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Battery Guru #11805113 08/30/16 11:32 PM
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crankbait 1 Offline OP
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Sorrry this is a long thread I know this topic has been beat in the ground but i have a question hopefully someone knowable in battery conditioning/cells can answer I have a Sears PM31 cranking battery which they stop making it will be 3 years old this NOV which it's still under warrenty I have everything in my boat running off this battery such as HDS 12 HDS 5 power pole hydro wave live wells small bubbler system It did well for a 1 1/2 then i started getting a low voltage alarm on Depth finders but evrything work fine until our last tour a month ago i had to run the arreators most of the day by the end of tour the motor barley did crank Came home put it on charge and went out last saturday for 5 hours only ran HDS 12 & 5 got ready to leave and it barley woulkd turn motor over. Took it to sears for warrenty coverage and as my luck goes it passed the load test the young man tried 3 differnt voltage test and it still showed good he kept it and will charge it and re check tomorrow he cannot honor the warrent if the machine does not say the battery is bad He is trying to help. So my delima is even if the battery showes good on there test Do i trust it or should i get a new size 31 battery i really dont want to put it back in and it do the same thing that sucker is heavy. Any reason that it would drain to the point of not wanting to start motor then pass all test?

Last edited by crankbait 1; 08/30/16 11:33 PM.
Re: Battery Guru [Re: crankbait 1] #11805175 08/31/16 12:30 AM
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HItec Redneck Offline
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I would not put that battery back in my boat. You would have much better capacity and peace of mind replacing it with the 31 series. I don't run any electronics off my cranking battery I run it all off one of the trolling motor batteries. When I hit the key I want the motor to start.

Re: Battery Guru [Re: crankbait 1] #11805235 08/31/16 01:16 AM
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bronco71 Online Content
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I would get a new battery and carry both in the boat with a set of jumper cables, run off the old one till is is dead and use it for warranty on another new one later.


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Re: Battery Guru [Re: crankbait 1] #11805398 08/31/16 02:44 AM
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Tallgrass05 Offline
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Buy a new battery. I've had car batteries pass the test at the auto parts store and die the next day.

Re: Battery Guru [Re: Tallgrass05] #11805785 08/31/16 01:09 PM
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GarySHO Offline
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Originally Posted By: Tallgrass05
Buy a new battery. I've had car batteries pass the test at the auto parts store and die the next day.
I can't believe I am saying this...I agree with TG bolt


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Re: Battery Guru [Re: crankbait 1] #11805834 08/31/16 01:31 PM
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dimitri Offline
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take it to autozone or walmart to be tested and if it fails get a printout to present to sears as proof its bad. i had to do this once myself. i just replaced a 8 yr old pm1 that was still good. i just didnt want to chance it any longer. crazy as it sounds its still in my boat storage as I wouldn't use it as a core on my new one.


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Re: Battery Guru [Re: crankbait 1] #11805959 08/31/16 02:32 PM
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scott01 Offline
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Ah yes, the dad battery bug. I've replaced all 3 of my batteries in the past month. They seemed to work fine in late July when I was out with the family chasing sand bass. Granted, it did seem like the trolling motor batteries lost more power than usual after only a couple of hours use. Worked several more times till about 3 weeks ago. Dropped the trolling motor in the water and nothing. Came home a tested them and only 4 volts on one and 10 on the other. I hook them up to my battery charger every time I get home from the lake and leave them on till the LED indicators turn green. Then I turn them back on the night before I go out and recheck them before hitching up the truck. So, I replaced those 2. This past Sunday I went to the lake, unstrapped the boat, backed it into the water and the engine would barely turn over. Trim worked but slow. The LEDs were showing green when I left the house but apparently a bad cell and couldn't handle a load. Anyway, replaced that one and all is good again. That was a group 24 battery and was about 6 yrs old, maybe even 7 so it was time. I replaced it with another group 24 STARTING BATTERY, not a starting/deep cycle. The combo ones don't have nearly the cranking amps (maybe 425-475) as a true starting battery (this one is 1,000). I do run my electronics and aerators off the starting batter though. Can't say they have ever caused my battery to drain where the engine wouldn't start but I can also see moving those to a trolling battery.

Re: Battery Guru [Re: crankbait 1] #11808116 09/01/16 07:34 PM
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ChampionDon (SkeeterDon) Offline
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Well I seem to have found the right thread. I bought a sears PM1 group 21 in May of last year, now it will not hold a charge


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Re: Battery Guru [Re: crankbait 1] #11809006 09/02/16 12:47 PM
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crankbait 1 Offline OP
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Update on my Sears PM1 Group 31 battery. After the young man did 3 different test on the battery and each machine showed good he ask me to leave it with him and he would put it on charger and see if it holds a charge even thou it was fully charged when I brought it to him. I left it and went back the next day after work, he said he battery would not hold a 100% charge just sitting there it would drain down below 11V within an hour so he honored my warranty and gave me another Group 31 battery could not get same battery due to they don't make it anymore or at least not around here. I have to say the young man went above and beyond to help me very good customer service and a very nice polite young man his parents raised him the right way not something you see everyday.

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