...should i start it and let it run for as long as it will, so i can put my fingers on the cylinder head, with no water coming out the pee-hole? thanks for your patience with me man, im trying to learn all this, so it's all BRAND new to me...apreciate your time bud

-sigh- I guess you're going to have to troubleshoot the cooling system. First stick a wire up in in the pee hole to make sure it's not blocked (sounds painful). Then I'd drop the lower unit & have a look at the water pump. Might as well order your rebuild kit now - once you take it apart, might as well do the maintenance. If that checks out then you probably have an obstruction somewhere in the water jacket - you're going to need a manual.

I really don't really know Suzi, but a generic procedure for slow speed mixture setting: screw it in till it seats gently, then back it out 1 and 1/2 turns. Start then engine and set the throttle to where it'll just stay running. In increments of 1/8 turn, screw it in, wait for the engine to respond - RPM's will increase. Reset the throttle to where it barely stays running. When you reach the point where screwing it in makes it want to die, or backfire, back it out 1/4 turn. The smoothest running will be in that last 1/4 turn.

You've identified the choke plate, and by early 80's everybody had switched to electronic ignition.

i think i am getting in too far over my head...im thinking i am going to have to take it back to the mechanic, or a different mechanic... im with you... *sigh* it does have the choke u can engage by pushing the key "in" and that also closes the choke plate...

I am thinking I am going to have to drop the lower unit, BEFORE i order my kit because as i said before I don't know the exact year of the engine and the repair kits need years...I plan on seeing what the parts look like so i can match them up from the pictures online...Do I just drop the lower unit with the bolts that are around the bottom abouve the prop area? I heard there is another bolt up top that drops it all??? thanks guys...

well i found the screw that ables to drop the lower unit...i don't notice anything crazy...i do notice that the impeller online has like ridges at the end of each blade, where it gets fatter...mine looks to be worn down pretty smooth...problem? I am having a hard time finding the parts I need for the kit since I don't know the exact year the engine is...

try this:

http://store.brownspoint.com/dt40.asp

thanks jtexas...that is the exact page i have been using, and have been looking for little details from the schematics in order to narrow down what year engine I have...I am pretty sure it's '80-'82...I now am trying to locate the impeller and gasket somewhere local here before I order it online...thanks for your help bud!!! don't give up on me yet... one day ill see you on the water

hey jtexas...you only wish you had gotten rid of me LOL...im back again...finally got my impeller in the mail replace that, the gasket and the key...i got a good pee-stream now...engine started...is running kinda ruff...like it wants to die then will rev up, and so on...i had it running and let it run for bout 5 minutes on the muffs...then i noticed smoke coming from spark plug area...the plugs are HOTT, i mean hott can't even touch them hot...so is the place where the plugs screw into, that whole area is HOTT...any ideas?? once i saw smoke I immediately turned the engine off...pleeease oooh please tell me im not screwed..AGAINN!!!!

ok, you know, the pee stream just let's you know your pump is pumping, doesn't indicate if water is circulating the powerhead. Right offhand, just from your description, I'd say it's probably not circulating very well.

You have to find your thermostat - most motors it's under a cylinder head cover, some it's high on the head, others it's low. Any chance you could get your hands on a manual? I'd bet you could fix it.

Take a look at your spark plugs, see if there's any foreign material on 'em - specifically gray or silver, about the color of aluminum.

Might want to wait for 'em to cool off slightly.

(sorry for that last crack, just couldn't resist)

I thought if i had pee stream the engine would be getting cooled just fine :whack: if i find the thermostat...what am i looking for? Do i have take off the part where the spark plugs go? the plugs didn't look like they had anything foreign, but one was black looking...the part i have arrowed is what was HOT including the plugs...what is that called? Am i supposed to remove those bolts to get to the thermostat?

bump for my boy jtexas...come back potna... thanks!!!! I was hesitent to remove those bolts and check otuthe thermostat because then I would need a new gasket right? i wanted to make sure i get the gasket first, thanks b