The heat lamps didn't work for me. When I got down and started cleaning it for prep, I found 2 cracks at the edge of the motor mount bracket. Evidentally, the previous owner had used silicone to try and seal it up, all the way around the mount. It was hidden from view with the mount on the boat and the hull had been cleaned so there were no signs of a leak. I had noticed some staining below the bracket but thought that it was just from oil leaking out of the reservoir which is engine mounted. The caps are notorious for leaking and I found out that mine leaked the first time I filled it and tilted the motor. Upon closer examination, with everything removed, you could see where it had leaked out of the crack and spread. I also found the top of the transom had partially delaminated.

I decided to pour a transom in to repair it. I opened it today and it was trashed. It looked like layers of mulch sandwiched between multiple layers of fiberglass. I wish I had checked it sooner because I had taken about 2 weeks off to go to Fork and I could have fixed it by now instead of spending that time making the repairs.

On a positive note, (I've had to do one before and it was a PIA) this time I decided to use a chainsaw. The thought of one running inside the transom was kind of unnerving but it was just going to be too difficult to do it any other way. Already been there, done that and got the t-shirt. I went and bought a cheap electric chainsaw and it is making short work of it. I will probably have it all removed in one day when I get back from work.

On the right track. Hard pill to swallow, but now you'll have a transom thats rock solid & you KNOW it. Seacast & youre back to fishing.

On a side note: I don't know why boat manufacturers havent gone to SOLID core transoms. I know theyve got to sell boats but most people would be more than willing to pay more to KNOW transom issues were pretty much a thing of the past. I know I would. Oh well, guess we'll keep on wishing huh.

Holy carp that transom is dirt, any updates?

Spent two days on cleaning it out. Started fast but the deeper I go the slower it gets. Hopefully will have it finished today. It was like that most all the way through.

Kingfishers were notorious for the problem you are dealing with-buyer beware. So my pictures looked like yours and I cut the splashwell out and glassed a new one after pouring a Seacast transom. The chainsaw part of the clean out is scary but a Remington electric is not as bad. I did have to use a Stihl to get to the bottom. New aerator and bilge pumps while it was open. It is definitely an education as far as wood cored fiberglass boats. Incidentally Interlux paint is great when you finish it out!

been there, done that, got the T-shirt.

Like that!

Interesting thread. Makes me thankful for Seaark's aluminum channel transom.

I have an Xpress now! Live and learn.

Are you going back with wood or coosa board, found this video of a guy replacing a big transom with coosa https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8L0OVjVQyI

I thought about coosa board. I am going with a pourable transom similar to seacast. I've poured one before and it works really well.

After days of chiseling away a 1/2" at a time with a mallet and xtra long prybar, my arm and shoulder could not continue. I went to Harbor Freight looking for something else to help. I found these.


Taped it to the pry bar so that I could reach the area. Surprisingly, once I figured out the technique to use it was pretty fast and easy. I found that just lightly bouncing it against the crud, the blades worked very well in removing it small bits at a time. Had it cleared out in no time. Now I just need to do a little clean up, fiberglass up a small hole inside that my pry bar made and I'm ready to pour the transom.

Sweet little tool, looks like it would be hell on a finger.