Went to install a Talon on my boat yesterday and found a wet transom when I pulled the bolts. Transom showed no signs of being weak. I've pulled the engine and have put a couple of heat lamps on it and plan on leaving them for 2-3 weeks. I got about 4 or 5 tbsp of water come out initially but after the lamps heated it up, I had about a cup of water come out over night. It seems to have stopped dripping now. I've heard of this method being used but don't know much about it. Anyone familiar with it and what to look for or anything special to do? Right now it's just the 4 bolt holes and the top cap cover off. Haven't messed with it much but the wood still seems to be solid. Any way to tell when it has dried enough?

Looks like someone in the past just used silicone on the holes which didn't do a very good job of sealing it.

West Marine has a product called GOTROT think this is what you need,

If its wet, you've lost the structural integrity of the wood. Replace transom

Time out.
To the uninformed, that champ transom has a 99% chance of being like new again.
It's not "wood" it's a 14 layer laminate of glass and kiln dried fir, which doesn't "rot"

It takes two weeks, pull the motor/plate/anything else that's attached to the transom, get two home depot heat lamps, set them a foot from the transom and let it cook. Reseal and put it all back together, good as new. We've done this successfully way way too many times not to give it a go.

AND......
To anyone reading this.
IF your boat is ten years old, get it resealed. Regardless of brand. It's just cheap insurance.

Stupid question but how do you reseal it. Do you have to pull the motor off?

I'm glad you asked because I didn't want too. Lol!

Jackson_Ranger, glad I bought that talon from you otherwise I wouldn't have known the problem existed. I think that I'll dry this out and then carry it to my mechanic to have him reseal it properly.

THANK YOU PAT GOFF!!!! Bobby is a personal friend & I asked him yesterday if it was clear water or brown goo. He said clear water. I told him what you have said for many years. He bought 2 heat lamps, hung the motor, pulled the aluminum top cap on transom. I told him 2-3 weeks with heat lamps. Im going by there to see personally what he's got. But he has already started. We will reseal with 3M 4200 as you also said over the years. He said he took a point & couldn't sink it into the wood, it was still hard, so maybe he's caught it in time. We did replace all thru hull fittings about 2 months ago & resealed with 4200... he also told me it looks like motor was installed with no sealant inside bolt holes, just a ring of silicone around the holes. Therein the problem. But, no brown oozing goo is a good sign.

4200 is your sealant. 5200 never comes off.

Jackson & D.Brock, yes, you hang the motor on an engine hoist with a lifting eye screwed onto top of crankshaft at flywheel & just swing it to the side. No disconnect of cables,harnesses, or fuel lines. Theres usually enough slack.
Once its dried out (Fir doesn't rot when wet) coat the inside of bolt holes with 3M 4200 sealant. Not 5200, not silicone!!! Put bolts thru ,stab motor back on. Turn bolts no more than 1/2 turn then put nuts on & make them up all the way turning the nuts ONLY,not the bolts. Hold backup on bolts so they dont spin. Torque nuts down to spec & let set 24-36 hrs & it should be good to go.
Pat is one of the men to ask on anything Champion. Hes been around a few. For a few years. Thanks again Pat.
I resealed my 98' Triton Tr20 when I installed jackplate & this is how I did it. No problems so far.

Well carp,
I edited it. Sorry Pat. Its 4200. We couldnt find 4200 when we were looking for it. 3 Lowes & 2 Home Depots. They had plenty of 5200. We fonally found it at the last store.
Its been awhile but i went out to shop & found it. Sure enough it was 4200 we used. Thanks for catching my mis-quote.

Good thing, it takes a massive amount of effort to get 5200 off something.

Yessir.... Ive asked Ronnie about that Yamaha part youre looking for. Hopefully he'll have one. Thanks again for youre input on Bobby's Champion.

Yes sir, unfortunately is is costing more money but it could have gotten worse.

Thanks!

Not a stupid question at all. Always heard a stupid question was the question you didn't ask. It's about educating yourself to repair procedures & tricks to save time & money. Also where & when NOT to go the cheapest route that winds up NOT being the cheapest in the long run.