Any of yall done anything over stock to your bikes yet? I won a new front derailleur on ebay for next to nothing yesterday. Thinking I'm going to try and get some higher end components on it, got a few more auctions I'm watching, shifters/levers & brakesets.

Would really like some new wheels, but it doesn't seem deals on those come around too often.

Mine came with 105, so not sure where else to go next. I'm happy with it so far.

I did get the Aero Bars (at xmas) put on mine and I really like them on certain stretches of roads or wind. Helps me relax my shoulders too.

I did replace my cheap tires....made big difference in sound, smoothness and speed. I just wish I had gone with the GP4000 instead. It's faster they say than the Gatorskins.

I added speed and cadence sensors. (also xmas gift)

Next thing I want is a power meter....but dang $$$

What bike do you have?

I don't know if I would, but Ultegra then Dura-Ace are the next levels up.
And yeah those power meters are ridiculously expensive. I'm not sure I'm at the level where I'd benefit from one. With the speed/cadence sensors, on Strava Premium it gives you an estimated power chart. I know more is better but that's getting to the level of counting grams and crazy stuff and that equals more and more $$$$


2013 Felt F6
As it sits right now, it's got no-name brakes, maybe Trektro? Sram Apex (I think is a grade under 105) shifters/levers, front derailleur and whatever their entryish crankset/cassette are. It does have a Force RD which is about the Shimano Ultegra equivalent, so that's what FD I got. It's pretty trick. Thinking about doing the shifters and possibly brakes all to Force, or maybe Ultegra brakes if I can find a deal on them.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LY05DFQ?psc=1

Here is an upgrade. Being from Texas shouldn't we have one of these?

Too funny

Well, if you want to know frustrating, try setting up a front derailleur from scratch. I think I got it about 98% how it's supposed to be. Probably just a 1/8th screw turn or a 1mm or less cable tension adjustment or something like that would get it right. Going from the small to big ring isn't as smooth as I'd like, but it doesn't drop the chain off either so that's good, and I think it should work just fine, it did on the trainer last night...

Freaking shifters are expensive, probably going to have to hold off on those. If I can find a deal on a brakeset, that's what I'd like to do next.

The differences between the Shimano lines are not very pronounced once you go past the 105 for most components. However if the $$ is not much more for key components - I always consider the bottom bracket, gear set and rear derailer for these....it might be worth upgrading but its only for the cool factor. The weight savings is negligible also.

The average rider would have a tough time wearing out 105 components on a road bike short of a crash related issue or not cleaning anything. They are just built so well these days.

Brian, now you see why bike shops exists. Tuning them is like rocket science. Everyone I talk too locally....not a single person adjust theirs themselves, well besides one young pro.

I tried doing it with You Tube....head ache. I got it working. Guy just last week said he thought his was smooth until the bike shop tuned it then he realized how not in tune he had it.

I need to buckle down and take mine in. Shifts fine, but I wonder how much better it could be.

They're really pretty simple, it's just having it in the right position when you start, atleast with the front. You have the inner and outer limits, and cable tension. If you're off from the start it might work, but not as good as it should. And when I say fustriating, it really wasn't that bad. Might've took 30ish min total. Break chain, pull off old one, put on new one and start the process. I found a good video of how to set it up, and could probably do the whole thing in under 10 now.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnG3t7TyRm0
I'm about sick of eaby, when I got this I thought there were lots of deals to be had. Seemed everything was under $20 bucks . Now it seems everything starts out less than 10 and by the time it's done it's well on its way to 100.

See here in Wichita, sure there's a bunch of people who take their bikes in, but our shops are hiiiiiigh on labor if you didn't buy your bike from them, so alot of people do it their self's.

What I spent on that old Bridgestone last year for cables, tubes, tires, bar tape, and getting it all put on and working was more than I could ever sell that bike for. Want to say it was like $80/hr just for labor.

Think if you just keep your bike clean/lubed, and anytime you see or hear something that isn't normal fix it right then, and don't let it build up you'll avoid a lot of problems. Sure things break, but knowing how to spot it before it happens is my philosophy to keep this hobby affordable.

http://www.bikeandfitness.com/services

Here is how our bike shop does it. Seems fair to me. I know I spent around a total of 4 hours working on mine, just messing with front and back adjustments (at one time chair was so loose it would fall off, other times so tight it wouldn't shift, to rubbing front to rubbing back, then adjust everything all over again). 1.5 hours on time for it not to work good as it was, 2.5 hours to get it back to functioning. I learned my lesson.

Plus without a bike local bike shop in business I'd be driving to Tyler (given they can keep a local business too) or Dallas to work on a bike. I sure don't want that to happen. That's all the locals favorite thing to say out this way.

BTW I charge $50 per man per hour to move office furniture(always a 2 or more man job). $80 is going hourly rate for any repairs now days. Plumbers can be more....they know we will pay it.

1-2mm off cage does not work on mine. Video I did this by said the same thing. Depends on chain ring if I'm not mistaken.

How big is your big chain ring?

Sounds like you need to start being a bike mechanic. I doubt you make $80 bucks an hour currently.

Far from 80 an hour. They have different levels like that, but anything outside of it, that's the rate. You'd think if you got the "performance" package they'd take care of you, but not quite. Kind of rubbed me the wrong way on that bike so I've just slowly figured how to do stuff myself. Now that I can stand my bike up in the trainer and spin the pedals, it's a whole lot easier to adjust stuff and make sure everything is working. My dad has a bike stand I need to nab next time I'm over there, it's a big heavy duty one that'd fit in nice in my shop.

I forget how big my chain ring is, I kind of eyeballed it, not too close and not too far... Another video I saw said to use the width of a penny to start with.