Hull doesnt have any cracks. How do i trouble shoot this? I cant get the boat on top of the water because it's so heavy with leakage. Help appreciated.

My guess is its a hose to the bilge or live well. Check the connections on all of them.

Check motor transom bolts.Had to reseal mine last.

check all your bilge fittings, I had a friend with a 28 ft mako we were working on it putting some new hydraulic steering lines in and I noticed one of his overboard drain lines was cracked and water was no going out it was going in the side of the gunwhale and back into the bilge area he was wondering why the bilge would constantly come on that was why I had the same issue on my boat the deck drain on the starboard side was cracked and water was not going out it was going on the starboard side also same as my partner....by luck I found mine.

You didn't say what type of boat you have. Approaching the leak problem can vary a bit based on that, where some aspects are related to access and equipment.

Most people don't think about working on the problem in a reverse manner.
With the boat ON THE TRAILER:

1) Put water in each livewell/baitwell and run them as you would on the water. If you have more than one, fill only one at a time to do leak tests. Plumbing for a livewell can be the source of a leak, and this may help you find it. Make sure you fill them as full as you would on the water, or even more to account for splashing.

2) When ready to drain the livewells, have someone cover the drain port on the outside of the hull with a towel pressed firmly against it to hold the water from draining. (This simulates water coming into the drain hose from the outside.) Open the drain for a well, and watch for water appearing in the bilge. If you see none, allow it to drain, then do the same with other wells.

3) Plug the boat drain and raise the bow as high as you reasonably can in a safe way. Begin to fill the bilge with water. Watch for leaks outside the boat as the water level rises to each plumbing fitting. I am not suggesting that you flood the entire boat, just the part that can be safely flooded without causing damage or creating a mess. This is usually not a lot of water; too much would be bad for the trailer as water weighs over 8 pounds per gallon.

4) The above doesn't test for leaks at the outboard mounting bolts, but you seem to be describing a very liberal leak, which isn't what normally happens with loose engine mounting bolts.

What kind of boat? Glass or aluminum. Crack in an aluminum hull can be nearly invisible especially at the bow/keel. Lower the front of the boat trailer and add water to the inside and see if anything leaks out.
That's how I found one on an aluminum boat I once had.

cheap white elbow at inside of transom, crack is usually on the bottom so you can't see it. Replace with a grey elbow from Home Depot sprinkler section. The grey are high pressure, the white milky that comes with the boat is junk, you can break them with you hand. Good luck.

cheap white elbow at inside of transom, crack is usually on the bottom so you can't see it. Replace with a grey elbow from Home Depot sprinkler section. The grey are high pressure, the white milky that comes with the boat is junk, you can break them with you hand. Good luck.

I made the mistake of leaving emergency food in mt boat. A rat tried crawling from my baitwell through the drain hole and chewed a big hole in it.
Bass tracker 175. $12 part $175 labor. I don't leave food in my boat anymore though.

Thanks for all the advice men!

appreciate the help. I have an inboard outboard mercruiser. Its on a vip deckliner.

Considering its a sterndrive that's at least 10 years old I'd start by looking at the bellows first. Its a pretty common problem on older stern drives. I say at least 10 years old because that's how long ago VIP boats shut its doors.

Yes, its a 2002. Thanks again.