I have built a few trotlines for some guys with the plastic beads and barrel swivels. I actually use that set up for what we call double hook throw lines. Main line about 15 ft to 20 ft with 2 hooks and weighted on bottom. I place one hook about 3 ft off bottom and the other hook about 4 ft from the top. Then tie it to a good green tree limb or young tree against the bank. Works great for yellow cats on the river.
I never used the floating line. How does that work for you? Oh, most of the time I use those trotline brass brads instead of the plastic beads. For me they are easier to find then the beads. You know I figure making your own trotlines is becoming a lost art. But with the hand made ones you seem to get better quality trotlines. I like to set them in the spring and summer, but like I said before, I'm using jug lines more and more the older I get.
Good idea about using the cheap hooks. Those big hooks we use get expensive.
It's not just the cost of the hooks. I fish out of a 10' jonboat. If one of those 7/0 saltwater hooks gets snagged, my boat doesn't have enough power or floatation to straighten it out. So the whole trotline is in jeopardy.
Similarly, those 5 gallon buckets of cement are hard to pull up. It's not my muscles, but the limitations of the boat. (It also makes for an interesting challenge getting them across the lake at times.)
I use floats on my trotlines, because the floating part only works to set it out. I also use very long lead lines from the main weights. The first swivel contains a drop weight, (like a brick), a float, (like a soda jug), and the tag. Using a soda jug, you can add water to the jug , to reduce buoyancy. The dropline weights and jugs simply establish the height of the trotlines off the bottom.
I don't have anything above water, but relocate the trotline by triangulation and snagging.
