There is another way of thinking about it. I got a cash car when I started driving, a truck worth about $4,000 it was good and reliable for me, but when I started working it was at the end of its usable life for the most part and was about to need a lot of work with between 250 and 300k miles on it. I bought a 40k vehicle right away and it wasn't a burden. On the other hand many of my friends, whose parents had given them much newer cars had reliable relatively low mileage cars to drive for 5 or 6 years of work starting off.

People are going to make the money choices they are going to make.

It's 3.73 too. :\

It's a 70 mile round trip to my son's high school from my house (90 miles from my work). I probably won't buy new but we do need something fairly reliable.

4 cylinder car!

With all the trucks running around here, I'm tempted to buy another super duty.


I'll probably be the one in the $4,000 4-banger while he drives my truck.

I will tell you, Diesel is the way to go. Buy an older diesel though. Like nothing newer than 07. The reason is the emissions/aftertreatment systems kill fuel mileage, power, and cost a TON to repair when they go out. And trust me, they will go out. Before I got hurt, I made an absolute killing repairing these systems or deleting these systems. A turbo diesel will get 30% better fuel economy than a similar size gas engine.

If your dead set on GMC, if your not wanting a 4x4, look at something with the LBZ (05-07 I believe).
If your wanting a 4x4, I have to tell you to get an 08. Just look up pump rub and you will see why I made the exception to my own advice on year. Trust me, I�m a victim of pump rub X2.
If you get an 08 or newer, as soon as you can, completely delete the DPF, DEF/SCR systems. 4� straight pipe exhaust, and a delete tune. Just don�t get rid of the EGR. It actually cools the cylinder. And under aggressive throttle inputs, the EGR valve closes from the factory.

In any of these, I highly recommend installing a lift pump. Because your injection pump is having to suck fuel out of the tank all the way to the engine, then pressurize the fuel and send it to the injectors; adding a lift pump pushes the fuel to the injection pump, extending the life of the injection pump.

Goodness man, don�t buy a bigger rear end than 3.73! You�ll be looking at 8mpg.


When you buy the 6.2 can you post back with fuel mileage numbers. My diesel cost is getting old and starting to aggitate me.

Now if a salesman gives you a number and you ask, "Does that number include everything?" AND he says "yes"! In the spirit of Darren Hambrick, what do 'everything' mean?

I got down there to sign and the price turned into $40K.

Gotta love the games of buying a new vehicle lol, hope you get what your looking for.

Has 90 miles on it (less than 40 are mine) but lot's of stop and start. I reset and it's sitting on 12.5mpg. My first tank with the f150 was 14 and peaked over 17 before I put oversize tires on, so I'm hopeful it'll improve as the engine breaks in. I'd be giddy if I can average 14-15mpg. I'll update as I go.


And congrats to Ford. It's only 3 feet longer than my F150 but feels 10'. Not sure how they did that? I need 4 parking spots.

LOL after driving a compact car for 2 years it was a wake up call moving back to a full size crew cab pickup!

My F350 is the hardest vehicle to drive and park that I�ve ever had. Takes 2 football fields to turn the thing around, but so far 66k on the odometer and it�s never seen any shop time other than maintenance. I have to back into 99% of the parking spots that I park in.

If you get 14-15, I�ll be selling my diesel and going to a gasser!

Still mid 12's. No change yet.

Passed 13 mpg. Getting better economy than my 2006 6.0l.....TUNED.

Getting 15 from my 2013 F250 104,000 miles. Can get better if I keep my foot out of it. Mix highway and city. Long bed crew cab. Hard to park for sure.