Here are some notes I gathered from when I was starting out...
83kHz: Great for analyzing structure or cover-wider areas
- Use on console unit - Wide Cone Angle
200kHz: Best for target separation once you have found fish.
- Excellent for bow units - Catching vertical fish - Has a narrower cone angle
Sensitivity- 100% and then back off until clear Ping speed-100% Chart Speed-speed up on console and slow down on bow Depth range- auto or maximum depth your fishing will be better Fish ID-off
- 4-6 mph to get a true reading - Surface Clarity-Turn up traduce surface noise - Noise Rejection-On - Sensitivity- Make adjustments based on fishing conditions - Range- Try to keep between 35-60’. The higher you go, the more details you miss. - Contrast- Adjust to current conditions. Softer bottoms need more contrast. - Frequencies- 455kHz is best for searching large areas and deeper water. 800kHz is best for definition and shallower water. Find the fish on 455 and then switch to 800 to see fine details. - Fish cast shadow. Small stumps won’t.
It can be hard at times on different lakes and water clarity. My screen looks like the picture in your other link 90% of the time on Fork if I am on 200kHz in deeper water (you will want to switch back to 83kHz if in shallower water though). I will have to adjust the sensitivity a little from time to time. Most of the time, noise rejection and surface clarity need to be on low or off. The hardest time for me to get a "clean" screen is when the lake is turning over.