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Max Online: 36273 @ 01/23/13 02:34 PM
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#11482556 - 03/16/16 10:05 PM Can't get air out of lines bleeding surge brakes
squib Online   content
Pro Angler

Registered: 01/03/03
Posts: 992
Loc: Lubbock, TX
Brought home a 2003 Ranger with surge brakes that were not working and clunking at stop and start. Filled the master cylinder, went to brake farthest from actuator, opened bleeder valve and attached fitting for a small vacuum hand pump. Over the course of an hour sucked about 16 ounces of rusty looking brake fluid through the system but I constantly got more bubbles than fluid. Was confused, so moved over to the other side of the axle (closer to the actuator) and tried to bleed there. Never got any fluid there--only air.

Very confused now. I don't see any leaks but I must have one somewhere. Any idea where to start to find this leak? I assume I am getting air in the lines from somewhere. Please help me.

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#11482644 - 03/16/16 10:57 PM Re: Can't get air out of lines bleeding surge brakes [Re: squib]
Delbert Offline
Outdoorsman

Registered: 12/10/11
Posts: 49
Loc: Taylor Tx
My opinion you bleed the closest side first make sure the master cylinder stays full close the bleeder before letting off the vacuum pump. Hopefully this helps. Most likely you may need a new master cylinder.

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#11482686 - 03/16/16 11:27 PM Re: Can't get air out of lines bleeding surge brakes [Re: squib]
Delbert Offline
Outdoorsman

Registered: 12/10/11
Posts: 49
Loc: Taylor Tx
Another trick is to raise the nose of the trailer high let the axle hang lower if possible the caliper gas to be lower than the master cylinder. Open the closest bleeder and let it gravity flow seal then do other caliper.

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#11482788 - 03/17/16 04:46 AM Re: Can't get air out of lines bleeding surge brakes [Re: squib]
squib Online   content
Pro Angler

Registered: 01/03/03
Posts: 992
Loc: Lubbock, TX
Thanks Delbert. I didnt know you get air in the lines from the master cylinder if it was bad. I think I will disconnect the line at the master cylinder and then place that line in a bottle of brake fluid. I should then be able to vacuum to the the bleeder valves. If I can get steady fluid and no air to the bleeders on that set-up, I should then know if my leak is coming from my MC. Right??

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#11482921 - 03/17/16 07:50 AM Re: Can't get air out of lines bleeding surge brakes [Re: squib]
gary purdy Online   content
TFF Guru

Registered: 05/24/03
Posts: 10528
Loc: Littlefield Tx & Lake A. H. US...
That brake system will need complete replacement because of all of the rust will never let the brakes work correct.
_________________________
“The world will not be destroyed by those who do evil, but by those who watch them without doing anything” GOD IS GOOD

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#11483307 - 03/17/16 10:16 AM Re: Can't get air out of lines bleeding surge brakes [Re: squib]
Rubberdown Offline
Outdoorsman

Registered: 05/17/15
Posts: 144
Loc: Houston, Tx
Sometimes the bleeder fitting will suck air and give you bubbles if you do a vacuum bleeder. Sometimes the hose on the bleeder fitting will not be 100 percent sealed and suck bubbles. Also, the fluid always looks crappy as it is.... however old. I just recently went through this with my ranger trailer when I replaced the front actuator. I am super ghetto so take this with a grain of salt. My bleed method was pump the actuator several times with a screw driver, and then i put a bungee cord on the screwdriver to keep the actuator.... actuated? Then I went to the back and opened the bleeder and let fluid spray until the fluid stream slowed down, then shut the bleeder. Then start over. Did this about 10 times a side, all of the old crappy fluid came out and it was flowing clean. Start on the furthest side first. Had no issues, took maybe 30 minutes from getting the new actuator bolted on till the brakes worked. The clunk was driving me insane so I had to fix it.

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