I've had success with my Lee Production IV pot for many pouring sessions but am at a standstill with heat and successful pouring for my small heads. Very frustrating. Its a down-pour spout and the spout is clear and fine just can't seem to get the right angle, heat or something even with 4 inches of clearance. Says 'infinite heat settings.
Any suggestions cause i sure do like the small pony head with the 00 willow blades on crappie. Just cant get a good pour.

Two issues I know about causing this type problem are:
1) Lead not hot enough. Pure lead pours easier than lead with added antimony or other alloys. Added alloys require more heat.
2) For small heads, make sure there is enough clearance around the hook for lead to pass. Tight places tend to stack up the lead as it has good adhesion properties.
Having the mold and hook plenty hot helps the lead flow easier. But you can't get the hook too hot or that ruins the temper.

I would make sure that you flux and stir your lead repeatedly until it is shining like a mirror. Fill the mold up several times w/o any hooks in it to get it smoking hot and then hold it at a slight angle when you pour the lead in. You might have to use a ladle if you don't have a strong enough stream of lead coming out of your pot. I had tons of issues w/ my Lee pot getting stopped up so I ponied up the dough for an RCBS and stopped having any issues.

Thank you both. I will flux and I'll check the hook clearance and get my mold hotter as well.

I think keeping the mold hot will really help.

Heating the mold and dry pouring it a few times is a must,as mentioned....Sometimes its just a matter of tilting your mold in/out or left to right to help the first shot of lead to hit the bottom of the jig cavity .

This will help also---- rise the handle quickly up n down and let a small amount of the "setup" or cooler lead in the pots spout shoot thru and then immediately put the mold under it and fill it. Watch out for the splatter though , I do this even with my RCBS if I'm having trouble while using a (lrg hook shaft-small collar/barb cavity) type jigs.

Here's 2 more things might help. Try holding the open mold above a burning candle and let it smoke/wax up each side of the cavity this turns it dark but does no damage it, this "coating" will last for quite a while before you have to do it again.. this really helps with fine detail and gives you a smoother outer shell/body... Also works great to give you a smoother finish for lrg spoon slab type baits with large flat sides.

I have also had molds that fit so tight together it seemed the AIR couldn't get out of mold as fast as lead was coming in. I have made deep scratches from the lure to the open part of the mold...i.e. from the barb tip to the lower part of the mold where it isn't touching together..I also have modified the throat of the mold to open up the flow hole , you have to be carful here not to mess you your jig head shape.
I never cut my scrap away from the head I wiggle/twist until it breaks off to me it leaves a smoother mark on the jig head over cutting it.
also I like to grind a V channel along the top between the cavity's so I can do a continuous pour all the way from one end to the other end of the mold doing my best to keep the flow over the caivity throat as I move from one to the next, this helps keep a constant "hot" lead flow coming in, also after it sets up it holds all my jigs in a group this makes them easier to break or twist them off.

The most common causes are the answers you already have, especially the one with the antimony and harder metals being in the lead. The harder lead will work but many lead pots just don't get to a high enough temp. The RCBS goes up to 825* and is worth the money, mine is around 25 years old with no troubles..If you have used any wheel balancer Etc. you already have added antimony and tin to your pot so you may have to empty it and start over.
For truly small jigs you may want to save back some pure soft lead. I sometimes see large 4 to 8 oz fishing sinkers cheap enough to buy and melt down at places like Academy. The lead that comes from old commercial roof vents are very soft so is the lead used in the walls of xray rooms if you know someone in remolding.

Good Luck!!

One thing you may also want to try is to hold your mold right up to the spout... Tap your handle quickly to fill the cavity. Your mold needs to be hot. Good luck

first thinh I would try would be to dust the cavities with baby powder, It often works wonders. Personally, I coat all of my molds with drop out from frankford arsenal. Really helps with difficult fill.

Clean metal and hot mold are essential. Clean metal is critical but the talcum powder dusting seems to help even dirty meatal. Since you are using a bootom pour furnace, dirty metal should not be as much of an issue as most contaimates rise to the top. Be sure to keep your furnace almost full. I dast a lot and always keep metal within 1" of the top of the pot.