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#12344011 - 07/17/17 10:17 AM 24 v trolling motor installation
Nsbowhunter Offline
Green Horn

Registered: 06/18/17
Posts: 6
Loc: Irion county, tx
Ok I have done a bunch of research trying to figure out what is going on and I still can't figure it out. I bought a new to me bass boat and I put a brand new 24v maxxum trolling motor on it. When looking at the wires that are in place there are 4 of them. I believe this currently had (2) 12v option not a 24v set up. Ok so I'm pretty sure the batteries are wired correctly now to make 24v but I'm not getting any juice to the trolling motor. I think my problem is in the plug area. My thought is I can leave two wires dead and just rig it with the two wires. One hot one ground. Is it possible that the female in place can't convert the 24v and that's my problem? I have not tried wiring strait but that is my next step unless someone can give me suggestions other wise. I'd post a pic of the plug but I can't figure out how to post a pic here. My male and female plug are 4 prong type set up but I'm assuming with two wires only two are used. I'd appreciate in put on this.

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#12344040 - 07/17/17 10:34 AM Re: 24 v trolling motor installation [Re: Nsbowhunter]
Flippin-Out Offline
Extreme Angler

Registered: 02/25/15
Posts: 1822
Loc: Magnolia, TX
At one time, many bass boats simply carried the 4 battery terminals to the front deck with 4 wires. This let the owner have power available for 12V and 24V trolling motors, and it allowed an external charger to be plugged in at the bow to charge the batteries. In some cases, there was a 12/24 or "Run/Charge" switch associated with this setup. You didn't mention such a switch, so I assume you don't have one for this discussion.

For a 24V setup, a jumper inside the TM plug connected one battery positive to the other battery negative. The other two wires were then energized with 24V for a 24V only TM. It sounds like your plug doesn't have the jumper. You actually do not want to do it that way. Here is why: The jumper in the plug would result in a series connection cable that is potentially FORTY feet long. This is not ideal.

Open the plug up and make absolutely certain there is no stamped metal jumper between any two terminals. Next, disconnect/abandon one red wire and one black wire, but leave them in place as spares. These two should not be connected at either end. Use the red on one battery as +24V on the positive terminal, and the black wire as GND on the other battery. Place a 12 INCH 6 ga. jumper between the remaining + and - at the battery. You now have a 1 foot series connection instead of a forty foot series connection. Make sure your TM + and - match up correctly to the receptacle connections you made at the bow. Now you'll have a working 24V setup.

P.S.: Make sure you have a breaker near the +24V battery terminal. Also, newer TMs specify that they must be disconnected (not just "OFF") when charging batteries or costly damage may occur to the TM electronics. Many of us use a particular type breaker with a button allowing manual disconnect for charging. This is a convenience; you can unplug if you wish.

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#12344507 - 07/17/17 03:14 PM Re: 24 v trolling motor installation [Re: Nsbowhunter]
Nsbowhunter Offline
Green Horn

Registered: 06/18/17
Posts: 6
Loc: Irion county, tx
Pretty sure the batteries are hooked up correctly. Would you suggest getting a new style male/female plug for the bow?

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#12345252 - 07/17/17 11:18 PM Re: 24 v trolling motor installation [Re: Nsbowhunter]
Flippin-Out Offline
Extreme Angler

Registered: 02/25/15
Posts: 1822
Loc: Magnolia, TX
"batteries hooked up correctly".....

There has to be a connection (somewhere) from the + of one battery to the - of the second battery. If there is not, you do not have the "batteries hooked up correctly". Whether that connection is 12 inches of wire between the posts, or a connection at the bow for those two battery leads - it must be done somewhere. A receptacle does not "convert" two 12V sources into 24V. The batteries must be wired in series....

If you have done this, a voltmeter (such as a $15 voltage test meter) will show that you have 24V at the bow when checking between a particular red/black set of cables. If you don't have 24V, then it's not wired correctly. A new "style" of male/female plug/receptacle is very very unlikely to fix a thing. I've been doing this for 40+ years, and I sense lack of knowing what you are doing given that no understandable description of what you have, what you have done, or exactly what connections have been made has been provided. I'm basically having to guess.

You have yet to say what has been done with each of the 4 wires. I bet 99 to 1 that's where the problem is. If your boat had a 12V setup that measured 12V previously, then it can be used to run a 24V motor. The wires in the boat don't care whether the power is at 12V or 24V - it's just two conductors. The difference that the 24V system needs one extra connection - the series connection. Simply connecting the other red and black wires in the boat to the other battery terminals does not create a series connection. Do you get this? (You really don't even need those 2 wires!)


Edited by Flippin-Out (07/17/17 11:20 PM)

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#12345389 - 07/18/17 07:03 AM Re: 24 v trolling motor installation [Re: Nsbowhunter]
2015fordnut Online   sick
Extreme Angler

Registered: 06/24/09
Posts: 1830
Loc: Garland, TX
Here is a diagram of a 12/24 volt setup from my boat when it had an older MotorGuide 12/24 motor. In your case just leave the 12v wire terminated in the plug and use the neg and 24 wire to yours.

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#12346711 - 07/18/17 07:00 PM Re: 24 v trolling motor installation [Re: 2015fordnut]
Flippin-Out Offline
Extreme Angler

Registered: 02/25/15
Posts: 1822
Loc: Magnolia, TX
You should be sure to mention a breaker is a very necessary safety requirement (since your basic drawing didn't show one). Those not familiar with electrical work might not understand how truly important that breaker is for safety....

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#12346735 - 07/18/17 07:12 PM Re: 24 v trolling motor installation [Re: Nsbowhunter]
Bob Landry Online   content
Extreme Angler

Registered: 08/10/11
Posts: 2564
Loc: Austin, Tx
The cables to the bow should be 6ga. Your TM manual will tell you what size breaker to use. It should be as close to the power source as possible. It is there to protect the wire, not the trolling motor.
Also spend the $$$ and get a quality resettable circuit breaker, such as Blue Sea, not one of the little grey ones your local dealer sells. Electrical is no place to skimp.
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#12346979 - 07/18/17 09:16 PM Re: 24 v trolling motor installation [Re: Bob Landry]
TrailHand Offline
Outdoorsman

Registered: 05/18/17
Posts: 91
Originally Posted By: Bob Landry
The cables to the bow should be 6ga. Your TM manual will tell you what size breaker to use. It should be as close to the power source as possible. It is there to protect the wire, not the trolling motor.
Also spend the $$$ and get a quality resettable circuit breaker, such as Blue Sea, not one of the little grey ones your local dealer sells. Electrical is no place to skimp.



Personal story on those cheapies, when I first bought my boat it had one installed. I didn't know any better and my motor blew - I tried to use the trolling motor to get me home. Turned it on, put it to 100% speed, and it took off dragging my boat behind it....for about 5 minutes. Then it quit altogether. I never figured it out that night. Three kids in the boat and I was stranded after dark. Finally got clear enough directions to the lake patrol for them to find us and drag us back in (thank goodness for our lake patrol!)

Back home, I got to looking and that stupid little fuse breaker thing had blown, causing us to be permanently stranded. It's in the landfill now. I never wanted another one either.

I didn't think it was important until reading this thread caused me to research some trolling motor overheat horror stories. Probably going to order a new Blue Sea tonight. eeks

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#12347400 - 07/19/17 06:53 AM Re: 24 v trolling motor installation [Re: Flippin-Out]
2015fordnut Online   sick
Extreme Angler

Registered: 06/24/09
Posts: 1830
Loc: Garland, TX
Originally Posted By: Flippin-Out
You should be sure to mention a breaker is a very necessary safety requirement (since your basic drawing didn't show one). Those not familiar with electrical work might not understand how truly important that breaker is for safety....


I apologize my art-work skills are not the best I will one day correct the drawing, but for now it is just a guide to get across the idea to a novice (so to speak). Yes you are correct in saying that a good quality "resettable" breaker should be in-line with the positive cables and as close to the battery as possible.
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#12347459 - 07/19/17 07:44 AM Re: 24 v trolling motor installation [Re: Nsbowhunter]
TrailHand Offline
Outdoorsman

Registered: 05/18/17
Posts: 91
Heres a surface mount I ordered for those without a switchbox in the battery bay. Installation is easy.

Blue sea breaker


Edited by TrailHand (07/19/17 08:52 PM)

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#12350328 - 07/20/17 04:32 PM Re: 24 v trolling motor installation [Re: 2015fordnut]
Flippin-Out Offline
Extreme Angler

Registered: 02/25/15
Posts: 1822
Loc: Magnolia, TX
Originally Posted By: 2015fordnut
Originally Posted By: Flippin-Out
You should be sure to mention a breaker is a very necessary safety requirement (since your basic drawing didn't show one). Those not familiar with electrical work might not understand how truly important that breaker is for safety....


I apologize my art-work skills are not the best I will one day correct the drawing, but for now it is just a guide to get across the idea to a novice (so to speak). Yes you are correct in saying that a good quality "resettable" breaker should be in-line with the positive cables and as close to the battery as possible.


No apology necessary. I was pointing out the obvious (breaker) that many of us are aware of, but SOME aren't. We all know there's a breaker in the details of the wiring, right? Yes for us die-hards, and maybe not for those new to DIY boat work. I learned they take our words and suggestions literally, which can be not-so-good if we don't include EVERYTHING, even the obvious. I had to learn to be very specific in helping people with issues, lest they fail or do harm because of something I failed to tell them.
(Example, charge a new battery overnight before you expect it to deliver full power.)

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#12352065 - 07/21/17 04:13 PM Re: 24 v trolling motor installation [Re: 2015fordnut]
Lazy Ike Offline
Outdoorsman

Registered: 03/09/16
Posts: 238
Loc: garland
Hi ford nut,guess iam one too.I regularly look at this part of forum,have learned a few good things on here.I have older P2 runs good since had some needed maint. done, but have learned from your posts and others on here thanks ya'll for help.Ford Nut you seem knowledgeable you mech. or electrican by trade.Wondering bout my 3 bank charger,{ BP 5 5 5} if working correct should I get increase in volts on my meter when plugged in? Hope you can help.The 2oo2 F Nut,says thanks.

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#12355273 - 07/24/17 07:06 AM Re: 24 v trolling motor installation [Re: Lazy Ike]
2015fordnut Online   sick
Extreme Angler

Registered: 06/24/09
Posts: 1830
Loc: Garland, TX
Originally Posted By: Lazy Ike
Hi ford nut,guess iam one too.I regularly look at this part of forum,have learned a few good things on here.I have older P2 runs good since had some needed maint. done, but have learned from your posts and others on here thanks ya'll for help.Ford Nut you seem knowledgeable you mech. or electrican by trade.Wondering bout my 3 bank charger,{ BP 5 5 5} if working correct should I get increase in volts on my meter when plugged in? Hope you can help.The 2oo2 F Nut,says thanks.


Been in the HVAC industry since 1979, anywhere from residential to heavy commercial. Currently in the Direct Digital Controls side of the business now programming systems. I always try to help any time I can. Answer to your charger system, leads are paired and red is positive and should have an in line fuse black or another color will be negative. Measure voltage on battery prior to plugging in charger and when you plug in charger you should see a voltage increase of around 2-4 volts. If there are no indicator lights or a red light or warning it could most likely be a blown fuse. I have a Minn Kota charger and this is an example from the manual

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