Here is a photo of a console on a 2004 G3 hp180. I just bought such a boat. My question is how can I get a replacement insert made if I wanted to eliminate the tach and speedo, relocate small gauges to bottom locations and then install a side scan in the console?

Would you have something made from carbon fiber or aluminum? Any ideas and cost estimates would be greatly appreciated

G3 consoles are not as durable as they need to be for big waves and heavy graphs. I always recommend people to use ram mounts with fender washers and locking nuts

I understand. Im thinking will require reinforcing which ever way I go. I don't think the plastic console is very strong either. So if I'm gonna have to customize it, it might as well be in the dash is my thinking.

And for what it's worth, I have a 898 si I want to use. I have no clue if this is relatively simple or a crazy idea

Congrats on your boat.
Lexan, Carbon fiber, and Acrylic/ABS seem to be popular choices.

This guy has a three part video on youtube using ABS

Yes sir. I was referring to ram mounting on the side gunnel. I would use a piece of 3/16" aluminum plate with 3/16"x2" strap for backing. That graph is on the light side. Should be fine. Bolt the gimble bracket to the plate.

I plan to make my next insert out of this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JPHT...ailpage_o04_s00

It might be over kill but I will be hanging two graphs from it.

HDPE is very strong and resists stress cracking. It's also cheap and easy to work with.
Aluminum is a good choice but it needs to be aircraft grade (hardened). Its a little more difficult to work with and tougher on tools.
Carbon fiber is good but is expensive. It is very strong and very light. Probably need at least a 3mm thick panel, 4mm even better. It is easy on tools and easy to shape and looks cool.
Acrylic is not good for this application. It is brittle and can shatter.
ABS is OK. It can develop stress cracks over time and fail with heavy loads. It has a low melting temp so low rpm tools to get the best results but it also means you can shape it somewhat with a heat gun.
Lexan is a good product but more expensive than other alternatives.

That thing looks sweet!

I built a mount out of 1" thick acrylic (Plexiglass) to mount two Helix 7 units on the side of my console. It seems really strong. And absolutely flex free. The factory brackets are by far the weak link. I did that yesterday. Today, I think, I will get our metal fab guy at work to make me something out of aluminum. He welds. I glue and screw. Haha. I agree that acrylic ages and becomes brittle. The thicker stuff not so much, but it still does. I also made a very low profile mount for the bow units. This was done from steel and I had it powder coated yesterday. Will see how it works. As for flush mounting? Easy enough. Cut an opening that is very close in size, tape up the graph with good masking tape, insert it into the rough opening. After its in, fill the gaps with body filler. Remove the graph (the bondo will not stick to the tape, making it easy. When removed, it will leave a perfect opening for the graph. Then just sand the panel to the desired texture and paint. I do this all the time with iPads in cars.

This guy did a great job with fiberglass

don't think anyone caught this but no way and I mean no way I would do away with the tach as this is one of the most important parts of your motor

I would leave the dash like it is and use a ram mount also but what you want can be done with either a graphite, Lexan or aluminum panel. It wouldn't be too hard to do .

Get the ram mount, you'll be glad you did.

Welcome back to boat ownership KD

That's what I've decided to do. I'm gonna buy a hpde cutting board and make a top and bottom backing to reinforce the plastic console. Then mount the ram through that. I just don't want to deal with the flex of a plastic console that's already bee drilled through previously.

Thanks for all the input

Thanks delvec...

Break out another thousand