That's getting up there in seriousness. Only times I find myself getting into an aero position normally is when I'm going into a headwind, or I'm riding on a road with vehicles and I want to go as fast as I can. Might do it more now with this shorter stem, it was too tough being stretched out before.

You buddies flappy shorts and t shirt were slowing him down....tell him he needs spandex.

When he got his bike I told him the first thing he needed to do was clean the dirvetrain up real good, even gave him a can of de-greaser, and to get some real cycling gear.

When we went on our ride the other day he hadn't done either, but I think his shorts were in the mail. He ordered a "new" crankset on ebay to replace what he buggered up, think we're going to try and replace it tomorrow.

Get him fixed up and tell him tuck in and hold on!

Found it!

That's pretty informative. From that one I ended up watching a wind tunnel video where they were testing different wheels. Neat stuff, learned why they're more aero than say these below.

In other news... I got this thing put together, only thing I don't like is where the rear brakepads sit on the caliper, they're as far down as they can go, they still only hit the wheel, but are just real close to the tire. Think I can file down the track they sit in and maybe get another mm or two and get it right.

I put the cassette I had on these wheels on the carbon wheels, since it was "paired" with the chain, (wear wise) said the expert. So I found the exact same cassette on ebay, picked up a new chain since the old one was for a 7 or 8 speed and wouldn't work. New chain cost more than the dang cassette . Now I'll also be able to switch wheels out between bikes since everything jives back and forth. I kind of what to see how fast this thing will go with those carbon wheels, since it's got 4 more teeth on the big chainring than my other bike. Could it be faster even though it probably has another 10lbs on it????? I've also got some same era aero bars that could go back onto this thing.



With those friction shifters on the downtube, you don't have to worry about indexing so you can run any cassette. Since you can move the derailleur anywhere you want it, till it's just right. I'd seen some real cool old bikes that'd been really upgraded, where they did away with the downtube shifters, and went to either shimano sti or sram shifters but then you run into the problems where you have to have the same cassette as whatever shifter you have, and you have to have 10 speed shifters for 10 speed cassette and so on. And this away, I also don't have a bunch of cables around the handlebars, so it looks super clean.

I found some Continental GP4000 for a steal. Got daddy two new shoes! Man it felt nice.

They do feel gripy.

Nice, those look like some pretty good tires. Fast and good puncture resistance.

I had one Gatorskin (my factory tire had been cut by a rock), it was nice too....more puncture resistance of any tire....but dang slow. Now what do I do with one Gatorskin tire that is still good condition? LOL!

It's the little things, finally got my wire crimps and cable ferrules in to complete everything. Funny the difference (in appearance) that makes. The old calipers had the ferrule kind of built in. Also got some red screws for the bottle cages. Got the bling!
Getting into this, I've realized there's really no end to it. Like the cables, cables are cables right? Nope, there's companies that specialize in high performance cables, Jagwire Elite for example.

Ahh, the extra parts are starting to accumulate, soon you'll be able to build another bike.