I've got a 1542 war eagle that I ripped all the wire out. I'm looking for the best way to re wire it. My accessories are led spot light of front 2 led light strip nav lights deph finder and trolling motor. I only have one battery in the boat now. I plan on wiring up a switch panel and trying to figure out the best way to do it with out having to run everything straight to battery. I was think one main hot wire to panel with a 20amp fuse at the battery,and jumping it to each switch. Now for the negative can I just run it and tie into each accessories so I only have one line or do I need to run a bus bar?

I personally would use a marine fuse block like most boats come factory with.Just do a google search. Did you remove your fuse panel too?

Be sure to use marine grade wire, not auto-store wire. I agree on using a fuse block also. Blue Sea has some that include terminals for GND connections.

Boat had no fuses it was all wired straight to boat reason I ripped all the wire out. I order the 12 circuit fuse block by blue sea with neg bus bar. Also order all marine connectors and tin cooper wire from a marine store. Gonna run 10gauge wire from battery to fuse block which is gonna be mounted about 8 inches from battery on the inside O'Conner of transome. From there I will be running 14gauge to my switch panel and then 14 gauge to accessories all with a inline fuse.

I'm not familiar at all with your boat.Does it have a drivers console with steering, gauges, ignition swich, etc?
If it does why wouldn't you mount your fuse panel under the console? My transom on my bass boat is enclosed and exposed to moisture from the bilge. If your boat takes on water it's in the back of the transom. Also if you mount your fuse panel closer to your controls you won't have to use as much wire. I've only had my 97 Nitro. Not sure where other manufacturers put there fuse panels.

Agree in the transom is not a friendly place to mount a fuse block

Why are you planning inline fuses if you have a 12 circuit fuse-block in the wiring plan? It's rare that boats need many more than 12 circuits. The purpose of the fuse-block is to avoid having a mass of inline fuses. If the 12 fuse block isn't sufficient, then pick & choose what excess ends up with an inline fuse. Power for an inline fuse can be tapped from the feed-in of the fuse block (where you put the red #10 wire).

Glad to hear you made excellent choices in materials. It will pay off in longevity and lack of issues.

It's a aluminum duck boat with open floor plan and tiller steer so no Console. It's not actually gonna be on the transome it's gonna be adjacent to it so that I'm able to run the wires on the gunnel it has a spot where i can run the wires and put a rubber stripping and you can't see the wires ar all. It's the only place to put it. My switch panel is gonna be maybe 3 ft from the switch panel

Sounds like you got it handled. I'm sure it's going to come out super!

Once a dedicated circuit is fused at the fuse block, there is no need for an inline fuse further down the wire. The fuse in the fuse block protects the entire circuit down-current.

Good to know makes it easier for me. Now for my last question can i run just one negative to the switch panel from the bus bar daisy chain it with a spliter and run the accessories neg wire to it. Or do I need to run ever accessories neg wire to the bus bar?