i've always wondered why you guys say NOT to weld skegs over so many horsepower? honestly steve, i thought you were on board saying that too, but it could have been others? i'm for welding myself, i've straightened welded skegs that were "not repairable because it had been welded". these were rolled over into a j too and never broke or split a seam
I'm always for welding skegs, unless it's a merc skeg and they are surfacing the case. and over 85mph.
typical bass boats are no problem welding skegs.. especially yamaha skegs.. that's easy metal to weld up.
Hindsight.. There were several people on here that convinced me not weld the skeg, didn't want to be an Alton if it came unbuttoned. Their arguments made sense.. I can rationalize it either way, as I have spent a lot of time welding and inspecting welds. At the end of the day my 9 year old daughter often rides in my boat, her safety is worth replacing it, so that's the route I took.. and it's just that simple.
I am in the process of tearing this down myself, learning as I go.
My brand new water pump (10 hours of use) looks like its a season or two old, but definetly not the water pump I sent in on my old unit. To many things point to this not being a new water pump based on the wear. I am familiar with these as I change my own every year.
The main shaft will rotate between 1/2 & 3/4 rotation before the prop shaft turns.
The prop shaft slides about 1/8 inch in and out of the carrier.
It is very noisy without gear oil in it, sounds like the bearings to me.
It clearly will not go into reverse still.
Don't have the tools to pull the shaft so currently weighing my options.