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Max Online: 36273 @ 01/23/13 02:34 PM
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#12302531 - 06/20/17 10:38 AM Older motor
OIF3 Offline
Angler

Registered: 10/02/08
Posts: 257
Loc: Fredericksburg TX
I have a 1967, 18 hp Evinrude Fastwin. Runs OK just can't get the idle adjusted right. Any help or assistance is appreciated.
_________________________
"If everybody's thinking alike, somebody isn't thinking"
George S. Patton

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#12302812 - 06/20/17 01:22 PM Re: Older motor [Re: OIF3]
FalafelSupreme Offline
Outdoorsman

Registered: 07/08/13
Posts: 27
Loc: Brownwood, Tx
I'm by no means an expert, but I did find a post on the iboats forum from a user named Joe Reeves. Sorry if this doesn't help but I just had to do a similar thing to my '93 evinrude. Couldn't find any videos on youtube for that particular year unfortunately.

Quote:
Re: 1967 Evinrude 18 hp carb adjust

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

(Carburetor Float Setting)
(J. Reeves)

With the carburetor body held upside down, the float being viewed from the side, adjust the float so that the free end of the float (the end opposite the hinge pin) is ever so slightly higher (just ever so slightly off level) than the other end. And when viewed from the end, make sure it is not cocked.
_________________________
"I'm a rather simple person with a limited talent, and perhaps a limited perspective." - Bill Evans

"I disapprove of what you say but I will defend to the death your right to say it." - Evelyn Beatrice Hall

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#12309523 - 06/24/17 09:48 AM Re: Older motor [Re: OIF3]
Muzzlebrake Online   content
Extreme Angler

Registered: 12/26/14
Posts: 1630
Loc: Euless
The nice thing about carbs with low speed idle circuits/air bleed is that every time the weather changes, Barometric pressure/temperature/humidity/density altitude etc the carb low and intermediate settings will not be correct. Finding that happy medium is sometimes just not possible on an old worn out carb.
_________________________
From Genesis: "And God promised men that good and obedient wives would be found in all corners of the earth."

Then He made the earth round...and He laughed and laughed and laughed!


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#12316144 - 06/28/17 11:09 PM Re: Older motor [Re: OIF3]
OIF3 Offline
Angler

Registered: 10/02/08
Posts: 257
Loc: Fredericksburg TX
FSupreme, tried what you sent and it has indeed helped, just got to do a little more tuning.
_________________________
"If everybody's thinking alike, somebody isn't thinking"
George S. Patton

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#12317005 - 06/29/17 01:34 PM Re: Older motor [Re: OIF3]
redchevy Offline
TFF Celebrity

Registered: 01/25/05
Posts: 6877
Loc: texas
I feel your pain. I have a 1957 7.5 HP had similar problems with it. The packing nuts on mine had come loose and you set them and with the vibration of the motor they would move on their own. I rebuilt the carb and there were some cork washers under the packing nuts I replaced and it made a big difference.

Mine also runs the pressurized fuel tank... wich is a pain in the rear if you don't have one of the correct tanks.

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