Ok

I got them thanks, would running high rpm cause it to get hot?

what ya consider high?.. lotta variables.. long as pump, stats, adapter, gaskets, poppet, motor height good should be no problem under 7000.. even with oilier.

Ok thanks

Sounds identical to what my 96/97 EFI was doing to me a few months back. I was told it was the ECU and a bad fuel pump module inside. I sent it off to a guy in Tennessee named Dennis Hoffman to get it fixed. He claimed he fixed it for $600, but 2 mechanics told me it was still not working. Never did get it working right. I ended up trading boat and motor in for a newer one at a dealership. Supposedly they put a new ECU on it and it ran great.

Take you cowling off and turn the key to the on position and listen if your fuel pump kicks on. Mine would not and it was basically running out of gas because the ECU would quit power to the fuel pump intermittingly, then permanently. Your fuel pump should come on every time. If not, it is 'probably' the ECU. I don't suggest having it rebuilt and definitely not from Dennis Hoffman.

forgot.. tha key needs ta be "on" when ya test for buzzer....

Ok i didnt have a chance to test the buzzer but did check a couple of the plug to see if they was getting fire and they was. I could not hear the fuel pump come on when i turnes on the key though. How do i check that?

If you have cowling off and turn the key just to the on position, the fuel pump should come on. If it does, you will easily hear it. If it doesn't, then either ECU or fuel pump isn't working.

ok so do I just check voltage at pump to see if ECU is sending power? How long will ECU send power to pump once the key is turned on?

pump should run 30 seconds or less when key is turned on... tha ecu controls tha pump on tha "ground side".. disconnect tha neg from tha pump and tape it up leavin' tha positive hooked up... add a jumper wire to motor ground and turn key on again.. pump should come on.. if it still doesn't come on you can disconnect positive wire on tha pump from tha ecu... tape up tha end... leave tha neg. jumper on tha pump.. usin' a "jumper wire" apply 12v positive to positive post on pump.. if pump doesn't come on then pump is bad..

first ya need ta do some investigating inta tha over heat problem (melted stuff). that may be tha whole problem.. do compression.. read tha manual...

Ok last night i check compression cold all cylinders was 115 to 120. Checked fuel pump made it work wirk jumper. Got motor started again and it was not putting any water from tale tail after a little while on the muffs. I looked at ecu plug and it had somewhat come apart i am guessing this shut my engine down because of fuel pump not running. I am going to change water pump and check thermostates. Also the yellow wires from voltage regulator bullet connectors was melted a little.

now ya need ta make sure alarm buzzer is workin' before ya do anything else..

did pump motor run without "jumpers" after ya tightened ecu connector?..

separate and clean tha bullet connectors as best ya can.. best cut 'em off, solder and heat shrink those connections.... those connectors have destroyed many a regulator...

Yes it ran after i put it back togeather and cleaned grounds on ecu. I may put a temp gauge on motor just to make sure it does not get hot again. Also make sure buzzers are working. Thanks for the help.

put water pressure gauge high on tha list.... a bright red led tied into tha tan/blue on dash works better than anything for warning....

Ok thanks, my dash has a water pressure gauge but not sure it is working