I'm really starting to fine tune my fishing and get away from some of the "old-school" stuff my bank busting dad taught me. Granted I've learned a lot from him but I know there are better ways of doing some things. Like which lines are better for which baits/presentations.
I understand that fluorocarbon sinks vs mono which tends to float. So would baits like deep cranks that need to get deep fast and even maybe some of my suspending jerk baits be better candidates for a flouro line? What else might be best served on flouro?
I use braid for jigs and t-rigged worms, topwater frogs and even my squarebills. I typically use a co-poly for everything else because my understanding is that it has better abrasion resistance. A little better insight sure would help.

Thanks

I really use fluorocarbon on with everything. Flipping, crankbaits, finesse fishing etc. The only time I ever use mono would be if I'm throwing like a topwater popper or a spook, or occasionally I'll use mono on my Carolina rigs to help the plastic float a little better. And I only use braid when I have to, which is like throwing frogs or punching thick cover.

If I were throwing jigs and t-rigs in braid it would have to be in pads or flipping. But as far as any other time it would be flouro. I'd only use flouro on my square bill also.

Personally, I use fluoro on almost everything.

Texas Rigs, jigs, c-rigs, or any other similar presentation 17Lb line, I will drop or increase depending. I want little to no stretch when I set the hook. especially if I am fishing 20+ away from the boat, the rod provides all you need here.

Deep Diving crank baits I use 12Lb (unless they are 8XD or 10XD, or the comparable 25+ I use 15Lb) Mono has its place here, but as you stated I feel as if the smaller diameter, less stretch, and weight/non-floating qualities of fluoro get my baits deeper, faster, with less resistance.

Square bills I use 15Lb, because I am generally fishing heavy cover and I want the strength more than the diving depth.

Jerk Baits I use 10lb, but I will use a combination of line size, hook/splitring/ and suspendots to help give my bait the action it needs, or if I want it to suspend.

Now top waters I use Mono or Braid, depending on what baits and where.

My spinning tackle has 20lb braid on it with a 6-10Lb leader. The braid helps with line management since it has no memory.

I use fluoro and braid for flipping and pitching, it just depends on what and what kind of vegetation.

Now all that being said, this is just what I have found works for me. I know several good fishermen who run different set ups. I have just found good quality fluorocarbon ( I say that because brand matters, and you get what you pay for) with proper management, has been outstanding for abrasion resistance, and toughness. Knock on wood, but I RARELY break off. If I do its usually my fault for not checking mine line for nicks or retying after catching a fish. It seems silly but every time i do, I run my fingers up and down the line just to check and make sure its all good. Also I periodically retie once or twice a day just to be safe if I am fishing a lot of rock or any structure that is subject to damage my line. Also I can not stress proper drag adjustment. I have lost several good fish because I have had it too loose or too tight. Just find a spot that's comfortable to you, the fish need to be able to pull drag when they surge other wise you will have bent hooks, or broken line.

I hope this helps answer a few of you questions.

Tight lines

Like you I returned to bass fishing, 20 year break to raise kids:), and have spent the last year relearning/educating myself on EVERYTHING. What I do know if your cranks will not get nearly as deep as advertised w/o using fluorocarbon. smaller the #test the deeper it goes. So I simplified it to if I want it to float, slower fall rate = Mono/Copoly, if I need to to sink = Fluoro, heavy cover = braid

Now all we have to do is factor in the variables of type of structure/cover, abrasion issues, stretch factors.....Then we've got it all figured out:))

But I hate changing line so I tried to simplify it.

I use fluorocarbon for 95% of my fishing. I use braid for topwater and punching/heavy pitching. It just suits me better, personally.

Personally I would start back with what you left off with. Fishing today is alot harder than 20 years ago.Catch fish, then work on technical junk.

Dont be fooled by all the fluorocarbon addicts. Theyre brainwashed by KVD and all who get paid to promote Fluoro. It has its place because the line does sing compared to mono.

12lb Big Game has a thickness of .012, Seaguar Invizx 12 pound is .011. One thousand of an inch diameter is good for how much more depth? Also, the sink rate of Fluoro is not greater than the dive rate of your crank bait.

Im sure Thad or someone has done some tresting and can chime in.

Seeing as our highland reservoirs are anywhere from dirty to stained waters I use braid for t-rigs, c-rigs (10-12# flouro leader), and nearly all top water baits. Fish don't see it, castability is second to none and the sensitivity is just as good. It also lasts a lot longer than mono or flouro.

Anything that moves, cranks or swims under water I'm using flouro. Great sensitivity, helps those suspending or floating hard baits stay down in the water column. While flouro sinks you have to be mindful of the diameter you're fishing with. 6# flouro will sink much more effectively than 20# flouro because of its thickness or lack thereof. Using 12, 10 or even 8-9# flouro will get that diving bait down another foot or two while thicker diameter line will force it to fish a foot or two shallower than advertised.

Flipping & pitching I'll use braid unless it's in heavy lay downs in which I'll use 20-25# flouro. Braid will cut into the tree and often become lodged. Flouro won't do that and it is abrasion resistant.

Having said all that I started fishing not long ago with just using mono because that's all I knew. I've evolved mostly because of that sensitivity that the other lines provide. It's hard to pass that up even though they are more expensive.

I've been "back into" fishing for several years now, hence me starting to fine tune my approach. I've caught fish and seen what works and what doesn't and am trying to figure out if there isn't a better alternative to some of the ways I've been doing it.
I think they all have their place but I'm leaning heavily on switching to fluoro for everything but topwater and shallow cranking. I fish around a lot of timber and using braid around it gets a bit hairy as there is no give if I get hung up. I cut a lot of braid off vs being able to bust the mono. I'm sure that I could probably bust the fluoro too if done right.
The sensitivity is what is appealing to me. I watch my mono or braid float and not really stay in direct contact with the bait and wonder what all I'm missing down there. I'm going to change out a couple of reels before we head to Rayburn and give it a test. I'm thinking that it will be one of my few missing links.....

I use fluorocarbon on all my bait casters except for 8' flipping/swim bait setup which is heavy braid. For worms, jigs I use 15 pound, for crankbaits I use 10 pound.

for finesse spinning rods I use braid with a flurocarbon leader

Always.

I only use Fluoro when I have to.......which aint very often thank God! I hate it but when it comes to really clear water I bite the bullet and put some on a fairy wand.

Floruro is over blown to me, don't use it unless I do not have anything else. The line sinking is a myth on moving baits. A deep diving CB will get an additional 1.5 to 2.5" deeper, unless that is the ultimate extreme of what you are looking for, it doesn't work too well. LINE DIAMETER IS THE DETERMINE FACTOR, as well as a properly tuned bait and speed of retrieve that determines how deep the bait runs. For instance, McCoys mean green, even though it is made with silicone, 12 # test has a line diameter of .01 or .011, thus, allowing it go get deeper as the main determine factor. Some people ay they are getting an additional 6" to 2' with it, but they are not. THEY may FEEL MORE because of the less stretch and sensitivity, but the lure is not getting that much deeper, because it is MOVING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Hope this helps. Tight lines, keep safe and good luck. Ask questions if you wan too.

Thad Rains

Sorry it took so long, I was attending my cousins funeral in Albu. and had no internet access.

FC for almost everything. Mono only for topwater. FC beats mono hands down for sensitivity.

I use it for everything but topwater.