2006 LBZ bone stock.

When I got the truck a few months ago, I did an oil change as soon as I got it.. Rotella T4 15w40. Time for another change.. I was going to just get the 10qts of T4 but saw that Delo 400 was cheaper. After looking around, it seems as if people are converting from Shell and now are saying the Delo is the better stuff. What do y'all think..? I don't see many people speak of Delvac either. Not intrested in synthetic.

The T4, Delo and Delvac are all good oils... I�d just stick with the T4 since your not wanting to go Synthetic and it�s what you have been running. I run T4 in my LBZ and alway been happy with it.

T4, Delo 400, Delvac 1300 are all premium oils. I like to stay the same, so I would stick to T4. All will yield similar results, I personally am partial to Delvac. I ran a fleet of heavy equipment on Delvac, later ran a frac and cement fleet on Delo, and currently run a cement and small frac fleet on Delvac. Over the years thru oil sampling I do believe Delvac has a slight leg up in their detergent package. You won�t go wrong with any of them.

I've been running Amsoil in my LB7 since the first oil change in 2003. Combine that with their EAO52 filter and you won't be disappointed. I change it once a year.

Amsoil Signature Series Max-Duty Synthetic Diesel Oil

Have run the equivalent of T4 in our two duramaxes since new they both have over 200k miles on them, run like a top and don't use any oil. They run like new.

I ran Delo 400 in a LB7 and LBZ Duramax.

i like Delo oil, its a great oil and I love the money I save over Rotella!

Thanks folks. I'm probably gonna get the 2.5 gal jug of Delvac 1300 this go around.. It's $22 here. Wanna see if there really is any difference.

From what I've read, Delvac 1300 is the factory oil for the Duramax

Yea run Amsoil to.


https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/m.../?code=AMEQT-EA

Maybe I'm seeing that wrong.. But $10 for a quart of that stuff?????? That's $100 worth of oil! I'll go synthetic T6 before I do that!

Sign up for the preferred customer program and the price goes way down. You will pay a small fee up front but as you continue to use their products it pays for itself. They offer free shipping a few times a year which helps, too.

I'm a preferred customer and pay $7.00 a quart so yea $70.00 but I only change it once a year.

If you want to run 5-6000 mile oil changes go with any of the good conventional 15-40 oils. Rotella and Delo are both good.

Rotella T6 is a cheaper synthetic but for 10 thousand mile oil changes its good oil.
In any case get a good microfiber filer. They hold more than a conventional filter.

Have talked to a few people runnin rotella t6 for 15000 drain interval with oil analysis and good results.

Thanks guys, got Delvac 1300.

I just can't see the extra $ for synthetic personally.

Me too

If its a gas engine I'm all for synthetic. However a diesel engine oil gets very contaminated very quickly not to mention that there is a lot of it. So I just use the shell rotella and let the engine thing tell me when to change oil. I've got an LBZ, the high schoolers dream engine. It has 198K miles and doesn't seem to use a drop of oil.

OTOH, this is really a religion discussion, after all have you ever heard of anyone having an engine problem due to poor oil quality? Its all good.

I think shell rotella is a synthetic?

T6 = synthetic
T5 = synthetic blend
T4 = conventional

All diesels use a little oil, especially at idle. The cylinder pressures are much higher than in a gasoline engine and there is blowby. Diesels have harder rings and when cool along with higher pressures and the harder metal it lets some oil by. When the engine is run harder it heats up and blowby goes down.
A good synthetic in a hot climate like Austin may not be as important but in the northern states when you have such low temps it is very evident on start up. Same thing when you use synthetics in your manual transmission and differentials. A regular lube may take minutes to reach the seals in a rear end but with synthetic its much quicker.

Oil gets dark within a couple hundred miles in diesels but that does not mean it gets the particulate that can damage your engine. With a good synthetic and good filtering including a bypass oil filter to filter out the smaller particles. A standard diesel filter filters down to around 20 microns. A good bypass filter in conjunction with a regular filter will filter down to 2 microns which allow you to continue to use the same oil for a very long time. The 2 micron filter does not filter as fast so you still need the full size filter and the bypass filter needs to be changed every 25 thousand miles. I change mine every 20 plus thousand.

My change schedule is one quart of synthetic oil every 7 thousand miles. I fill the filter with the quart of oil. When I change the bypass 2 micron filter I also fill that with oil. So I use about 4 to 5 quarts of oil every 25 thousand miles. 3 to 4 regular filters and one 2 micron filter.
I have not done an oil analysis in 50 thousand miles. I used to do it every 10 thousand but they all kept coming back the same. Now that I think about it I will do another just out of curiosity. All my previous checks came out like the Cummins commonly gets. The only change was around 85 thousand miles when the copper started rising but checking it was common in my engine. The oil cooler leaches copper around that time. Since then the copper levels went back down. The main reason to add oil when you change the oil filters is that it replaces the oil additives that

My engine is not used as much as before. I used to drive 25k a year. Now its down considerably to around 5 thousand. Total miles is just over 200k on my 2000.

I know, too much info. Sorry.